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2003 V Star 1100 Classic, Bluish-Silver
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bike died the other day. Charged up the battery and it is fine according to my tests and the local auto parts store.

The battery is reading only 12.4ish volts at idle and only 12.7ish at 5000 rpm. Checked the stator's resistance with cold engine. Resistance between 1&2 and 1&3 is in spec according to the manual. The manual doesn't say to take a reading between 2&3.
None of the 3 are shorted. I felt good at this point.

I preformed the stator test described in the PDF linked to on the wKB. The voltage between 1&2 and between 1&3 is [email protected] 90ish volts at only 3500rpm! The voltage between 2&3 is only 8ish volts at 3500rpm.

What does this mean? Is the stator bad?
 

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replace the stator, at 5k rpm you should be close to 14 volts
 

Super Moderator "Loose Nut" - Houston, Texas
2001 Vstar 1100 Classic (sold), 2006 HD Electra Glide Ultra Classic
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Double check your readings. If you get the same, stator is bad.
 

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2003 V Star 1100 Classic, Bluish-Silver
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks. I'm 100% on the readings. I'm confused because my bike passed the tests the Yamaha shop manual and the Hayne's manual said to do. The one non-official test on the wKB, my bike failed. Hope you can see what I'm sayin. where should I put my confidence and cash. This is an expensive repair, so please confirm.

I'm unfamiliar with what the patterns of failure for the stator would be. I know not enough voltage to the regulator woul90d be a symptom. But 1-to-2 and 1-to-3 were 90+volts at only 3500rpm. 2-3 were only different. Is the fact that they weren't all similar enough to determine the stator is the culprit? Or their magnitude of difference?
 

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That and the final voltage at the battery.
Also look at Rick's electric, better price and better quality then OEM from dealer. They use thicker windings then OEM.
 

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2003 RS Warrior S*2-1-2(G2). -AIS. VBAK/K&N(RC1290). CobraCVT. Ivans. SR-2. DC2-1.
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Sometimes it's confusing to determine if there is a degraded stator or a fatigued regulator-rectifier. But most of the time it ends up being just corroded plugs in between. In rare cases the stator-rotor air gap is dirty or incorrect.

The service manual will mention test temperatures. You can be off a bit with little worry. Since it's summer, temperature is not likely an issue effecting test results.

Don't worry about 2-3 test it's not helpful.

Stator 1-2 and 1-3 should be closely balanced. As you know, they are measured in ohms of resistance. 68F ohms 0.36 to 0.44 ohms. Page 7-25. Voltage tests are irrelevant / misleading.

Except for those 3 white stator leads (whose voltage is irrelevant beyond 14v) which are of course positioned before the voltage regulator-rectifier, your entire system should read 11.8 to 14.0 volts give or take. Exception is the 5v sensor array (start circuit cutoff relay, pickup coil, etc).

From your post you tested these areas and observed all to be within spec. If this is accurate then I would not suspect the stator.

Unplug the regulator-rectifier and gently clean all contact points and inspect wires for breaks and for integrity of the wire insulation.

Run a parasitic drain battery test.

Hope this helps.
 

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2003 V Star 1100 Classic, Bluish-Silver
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Super helpful replies, guys! Thank you! I'm very electrically uneducated and definitely not comfortable around this stuff yet.

I've already done a leakage test, and there is none.

This is going to sound dumb: ArizonaWarrior - what do you mean by "your entire system should read 11.8 to 14.0 volts give or take"? Does this mean that all circuits, except for the 5v sensor array, will have that voltage range flowing through them? You mentioned that I tested these areas. Is that what I was testing when I preformed the output test at the battery?

Okay. I'll now check all of the charging system's wiring and connections and clean contacts.
 

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2003 V Star 1100 Classic, Bluish-Silver
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Turns out the problem was a connection issue. The molex plug at the stator to wiring harness connection was a bit melted. I cut off the casing and cleaned and reconnected the male and female ends with some dielectric grease, tightened up the female ends a bit, and then heatshrinked all three. I cleaned all other connections and checked for proper resistance and shorts in the rest of the system. I also checked the diodes in the regulator/rectifier and they were fine. Fired it up with the mufflers off and was now getting ~13.5v. Poop. A bit better but not good enough. Also, when I'd rev it up the voltage would go down. I went to bed.

Today, I realized there was one connection I didn't clean off. The big positive and negative leads at the main fuse. Cleaned them off and fired it up. Now I'm getting 13.9 - 14.1v at idle and revved it to 4000 rpm and was getting like 14.3v. Sweet!

Thanks again for the helpful replies! Hopefully this thread will help someone else someday.
 

Super Moderator "Loose Nut" - Houston, Texas
2001 Vstar 1100 Classic (sold), 2006 HD Electra Glide Ultra Classic
Joined
11,819 Posts
Glad you got it going, GOOD JOB!!
 
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