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Discussion Starter #1
just wondering.

the wife a has pipe on her 950, and it POPS bad, a lean decel pop.

and it's HOT.

so i need to get her an air cleaner, and a tuner,

is there a cheap package, or where to find used?

i have not seen a PC3/power commander for the 950.


will an IED in the O2 do anything on a Yammie?

http://www.nightrider.com/parts/

approximates richer fuel mixtures to quickly and simply improve the closed loop fuel mixture on your Buell. The Buell ViED can alter the AFR from approximately 14.4 to 13.6. This results in cooler exhaust temperatures. Recommended for stock bikes and those with upgraded exhaust or intake
 

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Haven't seen the wiring diagram for the 950, but if the injection system is anything like a car it's easy to fool. Find the OAT (Outside Air Temp) sensor(usually in the air box or inlet air path), remove and freeze. Measure the sensors resistance when frozen and replace with a resistor of the same or slightly lower value. This tricks the computer into believing its colder and from it's internal map will respond with a richer mixture. Side effect it'll put more zip in your zap, at the cost of some fuel economy. This is what all those $20-30 power increasers on E-bay are.
 

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If it's popping on decel look at plugging off the AIS system - PCV/III can't hurt either since you've made and are planning more intake/exhaust changes.
 

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You do not have to have a PCIII or V dyno tuned. You can download the same type of generic map as what the Corbra piece does but you retain the option to have a unit that thousands of shops know how to tune if you want to go that route.
Each bike is a little different and there is a HUGE difference between generic maps you get from these piggy-back unit makers and what a proper dyno tuner can do.
PowerCommander will do anything that the FI2000 will do and quite a bit more.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If it's popping on decel look at plugging off the AIS system - PCV/III can't hurt either since you've made and are planning more intake/exhaust changes.
i am very familiar with the PC3/5 and have massaged my own maps before.

i think the Cobra just has several screws to set the mixture at diff RPM ranges, i had one on my V-rod, and played with it alot, dyno'ed ~109hp at the wheel.

i don't think a PC3 is worth ~$100 more, she only has ~1000 miles on it.

i will scope out ebay for used PC3 :)

the cobra is $185 shipped on fleabay.
 

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If you want to get the most out of your mods it's worth $100 or so. If you just want to sort richen her up a bit so it does not run hot and pop like a pig the cobra is probably fine.

To me if its worth doing its worth doing right. My R1 turns 168.3hp at the wheel with a PCIII, a proper dyno tune and safe A/F ratios. It "only" did 163.1 on a slightly tweeked generic tune (for my mods). The biggest thing was that we picked up close to 19hp in the meat of the powerband from the generic map. Was that worth it? I sure think so.
 

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PC5 can run in open loop and continuously tune the bike unlike pretty much anything else in or near its price range. You set the target A/F R and off she goes - probably a bit of overkill for a cruiser but hey technology is great :cool:
PCIII is a bit simpler in that it does not pay any attention to O2 readings at all, just runs its own (or your modified) A/F maps.

So far as your AIS question - it does have an AIS system so it will contribute to popping on decel. If you ever go to dyno the bike it has to be blocked off in order to get a correct A/F reading. Not sure if anyone makes a kit to block it off on the 950 yet but it should not be too difficult to redneck engineer :D

Getting a proper tune is not only about picking up HP/Tq - it also does quite a bit for general "drivability" of the bike. If you've had yours done you most liekly noticed that it not only pulls better but likely runs smoother across the range.

Biggest thing is that I managed to type all of that up without a signle HD joke... :eek:

Here's a PCV for $270 - he does not show the one for a V-Star but I'm sure he can get it for you: https://www.motomummy.com/store/product.php?productid=17623&cat=0&page=1 - he also ships everything free.
Ask for Corey, tell him "Madski" for the R1 Forum sent ya :)
 

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If you want to get the most out of your mods it's worth $100 or so. If you just want to sort richen her up a bit so it does not run hot and pop like a pig the cobra is probably fine.
that's an over-simplified explanation of the Cobra Fi2000. they make one that incorporates an exhaust system with or without an O2 sensor. since the 950 has an O2 sensor, it adjusts fuel settings based on O2 readings as you're riding. you can tune the unit to how much fuel you want to feed your bike during cruising, acceleration, and under load RPMs. or you can just install it out of the box w/o changing anything since Cobra already sets it to specifications based on your particular bike model. tuning is easy, just turning one of 3 screws for the setting you want to adjust.

the 950 is set to a lean mixture from the factory meaning it is not getting enough fuel as it could meaning it is not getting enough power as it could. not getting as much fuel also means it runs hotter than it should. since you want your bike to run cooler, you don't need the expensive choice to help with that. anything that will provide more fuel to the air/fuel mixture will help it run cooler and help with popping on deceleration.

if you're looking for a cheaper solution, you definitely don't want the power commander
 

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Actually it's not an oversimplification. Unless you know that the 950 has a wide band O2 sensor it does not matter anyway. Narrow band sensors like the type Yamaha uses on pretty much everything (at least all of their sport bike where you think it would actually be far more important) can only send signal when the bike is above or below a single target value. This is typically why they only really run in closed-loop when at idle or at low & constant throttle application - a custom built system to pass EPA requirements. Typically this would be the "magical" 14.7 A/F ratio or close to it. This unfortunately is not good for performance.
Once you get outside of that very narrow set of applications the ECU no longer uses O2 info. The ECU's A/F target is also lower at anything other than start up/idle and very low/constant throttle/rpms. Typically it's richer (like 13.1:1 or so) - but it's acting blind at that point anyway as to the actual A/F state as it is in the "under load" and acceleration adjustments you are talking about with the Corba, likely simply TPS/RPM readings. In fact you can pull your O2 sensor and the bike will run just fine.
This is why the Cobra has instructions telling you that the "closed-loop pot" will only effect idle and possibly cruising - it's the only time the ECU is running in closed-loop. For any other part of riding it runs home to its preset map. But unlike the PC you cannot in real time "paint" a detailed A/F curve with the Cobra which to me is well worth the $270 price (on-line) of the PCV. Both have a "set it and forget it option" but if you want to play around a bit the extra less than $100 buy you a whole hell of a lot more.
 

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:D PC3'd my FXSTB and had it dyno'd by an idiot. Took it to a dedicated tech who knew what he was doing and the map was an arrow straight 14.2 across the board. Plugs looked brand new after 5K mi. and the hog ran so sweetly it was a joy to behold. Do it right the first time or don't bother.
 
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