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Hi,

I'm a brand new rider and am wandering about Ivan's ECU Flash. I read a lot on it and spoke with his office. It seems it would be a great thing to smooth out the throttle because of the fuel cutout. I have a 2013 model.

I'd like to know what everyone thinks. Is it worth the $350. Especially given I am a brand new rider. I am concerned more about smoothness and driveability more than increasing the power.

I don't see myself adding an intake but like the idea of the Cobra Slip On 2275.

Thanks for your input.

John
 

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just unplug your O2 sensor, will not rid all the low speed jerkiness but helps a lot and the Cobra slip on you will have about 90% better drive ability. I drilled my stock muffler first and is a waste of time. just my opinion. check out 2 FB groups for 1300 and the Deluxe. lots of info on both.
 

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If you’re going to do the ECU flash, I’d recommend the open air filter kit. That was the most noticeable improvement on my 950 tourer. The cobra slipon gave me a little more grunt and better exhaust tone, but the intake was the best. It took out all the hesitation, I didn’t do the flash but I did add a fuel management system.


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just unplug your O2 sensor, will not rid all the low speed jerkiness but helps a lot and the Cobra slip on you will have about 90% better drive ability. I drilled my stock muffler first and is a waste of time. just my opinion. check out 2 FB groups for 1300 and the Deluxe. lots of info on both.
I researched the surging, jerking and fuel issues after adding a full system to this bike and whether the Cobra slipon suffered the same fate on all the usual spots like google, youtube and FB but no one said there was an issue if you just used the "slipon" but ....... you are saying that there will be a surge/miss/jerking which will still require a fuel controller or flash ...... I am disappointed to say the least, I want the noise but really don't want all those low speed issues I found them dangerous around town.
 

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I do not agree with unplugging the o2 sensor without Ivans flash (or someone flashing it) That puts the computer into a failsafe mode. It can make the bike run rich, which will stop the lean surge that they tend to have, but it can cause other issues. I would highly recommend the Ivan flash. If you are going to do a high flow intake and exhaust do it at the same time and make sure you let Ivan know which one you are putting on. Ivan sells a lot of the same stuff. I had him do a "mailorder" flash on my bike. On a whim I threw her on the Dyno. The numbers with AF were damn near dead on. I was very happy to see that. Good luck.
 

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speaking of ECU flashes and fuel controllers for air and pipes, I had a harley that I put a big air kit and pipes on but instead of using a fuel controller/dyno to richen up the mix I purchased a Nightrider module that plugged in between the oxy sensor and the ecu this just fooled the ecu into riching up the mixture by 5% or so and only cost around $120 though didnt add any more power nor take away any OEM restrictions the way a ECU flash would but it certainly protected the investment, so I was wondering if there was something like this for the japanese market?
 

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speaking of ECU flashes and fuel controllers for air and pipes, I had a harley that I put a big air kit and pipes on but instead of using a fuel controller/dyno to richen up the mix I purchased a Nightrider module that plugged in between the oxy sensor and the ecu this just fooled the ecu into riching up the mixture by 5% or so and only cost around $120 though didnt add any more power nor take away any OEM restrictions the way a ECU flash would but it certainly protected the investment, so I was wondering if there was something like this for the japanese market?
There are. I have never used one so I do not have an opinion on them either way.
 

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Hi,

I'm a brand new rider and am wandering about Ivan's ECU Flash. I read a lot on it and spoke with his office. It seems it would be a great thing to smooth out the throttle because of the fuel cutout. I have a 2013 model.

I'd like to know what everyone thinks. Is it worth the $350. Especially given I am a brand new rider. I am concerned more about smoothness and driveability more than increasing the power.

I don't see myself adding an intake but like the idea of the Cobra Slip On 2275.

Thanks for your input.

John
Ivan's flash is not for power like most mistakenly assume, it is for smoothness and ride-ability. A open air intake and exhaust is where you will see the increase in power. The Flash does these things:

1. Advances the ignition timing throughout the power band. This helps eliminate the surging and lack of torque at lower RPM's. This also allows the engine to run cooler and produces less heat and vibration.
2. Adjusts the throttle mapping for a smoother roll on instead of the ON/OFF behavior of the throttle
3. Enriches and leans the fuel tables/maps as needed. Results in more power in the lower RPM range and runs the A/F at the correct range instead of the over lean factory condition.
4. Disables "fuel cut" Fuel cut is an EPA mandate to have the fuel injectors turn of every time you let off the throttle above a certain RPM (Idle). This causes hard deceleration, backfiring and popping when using less restrictive exhaust.
5. Allows the radiator fan to come on at a lower temp to promote better cooling during stop and go.

The Ivan' flash is the best mod you can get for a V Star or any of the fuel injected bikes he works on. After the flash you have to re-learn the bike because it is completely different in a great way.
 

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I decided to order the Cobra Slip On 2275 for now and see how it responds. I may still go ahead with Ivan's ECU Flash. Either way I'm excited about the bike and riding!!!
I haven't done the flash yet, but from what I understand, the flash is determined by your set up.
I don't know how the bike would run, if say, you ran a stock airbox & Cobra slipon, had it flashed,then decided you wanted an open air intake.
 

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For me, it was hard to pony up that amount of money for a software change, but based on the remarks on this site, I decided to take the plunge. As everyone has stated before......money well spent. The bike now runs as it should have from the factory. Maybe not a big increase in horsepower, but the driveability is really improved.
 

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For me, it was hard to pony up that amount of money for a software change, but based on the remarks on this site, I decided to take the plunge. As everyone has stated before......money well spent. The bike now runs as it should have from the factory. Maybe not a big increase in horsepower, but the driveability is really improved.
The Flash was never about horsepower, that is a huge misconception in the internet world... Ivan himself on his website even says this.

Adding a free intake will result in the most HP, exhaust adds about 2 to 3 HP.

Here is Ivan's tune philospopy

If your primary riding is just at the dragstrip, you don't need an engine that runs perfect at all throttle positions. You just need the wide open throttle to be fine tuned and not much else. If it runs just ok at part throttle, this is good enough. The rest is your riding skill.

A street rider or road racer on the other hand, needs everything to be as perfect as you can get it. and at all throttle positions, including max power at full throttle.
Throttle Quality is key here... Throttle response needs to be smooth and predictable.

I will not release any tuning program to anyone until it passes my personal picky standards. The big HP is easy to get for any tuner that knows a little bit. But, having driveability that far surpasses stock is what separates a good tuner from a guy who follows the dyno tuners manual, or spends his work life on the dyno or at the dragstrip only.

A tuner that tunes primarily for the dragstrip or spends most of his time on the dyno has little to do with street riding.

Road racing has some similar things with street riding, but usually the street rider is the most demanding when it comes to throttle quality and feel.

The street rider wants the power of a racer with the manners of a refined gentleman.
 

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The Flash was never about horsepower, that is a huge misconception in the internet world... Ivan himself on his website even says this.

Adding a free intake will result in the most HP, exhaust adds about 2 to 3 HP.

Here is Ivan's tune philospopy

If your primary riding is just at the dragstrip, you don't need an engine that runs perfect at all throttle positions. You just need the wide open throttle to be fine tuned and not much else. If it runs just ok at part throttle, this is good enough. The rest is your riding skill.

A street rider or road racer on the other hand, needs everything to be as perfect as you can get it. and at all throttle positions, including max power at full throttle.
Throttle Quality is key here... Throttle response needs to be smooth and predictable.

I will not release any tuning program to anyone until it passes my personal picky standards. The big HP is easy to get for any tuner that knows a little bit. But, having driveability that far surpasses stock is what separates a good tuner from a guy who follows the dyno tuners manual, or spends his work life on the dyno or at the dragstrip only.

A tuner that tunes primarily for the dragstrip or spends most of his time on the dyno has little to do with street riding.

Road racing has some similar things with street riding, but usually the street rider is the most demanding when it comes to throttle quality and feel.

The street rider wants the power of a racer with the manners of a refined gentleman.
Nicely articulated sir! ..... I had a ECU flash on my last bike a Stryker that was great in regard to power but I certainly lost driveability in just about every gear but highway cruising speed or at throttle on position but at just on or low throttle position I was always having to work at keeping the revs just right or changing gears and many times I got frustrated and wanted to get it back to OEM just to experience the usability it originally had, but I traded her in instead LOL!

I have just put on this afternoon a Cobra 2275 on my new XVS1300A ..... and tomorrow I can take her out for a spin with the new muffler on and see if it has altered the throttle and smoothness in the low gear range to gauge my next move, if it only bucks on decel then that will be okay for the forseeable future but if it surges or I lose that smoothness down low I will have to go to do some serious thinking about whether I want a bit of sound/noise or I want the smoothness of OEM but knowing me it will be to get a big air kit and another flash eventually..... but I have only one place to go and that could put me right back to where I was, "frustrated" with a good bike that could be great!:|
 

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I have a 14 Vstar 1300 Tourer, I changed the stock trash can exhaust to the cobra 2275 slip on, 2 in 1 pipes. Then I removed the bulbous stock air breather and replaced that with a Baron Custom Big Air Intake. I now have the Ivan Flash and will never look back. The Ivan's flash really woke my Cleo right on up. She does not bog in lower gears, making city driving and cornering much easier. She has plenty of left over power if I need to womp it at higher speeds, like to get out of the way of a moron texting in the interstate at 75 mph. There is no longer any "Bogginess" in any gear. I am definitely happy with the Ivan’s Flash as she shifts up and down so much smoother now as well. I am not a gearhead per say, but I know what it feels like to have my ride no longer feeling like it is choking.
 

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I changed the stock trash can exhaust to the cobra 2275 slip on.
I have just moved over from a Yamaha Stryker Star xvs1300CU which had a set of V&H slash cut staggard pipes and a Cobra high flow with a ECU flash and Dyno tuned and as much as I loved the bike it could be a pain to ride at times ....... so now I have a Star xvs1300A same motor pretty well same weight and is stock standard except I too have just put on the Cobra slip on 2275 muffler, adding the muffler did not alter any of the bikes characteristics that I have been able to find except that it now sounds like a bike should, no misses or coughs except an occoasional backfire or pop on decel but that is music to my ears and find this bike a just so relaxing and a joy to ride, different style of riding altogether for some strange reason and I do notice that extra lack of oomph at times but the real beauty of this bike is I do not NEED to add the extra air and then a fuel controller or a flash as it goes along quite nicely as it is ..... and I am saving some money by not having to change anything else like I HAD to on the Stryker eh! :grin:
 

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Some questions. Say I get Ivan's flash for a stock 07 1300. Then I want to put on a new air intake/filter and or exhaust. Wouldn't that change the tuning then?

Is a fuel manager better for performance parts/changes to the bike as a fuel manager can always be tweaked as parts are changed or replaced?

Thoughts? I'm thinking of doing Ivan's but may want to add some aftermarket parts.
 

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Some questions. Say I get Ivan's flash for a stock 07 1300. Then I want to put on a new air intake/filter and or exhaust. Wouldn't that change the tuning then?

Is a fuel manager better for performance parts/changes to the bike as a fuel manager can always be tweaked as parts are changed or replaced?

Thoughts? I'm thinking of doing Ivan's but may want to add some aftermarket parts.
That is a question to ask Ivan, he will talk with you on the phone for as long as you want.
 

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I watched some videos on how the yamaha fuel injection systems works.

It is primarily an open loop system, which means from the factory it is tuned for the stock parts on the bike, and assumes you keep clean air filters, and you change nothing.

If you get the FI ECM controller flashed to improve the performance of the engine, and then change the intake or exhaust, then yes you need it flashed again for the new intake and exhaust

that is assuming they have different characteristics ( more air flow) . If they dont, then why would you spend money to change them?!
 

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I "THINK" Ivan told me he tunes it for as if it were getting exhaust and intake anyway. The tune is mostly for drivability.
 
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