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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The past few times I have ridden I have noticed a little slipping on hard acceleration early in a ride. Once I ride 20 mins or so it seems to disappear. I'm assuming getting to full operating temp is what's causing it to stop. Is this just the normal signs of the clutch in the early stages of needing replacement? Bike has a little over 22K miles. Engine oil level is correct as well.
 

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Sounds like it just may need adjustment on the bottom end
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Mick, I will check that as soon as I have a chance. Another tidbit of info, I have only owned this bike about 6mths and its my first. I have always noticed it took very little movement of the lever to allow me to shiftand the friction zone is almost nonexistant. I have heard these things have a small friction zone so I never thought much of it and just dealt with it. Anyway, while paying more attention to it today I would say that in no more than about 1/2" movement of the lever the clutch seems to be completely released. Would these symptoms also be consistent with an out of adjustment cable?
 

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Thanks Mick, I will check that as soon as I have a chance. Another tidbit of info, I have only owned this bike about 6mths and its my first. I have always noticed it took very little movement of the lever to allow me to shiftand the friction zone is almost nonexistant. I have heard these things have a small friction zone so I never thought much of it and just dealt with it. Anyway, while paying more attention to it today I would say that in no more than about 1/2" movement of the lever the clutch seems to be completely released. Would these symptoms also be consistent with an out of adjustment cable?
The lower end is not a cable adjustment, it's the adjustment for the release rod. Follow the shop manual for proper adjustment. There's more info on it in the wKB too.....it's a good idea to check there for things you have questions about.....most everything is in there.

https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1100kb/home/maintenance-repairs/clutch

As far as cable adjustment, I've never had an issue with "friction zone" or whatever they call it on my 1100. Just adjust it on the top end for where you like the release point to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok I'm digging up this old thread because I'm still having issues. I made the adjustment that mick suggested back last fall but never got to ride again until today. Well now she won't even get out of her own way. Just wondering if I should just replace the clutch or is there something else to check first. FWIW this thing didn't see 200 miles since 2008 until I bought it last April. Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Honestly I'm not sure cause it was back in Oct.when I did it. I do seem to remember being unsure of when to stop the screw. I plan on pulling the cover and rechecking it cause I was wondering if I had caused more harm than good.
 

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I know when I first got my bike. I did the oil change with 10w 30
pennsoil. After that when on the gas hard like to pass the clutch would slip a bit. I thought it was the clutch going out.

Come to find out these bikes do not like regular CAR oil. Friction modifier (energy conserving) in these oils are not made for wet clutch like a bike.

I installed a set of Barnett Clutch springs adjusted the clutch and changed the oil to 5 W 40 Rotella T6 and all has been good since.

Does not slip at all even under hard take off's...

Oil type can do that... Make it slip ... :rolleyes:
 

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Come to find out these bikes do not like regular CAR oil. Friction modifier in these oils are not made for wet clutch like a bike.

I installed a set of Barnett Clutch springs adjusted the clutch and changed the oil to 5 W 40 Rotella T6 and all has been good since.

Does not slip at all even under hard take off's...

Oil type can do that... Make it slip ... :rolleyes:
That is not true. Regular "CAR oil" works perfectly fine, you just need to stay away from anything with "Energy Conserving" on the label. Usually anything above 10W30 will be safe to use....just make sure it doesn't have the designation on the bottle. I've used it in every motorcycle I've ever had and never had a clutch issue.

Energy Conserving contains a small amount of moly which is not good for a wet clutch. That is what makes it energy conserving.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks resto but luckily I was smart enough to use bike oil. :)
So if in fact I have miss adjusted the rod what's the best way to get it back to a good starting point? Just turn it out a turn or two then back in and look for the stopping point again? Exactly what does this rod and adjustment do? I always prefer to know exactly how something works and what the adjustment are doing as opposed to turning screws and not knowing how it effects things.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Yes I'm fully aware the label reads Energy conserving , contains friction modifiers. Just what I said above.

I could find no 10w40 oil that did not have this in it. I then found out about the Rotella (walmart) Actually is for Diesel trucks and tractors.
Full synthetic 5 w/40 and works great. Not as expensive as motorcycle
oils in the stores.

The manual even states this but I overlooked it for some strange reason.

Anyway no harm done just be careful selecting oil for bikes. :);):rolleyes:
 

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The rod adjustment works like a throw out on a car clutch. It pushes the clutch plates apart . Which in this case is a fraction of an inch.
That is why the adjustment is critical. Follow the manual for procedures and I think the CC&D forum has a detailed write up on this too. Make sure to replace the clutch case gasket. If it tears on removal.

It might be adjusted a bit too tight.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #14

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I could find no 10w40 oil that did not have this in it. I then found out about the Rotella (walmart) Actually is for Diesel trucks and tractors.
Full synthetic 5 w/40 and works great. Not as expensive as motorcycle
oils in the stores.

The manual even states this but I overlooked it for some strange reason.

Anyway no harm done just be careful selecting oil for bikes. :);):rolleyes:
You're right...you do need to be careful.....but......Almost every 10W-40 on up is non energy conserving. Pretty much anything above 30 weight excludes it from that rating. I checked Valvoline, Pennzoil, Castrol, Royal Purple, Quaker State.... and none of their 10W-40 that I saw is rated to be "Energy Conserving"...so there are a ton of choices out there. Some times it depends on where you shop too..... some places have extremely good selections.
 

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The auto parts stores here in Florida must be an exception because
nearly every bottle had the circular label on the back.

Or if it did not it was the wrong grade for what I wanted based on the manual rating.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So today I read that section in the service manual a couple times and now I know exactly how that whole lever/cam setup pushes the rod through the clutch. Knowing that and the advise I received here I was able to readjust it and yeah I definitely had it too tight. Loosened it up a few turns and started over till I got it right. Nick57, thanks for the suggestion of turning it by hand. Without doing that I probably would have never been able to feel the so called "stopping point". Using a screwdriver is what screwed me up when I attempted it originally. All is well and she runs just fine.
Thanks again guys!
 

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Your Welcome, Most of us are on the same page we just have a different way of interpreting the data.

I came from the CC&D forum because many over there were way too
hurtful in comments and a holier than thou attitude that rubbed me the wrong way.

Here it is much better. We are like a big family. We love motorcycles
and many of us have had multiple bikes over the years as well as offer
a perspective that novice riders can understand and feel like the spot light is shining on them. It does work.

jake :rolleyes::)
 
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