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Discussion Starter #1
Just bought a 03 1100 Silverado .. Bike ran last spring, won't stay cranked now, I am pretty sure I just need to get the bowls off and clean the needle valve... Anything else I should look for...
This is after I get a battery on it...I don't even know how many miles is on it, Bought it from a girl at work for $1000.00 ... Battery has zero juice so I am waiting for my new battery to come in today from Battery Mart... Will hook it up...
 

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Before you crank it over look inside the gas tank. One of the good things about 10% ethanol gas is it starts turning brown pretty quickly (within months) if it was not stabilized before the bike was stored. So you can just look at it with a flash light and see if its gone bad.

If the gas in not clear drain it out and flush the fuel lines. Also if the tank is empty look for rust.

The most common problem with carb'd bikes that were parked for a long time is someone starts them up with the old gas, thinking running it just a little bit wont make it any worse, and sucks the jello and goo from the bottom of the tank into the carbs. Then you need to take them apart and clean every port and passage.

If you drain the old fuel out of the tank and fuel lines, and put Seafoam or another carb cleaner in with the fresh gas, you can at least start the bike up and see how it runs, and you wont make it any worse. Sometimes thats all you need, and after running a full tank with Seafoam the bike will run fine.

The most important thing to watch out for if you do this: when you turn the key on and energize the fuel pump (these carb'd bikes do have a fuel pump) check the overflow tube to make sure you dont have a float stuck open overflowing the carb. Its easy to see, it will spew gas all over the top of the engine case (I think on the right side on an 1100).
 

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Dont drink the SeaFoam, it will not clear your head like it clears your carbs.

I just finish a bottle of 1792 bourbon in June, and a few days later their storage warehouse collapsed, and most their barrels of whiskey were destroyed.

I ran out and bought another bottle the next day, figuring that might be the end of the company.

It is a pretty common problem for people up north that only ride half a year. A lot of people park their bike thinking the season is not over, the snow sets in, and... next spring the gas tank is full of jello at the bottom. $2 worth the Seafoam will avoid a $300 carb cleaning.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No winterizing here in Eastern NC... I rode this past weekend in a Toys for tots...it was a bit chilly but tolerable.

I just bought a bottle of Col. EH Taylor small batch... Pricey but good... 1792 is good, I've had it a few times...
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Well I got the tank off and rinsed out, it was nasty... shot seafoam in the system with a 60 cc syringe, re installed, installed new battery, cranks but won’t stay cranked...smoked like a mother...won’t run very long, will leave the fresh gas with sea foam in it for a few days while I have the wheels off... those cobra pipes are way loud... might look at trading or finding something quieter...any suggestions appreciated...
 

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smoke is blue from burning oil or did it have that old car rich gas smell?
 

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The older formula for Seafoam use to have a little different directions and reaction when used. Used in carb'd cars/trucks...you would slowly feed about half the can in, then dump the rest in to smother the car out, let sit about 30 min, then fire it up and watch it smoke like a train for about 5-10 minutes. The newer formula doesn't usually have the same noticeable affect. Directly injecting in to the carb with no gas sounds like it is having pretty much that affect. I'm putting money on it starting to act right after the Seafoam gets diluted down or burned out of the carbs. Without looking at the can, I think it lists Petroleum Distillate as the ingredient...which is pretty much kerosene in this case if I remember right. Feel free to correct me if I am wrong if any one knows for sure.
 

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Here's page 3 of Seafoam's SDS.



And the official instructions.



I read all the fine print and didn't mention KCW's commission percent of sales, I'm sure that's a trade secret also. Sorry KCW, just making a joke, but you are 100% correct on how well it works.
 

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The older formula for Seafoam use to have a little different directions and reaction when used. Used in carb'd cars/trucks...you would slowly feed about half the can in, then dump the rest in to smother the car out, let sit about 30 min, then fire it up and watch it smoke like a train for about 5-10 minutes.
This is how I use marvel mystery oil. Do it on my lawnmower from time to time. Used seafoam on my car, but I haven't been able to tell any difference (maybe I didn't need to clean it in the first place).
MMO has always worked good for me, but I generally turn to it when things are bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I think this bike sat just a bit too long....i will try this seafoam for a while, if it doesn’t run smooth I am taking it to a shop to let them do it correctly.
 

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It sounds like you dont have the bike on the road yet.

Carb cleaners work by flushing the fuel thru the jets and passages while the bike is running. Letting it soak in the carbs helps a little, but the amount of cleaner in contact with the goop or varnish on the surface of the jets is nearly nothing compared to when the bike is running.

If I remember correctly there are three paths thru the carbs when the engine is running, based on throttle position. When the bike is idling nothing is flowing thru the main jets, the Pilot Main passage kicks in somewhere in between.

To get the best cleaning effect you need to ride the bike, and that includes spurts with the throttle WFO, going up a steep hill if possible. If the bike will run at all Seafoam will do its job.

If you cant get the bike to start, or if it will not make it around the block, then you need to take the carbs apart and have at the jets and ports with piano wire. When the jets are fully plugged nothing can flush thru them but steel wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It runs, and I was able to get it some RPM's some but only7 1 time, I will let it sit a couple days until I can get the wheels back on after I get the new rubber mounted...Then I migh take it somewhere to have the carbs cleaned properly... I might let the Yamaha dealer mess with it because I know it will be done right..It's for my wife so I want it right.
 

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There are many good videos out there on Carb cleaning. Watch several videos multiple times. Do one Carb at a time. Down load expanded carb view. Take pictures of each part before you take it off. Work on white towel, if small part falls it easy to see on white. Carb cleaner on metal parts only. Take you pictures you took when you dissembled and work backwards. You will probably mess up the bowl screw heads so be prepared to get new ones, any hardware store will have. You don't need Carb kits, just two new gaskets. Might take a few hours there first time, take it slow. All jets must be 100 clean. Don't forget the small holes in side of pilot jets. Leave the floats along, can be challenging to get adjusted right. Keep us informed.



Good info link: https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1100kb/home/maintenance-repairs/carburetor
 

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Les has done this before! :^)

people have posted the Phillips head screws have a Japanese standard pitch to the point, if you use a screwdriver from Sears or Lowes it will strip out the head. This is something worth googling, you can get the right screwdriver bits and have at least a decent chance of getting them off intact.

Or maybe its easier to strip them out and get new screws.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for the tips, it was cheaper to Order 2 bottom kits that 2 o rings from the dealership...if I need something else I will order it from the dealership separately, I am in no hurry...we have to get through the holidays then a trip to Dominican Republic on the 12th for a week so I will be sipping fancy drinks while putting my plan together...I have watched 2 videos already..
I am not too worried.
 
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