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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Anyone try the Kuryakyn clutch lever for the V Star 650. It claims to be "more comfortable."

I'm wondering if the distance between the grip and lever is reduced. I'm having all the same issues with the clutch lever that everyone else posts about. I thought I had the hang off it, but I bought some real leather motorcycle gloves and once my hand gets sweaty the gloves start restricting me from smoothly releasing the lever all the way out of the friction zone.

I've played around with the tension, but the already annoying floppiness at the end gets way worse. I ordered one of those spring from the guy on ebay last night. I'm looking for anything else that will help. I'd order the clever if it was available for the custom furniture.

Note: I finally found a clear picture of the exact model instead of the stock pic that is not even for the V Stars. I printed it out and compared it to the one on my bike. It does look like the drop in the bend is longer and the lever would sit closer to the grip.
 

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The Clevver is available for the V Star Custom. You just have to buy the kit with the housing for $70. The Kuryakyn is still going to cost you $45 and is only "more comfortable" because of it's shape. It doesn't change the pull distance.

Just scroll to the bottom of the page to see the package for the custom: http://www.theclevver.com/

Also, I prefer non-leather gloves. They never get sweaty, and even if they did get soaking wet they don't restrict movement. These are the ones I go with: http://www.cortechperformance.com/product/Gloves/DX_2_Glove/345/29
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The Clevver is available for the V Star Custom. You just have to buy the kit with the housing for $70. The Kuryakyn is still going to cost you $45 and is only "more comfortable" because of it's shape. It doesn't change the pull distance.

Just scroll to the bottom of the page to see the package for the custom: http://www.theclevver.com/

Also, I prefer non-leather gloves. They never get sweaty, and even if they did get soaking wet they don't restrict movement. These are the ones I go with: http://www.cortechperformance.com/product/Gloves/DX_2_Glove/345/29

Yeah, I've seen that. I didn't want to replace the whole housing and have two levers that don't match.

Also the small frcition zone issue isn't what I'm looking at these Kuryakan levers to help with. What I'm wondering about is if the Kuryakan clutch lever is closer to the grip when fully disengaged. With leather gloves on it is hard to release the damn lever all the way in a nice smooth manner.

I know I have found a few posts on the net about women who physically could not use the V Star clutch levers at all because their hands were too small. Some people have bent the levers, or cut and welded them to close some of the space between the grip and the lever.
 

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Seldom use the clutch

I use the clutch to start and stop, I use bump shift and my ear when I ride, up shifting and downshifting. I also have Barnett clutch springs that are quite a bit stronger than OEM.
Once upon a long, long time ago, I raced flat track and scrambles and every shift was bump shift and ear.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I use the clutch to start and stop, I use bump shift and my ear when I ride, up shifting and downshifting. I also have Barnett clutch springs that are quite a bit stronger than OEM.
Once upon a long, long time ago, I raced flat track and scrambles and every shift was bump shift and ear.
What do you mean by "bump shift?"
 

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Guess it just depends on the bike. My Roadstar clutch tension is pretty severe due to the torque it counteracts. Not shifting too many gears on that without using the clutch.

I'm pretty partial to my clutch when taking off from a stop too :p
 

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I have a set of them with skulls on the end's and they are about the same as OEM but chrome. I also have a stock lever that has been bent some what to give you about 1" closer to the hand grip.
GOPR1038.jpg

GOPR1044.jpg
PM if you like.
 

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What do you mean by "bump shift?"
Got about 5 decades of riding, never called it bump shift. But if you wont to try this it will not damage the gear box at all. The gearbox is in constant mesh. To up shift from 1st too 2nd, put up pressure to your shifter and at the point that you would shift to 2nd let of the throttle off and back on it fast and it will shift to 2nd no clutch. Let off the pressure to reset it and back on with the pressure for the next
shift.. But I would never down shift as you need to know your bike very, very, good but the up shift is EZ and every body can do it that is if you wont to.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got about 5 decades of riding, never called it bump shift. But if you wont to try this it will not damage the gear box at all. The gearbox is in constant mesh. To up shift from 1st too 2nd, put up pressure to your shifter and at the point that you would shift to 2nd let of the throttle off and back on it fast and it will shift to 2nd no clutch. Let off the pressure to reset it and back on with the pressure for the next
shift.. But I would never down shift as you need to know your bike very, very, good but the up shift is EZ and every body can do it that is if you wont to.
I'm still learning to shift smoothly. I've actually upshifted the way you describe a couple times by accident.
 
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