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Had it on the floor lift and I did have some one hold it. Drianed the two pans then changed the filter lowered it off the stand because the stand did cover the rear plug. Removed it while the bike was on the floor and drained the rest. Replaced that one and began the fill. Just wondering if I could cut a 17mm box end in half and not really need the jack at all. My dad and I used to "modify" tools to fit the job. Maybe heat it and bend it some instead of cutting it off.
Next will be the transfer case anyone have shortcuts or knowledge to make it an easier job?

Thanks

2008 Strat S
 

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Sounds like your on a roll. I would short cut the t-case drain and loosen the rear exhaust clamp at muffler then take the rear head pipe nuts off from the head and twist the pipe down out of the way of the fill plug. this seem to work for me.
 

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For the crankcase oil change, I use the lift to raise the bike then set it back down on a double layer of 2x8's under the front and rear tires and then use a full length 17mm wrench.

For the gear oil change, I just followed the shop manual procedure.
 

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I just threw down a plywood sheet on the ground and rolled the stratoliner on it, and sat the liner down on the kickstand. I thought "well, this is never going to work!!" But much to my surprise, I was able to drain the oil tank pretty easily, and I was able to remove both drain plugs on the engine crankcase using a "stubby" 17mm combi wrench. I also used a somewhat shallow oil drain pan (kinda triangular in shape) and everything drained very well. I believe by placing the strat on the kickstand, the oil drained out much better and more thorough from the engine crankcase!!

Me being a BIG person, I still found it fairly easy to drain the engine oil out of the strat even without a jackstand. As it is, I don't own a jackstand anyway!! I believe the key is using a "stubby" wrench!!
 

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Congrats on your first oil change! I hope it gave you a sense of pride to do your own work, like it does for me.

Just wondering if I could cut a 17mm box end in half and not really need the jack at all. My dad and I used to "modify" tools to fit the job.
Before you go to modifying tools, take a look at crowfoot wrenches. They snap right onto your 3/8" ratchet, and you can use them with a torque wrench, if you've got one.
 

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Yep...stubby works...Sears for $15.99 stubby Craftsman gear wrench...priceless!
 

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I will not let the dealer do the oil & filter change any more on my bike!! At the 600 mile service, all "seemed" right. At the 4000 mile service is when I got the shock of my life!! I had driven home from the dealer, about 50 miles, and got home and checked the oil level and I was horrified to see that the oil was nearly BLACK as my son's old Ford Ranger pickup.

Also, I had asked the dealer to save me a sample of the 600 thru 4000 mile oil, and any leftover new oil in the gallon container. The dealer gave me a quart of the sample oil in a yamalube container, and gave me an empty gallon and full quart of the fresh oil leftover. I thought this was strange because the capacity of the crankcase with oil filter is 5.1 liters, and the dealer gave me a full quart of fresh oil leftover???

It just didn't add up!! Oh I tell you I was mad as hell until 8000 miles, then I decided to do my own oil change, then I was even MADDER than hell !! The forward engine oil plug was loose to the point of had I driven it on another North GA mountain run, the motorcycle would have been a chapter in history!! Also, I had the time of my life trying to get the damn oil filter off!! I believe (but cannot prove) it was the original filter born on the bike!!

Well, I let everything drain well and put a fresh new filter on, snugged all the bolts down real good, then proceeded to fill the bike with fresh oil. Guess what...... I used EXACTLY 5 quarts of oil, and, I drove it around say 50 to 75 miles or so and checked the oil and the oil was nice and clean and translucent AS IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN AT 4000 miles!!

I went back to the Dealer and checked to "see" who did the 4000 mile service on my bike, and found out it was none other than a JACKASS PUNK Grease Gopher with his head up his ASS!! Kinda like the kids that Damquick1 (forum member) described in his incident with Hit and Run!!

Long Story short....I have found out the hard way to do most of the work on my bike myself!! I can't rely on the dealer to do the routine maintenance, because they will ALWAYS throw the least one out there on your investment!! This is so sad!! I am certain many of ya'll out there have experienced something of the same!!


B.T.W. I use Motul 7100 4T 20W-50 oil in my sled!! And a Yamaha Oil Filter.


E.
 

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Better unwind yer britches a bit and read the manual, BigE as it truly appears that you haven't.

Per Yamaha, there is no filter change at 4,000 miles.

Your bike will not hold 5 (4.90) Liter's of oil without a filter change.
Only holds 4.10 liters,,,

Looks to me like the 'grease gopher with his head up his ass' at least read the manual and got that part right...
 

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Even tho the manual may say not to change the filter, I and many others say do it. Fresh oil dirty filter what happens to that oil..black as that old ford ranger lol. Yamaha sells bikes.
 

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Even tho the manual may say not to change the filter, I and many others say do it.
And that's perfectly fine. When I reach 4K , I'll probably do the same. (I'll at least drain the filter and lines if not,,,)

But,,, there's no need to come on a forum and call a Tech a JACKASS PUNK when in truth he followed Yamaha's 4K maintenance procedures. (Did anyone expect him to do otherwise?)

Granted, one plug may have not been tightened enough, but everyone (?) here know's the forward plug is kinda tough to get at and it's easy enough for it to 'feel' tight with a wrench when it isn't.

Not an excuse, but I can see how it happened.
 

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I am sorry, I forgot to mention in this forum that I told the Dealer I wanted a new oil filter installed at 4000 miles, irregardless of the manual. And I was charged for a new oil filter at 4000 miles. I would have hoped that the Dealer or Head Mechanic had told the "grease gopher" to change the oil filter, but maybe they did not. Anyway, I am happy now with the results of my oil and filter change at 8000 miles!!


E.
 

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No prob, E!

Now that ya been through it once, the next time will be EZ!

I did my 600 a while back and put 5.25 qts in,,, I shamefully admit I never checked the level till today w/3000 miles,,,, The floor made the front high by about an inch plus I had the bike in my Condor cradle... Oil was at the top top top (and a tad bit more) than the top hash marks,,, Think I'll try 5 qts next time!
 

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Houston Hemi,

I stopped filling oil right at 5 quarts. This was after letting everything drain, and drain, and drain, and changing the oil filter. I just kept letting it drip till nothing was left. At 5 quarts refill, the level came up to little more than 3/4 of the way up the dipstick. (Hashmarks) I was scared to put any more oil in the bike because when warmed up the oil level rises somewhat, and I didn't want an overfilled situation.

The only real problems I had with the oil change is that everything is real cramped for space!! I had considered a K&N oil filter #303C, but when I looked at it in the parts store I thought, No way is this gonna fit in the cramped space!! Especially with the 17mm nut on the end!! I couldn't figure how to get a torque wrench to work in the tight areas of the crankcase drain bolts either!! I believe earlier in this post it was mentioned that Crows Foot wrenches will work. I will have to play around with that when I have some spare time!!

And finally, I would like to ask you what you are using for lubricant and filters. Just curious, that's all. You know, the kind of questions a bunch of guys have standing around a pickup truck!!


E.
 

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E,

Checking the oil level in a liner is a pain,,,, (That's why I avoided it for so long)

Basically, the bike has to be driven until all the oil is hot. (Idle won't do it.)
Then it has to idle upright for 30 seconds with no blipping the throttle. After shutting it off, remove cap/stick and hold upright. Dip the stick w/o threading it in to check level.

There's a how to video on the Star website,,, somewhere,,,,

The front plug is cramped pretty bad (Everything on a Yami is 'tight' comparred to my old VTX")

I uses the K + N 303 and it fits fine. I like the 'nut' as I don't have to get anywhere near the oil lines with a filter wrench that way. Also, the filter is supposed to have 'thick' steel walls,,, might help with flying projectiles vs a 'thin' walled econo filter,,,

I never have used a torque wrench on a drain plug. I guess I feel like Ive done so many for so long now,,,, Cars, pickups, Farm equipment, Construction equipment, Mowers, bikes,,,

I purchased a 'thin walled' open end/box end stubby wrench for the front plug. The box end seems to seat well, but one should pay attention to how far it turns when tightening. Even with a 'thin' wrench, the range of motion before you hit the case is limited.

Oil,, Jeez, everyone has their fav,,,, currently using MO 1 here. Generally try to stick with synthetics in everything I drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I got a cake pan, NOT from the kitchen but Salvation Army, and used it for the drain pan. It was almost full when I got done so next time do the oil tank then empty it then do the pans and filter. New oil new filter, DADS rule, better than any manual!!!!!!!!
 

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A new filter certainly isn't going to hurt anything,,,

The wifes '11 Mustang has a recommended OCI not to exceed 10,000 miles. The onboard computer looks like it will be indicating a change between 9,000 and 10,000.

Dad's rules are fine, but typically, we aren't using dad's car, bike, oil, or filter today,,, =)
 
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