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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry this turned out so long. Grab a good cup of coffee, tea or a beer before starting this novel.


2002 V-Star 1100 Classic. 28,000 miles

My issue is with the electrical system. Like many others on here, I was out for a ride and the cluster panels went crazy and soon after, the bike died on me with a dead battery. I ran all the ohm tests starting with the battery and when I got to the stator I found my wires and housing were melted. To me it seemed like the housing and wires have been that way for a while because of the dirt, oil and debris that were caked into what was left of the housing itself. So I replaced both the stator and rectifier.Soldered the wires together for best connection. Started the bike and hooked the tester up. While at idol it was reading 13.2 - 13.5 and when I revved it up it hit between 14.2 - 14.9 with one high spike of grater than 15 volts. I took it out for a 10 mile run and when I put it back on the tester it was no longer charging. Took my battery into two places to have it tested and both places told me that the battery is fine under the load test. Out of curiosity I put the old rectifier back on and it was charging again. I was getting 12.3 - 13+ on idol and no more than 14.2 at high revving. I ran it for a good 30 minutes today while checking the volts, and not once did the wires from the stator get hot, nor did it pass 14.2 volts on the test at high rev. I took it out for a 20 mile ride and when I got home - it was no longer charging again.

Also, before I replaced the stator and R/R the first time, I had a spell where the 10 amp fuse for the lights blew as soon as I turned the key to the on position, and in a matter of about 20 minutes I went through 5 fuses. I thought I tracked the issue down to my passing lights switch on the front of the bike. When I touched the switch the passing lights would go out, but no fuses blew when messing with it. I put a new switch to the lights and the fuses stopped blowing. It was at that time I took the bike out and 30 miles later all my problems with the bike started as far as the charging system.

For the life of me I cannot find anything on why the rectifier keeps blowing out other than high spikes in power being delivered to the R/R. I am trying to find out what would send or allow that to happen as the Stator is still good according to the ohm testing on each wire and then to the frame. I thought I read somewhere that a particular DIODE (if bad) would allow for this to happen, but I am not sure. Is there another problem that it could be and I am not thinking?

I would appreciate any help or directions you could possibly point me to. Again, I am sorry this turned out so long, I wanted to cover everything that I have done thus far, but I am sure I missed something..


UPDATE:

Today I fired the bike up and checked the charging on it just to see and it was charging again. Before i cranked it over it only had 12.1 volts, I have no parasitic draws from what I can measure with the multimeter. So now I am really at a loss here as to what it could be. It seems when the bike is at operating temps the R/R does not charge.

Any ideas where to go from here? Is there a DIODE I need to be looking at? Will a CDI unit cause this? I am itching to ride, but am afraid to take it more than 20 miles from the house because it may let me down again.

I hope this is the correct place to post this, if not please let me know and I will move it...
 

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Honestly, I'm a pretty good mechanic, but you're way over my pay grade here. If it were me, if be handing it off to the best pro I could find at this point... hopefully others can offer more constructive advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Casey for taking a look.

I have two service manuals and a new multimeter and am about to start testing all the wires, connections, CDI and diode on that bike as well as recheck the stator and R/R. I hope to find something in all the testing that is about to happen. First I think I need some beer. :D
 

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My suggestion - and I have been wrong before - is to start with the ground wires. Battery negative, negative cable to wherever it grounds on the engine or frame, grounding of the regulator/rectifier, and so on. Don't just eyeball the connections. At least loosen and retighten them, if you don't completely disconnect, clean, and reconnect them.Corrosion, old paint under what is supposed to be a metal-to-metal connection, whatever. The engine probably grounds to the frame via its mounting hardware, which can also develop problems.

Lotsa luck.
 

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If you bought an aftermarket reg/rec...do yourself a favor and go buy an OEM Yamaha one. I don't know of one single person that has had any luck keeping an aftermarket one alive for very long no matter what the brand. Best bet is to get one for an 05 Road Star..... it is heavier duty...but buy it direct from Yamaha...no aftermarket junk! The same is true with stators.....but it is such a rarity that one ever goes out that I'd rule out the stator just on those grounds...unless it is aftermarket...then it's a crap shoot.

Also, take your battery in and have it load tested. If you've had reg/rec issues....it may have damaged it.

https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1100kb/home/repairs/charging-system
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
@ Slick Mick

I have the OEM R/R back in the bike and it charges until the engine warms up and then quits charging. I did have the battery checked at two different places, Autozone and at O'riley's and both told me that under the load test the battery was fine, just needed recharged. Are these tests 100% accurate? Could the battery hold a charge and show good and not charge when it gets warmed up?

The Original Stator was shot per the manual testing specs. I did received the correct numbers when testing the three wires coming from it, but it also showed continuity from each wire to the frame and there was a parasitic draw from the battery. With the wires and housing being melted I figured there was a short in the stator and over charging the system. With the new one installed (DIY'er) I have no patristic draw and after re-testing last night all numbers are still within spec from wires 1 - 2, 1 - 3, 2 - 3 and then all three wires to ground with no continuity detected.

I am going through today and checking all the ground connections disconnect and clean the contact areas, just to rule out the ground connection possibility.

I looked at the R/R from Yamaha Parts House .com. Would the R/R for 2005 Yamaha ROAD STAR MIDNIGHT (XV17AMT) work? I am not sure what one I should be looking at or if it even matters. but for $108 not being to bad I will upgrade in a couple weeks. I just don't want to get it on and find that the bike still does the same thing, Quits charging after it warms up.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Nick 57.

I have No aftermarket accessories on my bike other than a tachometer on the handle bars. There was at one point the show/strobe lights under the frame, tank and fenders that I have taken off thinking it was part of the charging issue and disconnected the passing/day lights as well. I will hook the lights back up once things are back to normal. However I think I should add a resistor or a diode to that circuit just to be on the safe side.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My suggestion - and I have been wrong before - is to start with the ground wires. Battery negative, negative cable to wherever it grounds on the engine or frame, grounding of the regulator/rectifier, and so on. Don't just eyeball the connections. At least loosen and retighten them, if you don't completely disconnect, clean, and reconnect them.Corrosion, old paint under what is supposed to be a metal-to-metal connection, whatever. The engine probably grounds to the frame via its mounting hardware, which can also develop problems.

Lotsa luck.
I am doing that today. Just so I know for sure things are seated properly and I have the proper connections for the grounds.



Also, I want to thank everyone who has give great ideas and suggestions so far and in the future. Like I said I am at a loss here and will take any and all suggestions.
 

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NoMad-After the charging stops, while the bike is still running, have you checked the AC voltages coming from the stator windings? Just a guess, but with the other info already given, it's about all I can think of. When regulators blow, they generally stay blown, which is not your case. However, the stator input AC to the regulator is a different matter and could be a heat related problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
NoMad-After the charging stops, while the bike is still running, have you checked the AC voltages coming from the stator windings? Just a guess, but with the other info already given, it's about all I can think of. When regulators blow, they generally stay blown, which is not your case. However, the stator input AC to the regulator is a different matter and could be a heat related problem.
@Wavelength


No I have not checked the AC volts from the stator. I had to solder the wires where the stator plugged into the R/R as the housing was melted. I did not think I could get a reading accurately because of that. But as I was typing this I realized I could get a reading on the other end of the wires at the housing where it plugs into the R/R itself. I believe that part of the harness is a straight shot and will get a reading on it tomorrow. I do know with the old stator in it the 3 white wires would get hot. Really hot. I think this was because it was shorting to the engine. Through all my testing now, those wires do not get hot. Though, they do get a couple degrees warmer but not to the point you want to kick something because you touched it knowing it may burn you.

I ran it today after checking and cleaning the ground connections. The R/R got hot to the point I could not hold it in my hand more than a couple seconds. I am not sure, but I don't think it is suppose to get that hot, but I know they are going to heat up a bit.

Thanks for the suggestion and will try to get that reading tomorrow.
 

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NoMad, That sounds too hot for the regulator, I wouldn't run it like that for long. If it gets too hot to touch when bolted to the frame, that is definitely too much heat. Too much heat can be caused, as you know, by a bad battery or drawing too much current overall causing the regulator to charge maximum 100% of the time. You should be able to check each white stator wire to ground and read anywhere from 25-30vac to 45-50vdc or more depending on rpms. All three should read roughly the same at any rate.
 

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@ Slick Mick

I have the OEM R/R back in the bike and it charges until the engine warms up and then quits charging. I did have the battery checked at two different places, Autozone and at O'riley's and both told me that under the load test the battery was fine, just needed recharged. Are these tests 100% accurate? Could the battery hold a charge and show good and not charge when it gets warmed up?

The Original Stator was shot per the manual testing specs. I did received the correct numbers when testing the three wires coming from it, but it also showed continuity from each wire to the frame and there was a parasitic draw from the battery. With the wires and housing being melted I figured there was a short in the stator and over charging the system. With the new one installed (DIY'er) I have no patristic draw and after re-testing last night all numbers are still within spec from wires 1 - 2, 1 - 3, 2 - 3 and then all three wires to ground with no continuity detected.

I am going through today and checking all the ground connections disconnect and clean the contact areas, just to rule out the ground connection possibility.

I looked at the R/R from Yamaha Parts House .com. Would the R/R for 2005 Yamaha ROAD STAR MIDNIGHT (XV17AMT) work? I am not sure what one I should be looking at or if it even matters. but for $108 not being to bad I will upgrade in a couple weeks. I just don't want to get it on and find that the bike still does the same thing, Quits charging after it warms up.
The reg/rec on the 1100 is a weak link in the system. They tend to go out from time to time, which is why we started using the Road Star regs.

I can't tell you with 100% accuracy that will fix the problem.... there could be other issues ....I've never seen your bike so I'm just not sure. It's up to you to diagnose and determine what needs to be done. That's why the repair shops charge what they do.....it requires and lot of knowledge and investigation. I can tell you that usually in these circumstances the reg/rec is the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
@ Nick 57,

I have tested all grounds that I can find. I even taken the ground from the battery off the engine and cleaned with sand paper and re attached. I have also been testing all diodes and fuse links just so I know myself they are good.

I also did checks at the Fuse box. When I got to the light fuse, I found after removing the fuse the clusters did not light up, however, the head light remained on with the fuse removed. I will be checking all the wires, diodes and connections on the circuit today. ( I found out today that the fuse for the cluster and head lamp are two separate fuses)

@ Sick Mick.

I do plan on getting that Road Star R/R around the first of the month. Even if i get this one figured out I am still going to upgrade. Does it matter what Road Star R/R I order?


@ Wavelength.

I am going to try a different battery today. One that I know for sure is good and new. I am also thinking of running a secondary ground from the R/R to the frame.

UpDate:
1. Stator reading after failure and running fell well within the 20-30 avc range. All three wire read the exact same reading with no polarity to ground.
2. New battery full charged with a secondary ground on the R/R did the same when the bike warmed up. Quit charging.
 

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from what i understand,one cause of failure is a bad ground. does that mean the obvious battery to ground or can it be from anything electrical that grounds? if its anything can it be discovered using some type of tester.
The main ground is one of the most overlooked electrical connections on the 1100. It's under the bike and hard to get to, but it should be cleaned every couple of years...
 

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Hi I have a 2000 v star 1100 classic with 54000 miles. Not sure if l
I should post here or start another topic but my plug from stator was as also melted . It was overcharging on longer rides .But 130 miles into last ride been smelling sulfer oder .Filled up , wouldn't start had to jump and found batt. swellen badly. Went another 20 miles and it died . Won't fire , blew tail/stop light also dem headlight oil level bulb , replaced R/R tested stator and pickup ohms , didn't test at what book said.Replaced all three and still will not fire.
 

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Sulfur smell and battery bulging are both signs of battery failure. If a battery is low on fluid it can give off sulfur odor. Most motorcycle batteries are sealed but, I saw some guys installing a new one on a trike the other day that was not a sealed battery. Over-charging can cook off the fluids in the battery. Me, I'd have a knowledgeable person look at it.
 
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