Yamaha Starbike Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Took off carbs and cleaned put everything on, engine light blinks 5 long 6 fast I think that means code 56 which is valve #2 fuel soleniod is bad. Probably cause it wont turn with the bolt so it cracks the wires. So, was wondering if I could just leave it, or fix it myself if I have to. I dont wanna pay 150 just for one plug. Any ideas?
 

·
Super Moderator "Loose Nut"
Joined
·
6,776 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,681 Posts
I didnt know the bikes had a fuel cutoff solenoid ?!

I thought the rev limiter cuts off the ignition?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
446 Posts
I just learned this week that indian bikes kill the rear cylinder when at idle to keep it from heating up your legs when at stop lights, maybe fuel savings also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Sorry guys code was 58 not 56 but still value #2 fuel soleniod disconnected or short circuit. Is it safe to delete them??? I thought they kept the CConveter from getting filled with fuel? But if it is safe, can I? Or should I just get aftermarket pipes and delete the CC. Thanks for the help tips!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Also this is probably stupid to ask... butttttt when it says valve #2 solenoid... is that the left side carb or the right side card. I know its dumb to ask but I just wanna be sure lol.
 

·
Super Moderator "Loose Nut"
Joined
·
6,776 Posts
Good question. On 1100 the front cylinder is #2.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
So is it safe to just delete the solenoids if I still have stock exhaust? Or maybe just delete the CConverter??? Any ideas I dont wanna spend 150 on a new plug lol
 

·
Super Moderator "Loose Nut"
Joined
·
6,776 Posts
You can try to solder, normally the heat will compromise the sensor. This sensor cuts fuel off in case of tip over. It's a reduntent system. If you cut you petcock to the off position no fuel is going to carbs. I guess for safety reasons they put a secondary system. If it was me I would just put the sensor back in to plug the hole and ride. Just turn petcock to off position when you park the bike, it's a good habit to get into anyway. Keep us posted on your progress.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,681 Posts
from the stage 2 carbs bike dies converstaion

" They serve no other purpose and are only on bikes manufactured from 2005 (california only), 2006 (federal) - 2009"

thats interesting - neither of my bikes has them - one less thing to fail.

Ive always shut the fuel off on my bike when I park it for the night, or if I park it where someone might bump it and knock it over.

Its just one less thing to worry about, esp if you park your bike in the garage. If there is a fuel leak anywhere past the petcock, that stops it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,681 Posts
Yes, its an absolute PITA.

last time I had the carbs off to check my valve clearance on my 650 it took me 30 minutes to tighten up those two hose clamps. Everytime I torqued them down one or the other would pop off.

You need three hands, one to hold the intake air box down tight on the carbs, and the other two to hold the clamps and turn the screws.

My Royal Star has four carbs into one airbox - Not looking forward to ever taking it off.

I think over the years the plastic shrinks or deforms, there is not much you can do but man-handle it into place, assuming you have the carbs on the head intake tubes installed on the right front and back positions.... (the black tubes that connect the bottom of the carbs to the heads, called the "carb joint" on the exploding drawings).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Yes, its an absolute PITA.

last time I had the carbs off to check my valve clearance on my 650 it took me 30 minutes to tighten up those two hose clamps. Everytime I torqued them down one or the other would pop off.

You need three hands, one to hold the intake air box down tight on the carbs, and the other two to hold the clamps and turn the screws.

My Royal Star has four carbs into one airbox - Not looking forward to ever taking it off.

I think over the years the plastic shrinks or deforms, there is not much you can do but man-handle it into place, assuming you have the carbs on the head intake tubes installed on the right front and back positions.... (the black tubes that connect the bottom of the carbs to the heads, called the "carb joint" on the exploding drawings).
yeah I think I have them installed correctly lol the number 1 and 2 are on one or the other tube connectors. The number 1 is on the right side the 2 is on the left side. I for real cant get this damn intake on... I'm at a loss and taking a break. Idk how to get it back on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,681 Posts
The only other thing I can think of is loosen the base of the carbs, attach the intake air box clamps, then torque the base of the carbs down again.

The front and rear carbs are the same. If you did not take off the intake boots to the cylinder heads, it should bolt back together, unless maybe one of the carbs is not seated to the intake tube on the bottom.

The air box will only line up in one direction, so that cant be backwards.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top