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Discussion Starter #1
i may have a clutch issue. this just started Friday evening. if i accelerate too hard or twist the throttle too much, the RPM's will jump up but the power is not transferred to the pulley. this happens pretty much through any gear, but much moreso once i'm in the high gear. gears 1-4, i have to let off the throttle a tad during acceleration to avoid this, but once i shift into 5th gear, i lose a ton of acceleration. the effect is akin to me squeezing in the clutch lever. i can still accelerate, but only at a small pace or else the RPM's jump up like the clutch is being engaged while throttling up, then i have to let off the throttle to get it to stop, and ease it back up again to increase my speed.

i still have smooth shifting and don't hear any abnormal sounds, and the engine otherwise appears to be running just fine. this began immediately after I participated in the ROT rally bike parade. during the parade, i frequently revved up my engine for the onlookers by squeezing in the clutch and throttling on. then i would pop the clutch back to jump the bike forward. it's pretty fun, but probably the main cause for the issue that began that night. i don't normally do this to my bike; it's a once a year type of thing.

is this a clutch issue? are the plates slipping into place in-between gears? could it be just a simple adjustment/alignment to fix it?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the help, but it's not a clutch lever/cable issue. my issue is different from that post. i've got plenty of cable free play and the clutch has no problem engaging when the lever is pulled.

i've got 56K miles on this, so i wouldn't be surprised if it's just time for something to start to fail, but since this occurred right after what i was doing during the bike parade, i don't attribute it to just normal wear and tear.
 

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Maybe what you did in the parade was just the final straw on a problem waiting to expose itself.
I don't see how that would have caused any issues though. It would be different if you had been riding the friction zone for hours or something like that.
Definitely sounds like slippage though. If all your adjustments are correct then I would suggest have a professional look at it next.
 

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Bevo, you might have just slicked the plates and burned your oil. Happens under identical circumstances you described. If the plate thickness is in spec along with the springs and cable adjustment you might just need to change the oil to a good 20W-50 V Twin oil. People have taken the clutch apart and sprayed with brake cleaner, soaked in corn meal, sand papered, etc. but when it happened to my KZ650 my dealer said to put in the 20W-50 V Twin dino oil it was fine shortly thereafter. Energy conserving oils are notorious for causing this but it can happen with non energy conserving oils too doing exactly what you were doing.
 

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I think I would drain the oil into a clean container, so I could look at it for any sort of contamination or discoloration. It is possible you got things a bit hot between idling and goosing the engine in a parade. The clutch slippage (and that is just what your description sounds like) would have gotten the clutch hot, too. If you get really lucky an oil change might cure the problem. More likely, clutch work is in your near future.
 

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What you're describing is exactly what I had... the clutch was slipping and was especially noticeable in higher gears. I tried changing the oil but in the end, I replaced the clutch and she was good as new.

Dan
 

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Sounds like slippage to me. Maybe all the goosing. At 56k miles, I don't think the plates should be worn. Even on a car with a single dry plate, 56k isn't a whole lot.

I think, in a parade, your engine is already warmer than usual. Then goosing it might have caused the plates to glaze over. Super high heat, submerged in oil. Like a cast iron pan.

I'd drain it, smell the oil. Take off the cover and look at your plates. I'd assume you have enough 'meat' left, they're just glazed and not catching.
 

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Sounds like slippage to me. Maybe all the goosing. At 56k miles, I don't think the plates should be worn. Even on a car with a single dry plate, 56k isn't a whole lot.

I think, in a parade, your engine is already warmer than usual. Then goosing it might have caused the plates to glaze over. Super high heat, submerged in oil. Like a cast iron pan.

I'd drain it, smell the oil. Take off the cover and look at your plates. I'd assume you have enough 'meat' left, they're just glazed and not catching.
I just changed my clutch plates and half of them were definitely burned out, bike had 32k KMs on it when I got it and it was already slipping, which is WAAAY less than 56k miles. Of course that could also mean the previous person who rode it (My brother's ex-wife) couldn't shift properly worth a damn lol!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
At 56k miles, I don't think the plates should be worn...Then goosing it might have caused the plates to glaze over...I'd assume you have enough 'meat' left, they're just glazed and not catching.
What's the difference? Wouldn't the affected plates need to be replaced anyway depending on which scenario it is?
 

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What's the difference? Wouldn't the affected plates need to be replaced anyway depending on which scenario it is?
If you are paying shop rates to have the job done, it is probably less expensive to just replace all the plates. If you are doing it yourself, you may be able to clean the cork-faced plates and sand off the glazing. I am told that is quite time-consuming.
 

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With that milage, if I was going to bother go inside the case I would replace parts not just clean them and hope it solved the issue.
 

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With that milage, if I was going to bother go inside the case I would replace parts not just clean them and hope it solved the issue.
Seems like a no-brainer to me too......
 

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Discussion Starter #16
thanks guys. as long as it's just the plates that are the problem, i think i'm going to attempt to replace them myself. if i get inside and realize i don't know what i'm doing, then i'll let a mechanic take over. but there's only one way to learn....

do i need to completely drain my oil before opening up the clutch?
 

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thanks guys. as long as it's just the plates that are the problem, i think i'm going to attempt to replace them myself. if i get inside and realize i don't know what i'm doing, then i'll let a mechanic take over. but there's only one way to learn....

do i need to completely drain my oil before opening up the clutch?
I didn't drain any, I just put a pan under the crankcase when I opened it to catch whatever oil spilled out, which was not much. Make sure you have an extra gasket, there's a very good chance you will need to scrap bits of the old one off and replace it with a new one. In fact, the biggest pain in the butt about changing the clutch was actually not the clutch... it was getting the cover back on without the new gasket falling out of place. Seriously, I spent 20 minutes changing the clutch and almost an hour fiddling with the damn gasket.

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #19
i keep seeing in places that the new friction plates need to be soaked in oil for a period of time, like overnight. is this really necessary? would it be OK to just smear oil on them when you're ready to put them into place?

also, if i'm not replacing the steel drive plates, should i score them with sandpaper to create a semi-rough surface?

lastly, i can't seem to find any aftermarket clutch springs specifically for the 950. i've got 56K miles on the bike. should i replace these? and if so, should i just stick with OEM? i'd rather get a set that has a slightly higher pressure rating, but if i can't find any specifically for my model, are these springs usually universal? or should i make sure i'm getting a set that is specifically fitted for my model?
 

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Gosh Bevo, If I got 56,000 out of an OEM clutch, I would use OEM parts again. I might not do as many parades with the new one though.

Just a thought. Augie
 
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