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2003 v star 650 classic. I believe I have it down to a bad regulator, did the diode test and the numbers range from 460 to 518 between the three. Are these numbers far enough from each other to point to the regulator? Also, I have read mostly the usually when the RR goea bad it usually puts out too much voltage. Im just hoping its not the stator


And yes I know problem is misspelled in the title, couldnt fix it
 

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2003 v star 650 classic. I believe I have it down to a bad regulator, did the diode test and the numbers range from 460 to 518 between the three. Are these numbers far enough from each other to point to the regulator? Also, I have read mostly the usually when the RR goea bad it usually puts out too much voltage. Im just hoping its not the stator


And yes I know problem is misspelled in the title, couldnt fix it
regulators really can't be tested a stator can be tested but you can't find out how much power it can deliver unless you load it ( put a demand on it ) did you know because the stator is ac voltage you can hook a 110/ 75 watt light bulb between the output pins and if its working well it will light up brightly, just be careful because if you touch any of the wires while your loading the stator it can bang you pretty good, a volt meter won't work because it won't put a demand on the alternator/stator, anytime you put a demand on electricity it's kinda like a controlled short. diodes are just one way valves for electricity but testing the regulator for it's capacity is impossible with out loading that too, that just how it is with solid state most things can't truly be tested with out loading them
 

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I did not know about the lightbulb trick. Good to know. Not saying your wrong, but why does my manual say to test the stator by voltage and ohms? Not to mention countless websites and videos, and other forums for that matter tell how to test stators and RR using ohms and diode tests? Just curious. And thanks for your answer and reply
 

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ohms testing a stator can only tell you if one or more coils in the stator are shorted or open, stator volts doesn't matter much it's the watts or amps that it is capable of delivering and you cant find that out without putting a demand on it. just because the ohms test shows the stator is fine doesn't mean it's charging. there are other factors involved like how good are the flywheel magnets and how clean are all the connections, flywheel magnets get weaker over time and connections corrode all these thing have to be in good condition to get most out of a stator, i don't really mess with regulators because mostly they ether work or they don't and aftermarket ones are very cheap so if i even suspect it's not functioning correctly i just change it out, the very first thing you do before testing anything in a charging system is check (all ) connections in the system even the ones that are difficult to get to, i worked on a bike that wasn't charging right and the problem ended up being a charging plug that was connected to the battery that had a very slight chafe in the positive lead that was barely shorting to the frame, but it was enough that it drove me crazy for a couple of hours before i located it, after that i learned when everything in a circuit tests good but it still wont work i need to check the entire electrical system on the bike, paying attention to areas where wires are against the frame and separating the connection plugs to check for corrosion..good luck oh yeah just so you know the 650 stator is capable of delivering 233 watts which should light up 2 100 watt household bulbs very brightly at around 5,000 rpm
 
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