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2007 vstar 1100
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so I have a 2000 650 Classic and it's had some mods... namely an aftermarket LED tail-light. Looks good but apparently the rear turn signals kept getting broken off by passengers. I don't have the stock setup.

In fact, I don't have ANY turn signals. Front or back.

So, I bought some aftermarket turn signals and some extra headlights. My understanding is this;

GREEN = Right Turn
BROWN = Left Turn
BLUE = Constant
BLACK = Ground (which comes from the actual headlight pigtail)

So... I hooked up the right side... and just to clear a dozen questions - I tried all sort of combinations just to be sure. Nothing.

So I checked the fuses... signal fuse was burned out. Replaced it. Then my neutral light starter working again - sweet! And the turn-signal INDICATOR came on for a few seconds but wouldn't shut off... so I hit the right side switch thinking that would kill it. And it did - just not the way I expected. It popped the fuse. This happened several times.

I put in a 15a fuse TEMPORARILY to help track down the bad ground/connection... the flasher relay instantly started smoking so I pulled the fuse.

Now, I've got nothing. I don't even have my normal tail light working. Wtf?

I'm sure being 14 years old... you guys must have a general idea on where I should look to get this fixed. Also... I probably need a new flasher. Anyone have one they can send me STAT!?!? In the meantime, is there a way I can test turn signals without the relay? Can I bypass it or something? I'd hate to burn up another one anyway and just putting in more 10a fuses isn't going to do anything. They will just keep popping until I find the source of the problem.

Or have I answered my own question and learned that the flasher WAS the source of my problem?? Help me out guys!!

FYI - here's the front turn signal setup I bought...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310830637306?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

And here's the rear... but I don't think they're big enough, bright enough or... RED enough lol.... so they will be replaced. I'd like to go stock back there if I can find a setup at a reasonable price. Anyway, here is what I'm working with right now - but I haven't touched them yet. Only the front.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111141390372?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
 

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2007 vstar 1100
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Discussion Starter #4
I didn't hook up the blue wire... I assumed it was for adding extra headlights.

BUT... I think I have it figured out!

The turn signals must ground themselves out, right? So the two wires are BOTH positive! One wire being the constant running light and the other - the flasher. Right? So when I had one wire coming from the turn signal to the green wire... and the other wire going to the ground... it was popping the fuse every time I hit the turn signal!

That's the only thing that makes sense. Sadly, I can't be sure since I burned up the flasher and the rest of my 10a fuses. And no Yamaha dealers around here either. Ugh! SO, as soon as I get a new flasher - I'll know for sure.

Can anyone confirm this?

And since I have three headlights... can I simply NOT wire up the running light for the front turn signals? That way they only come on when activated? Or since they're LEDs, do they have to be totally wired up so they will stay on but flash brighter when activated?

I bought this light setup but I can't really figure out what the purpose of having three lights is. I mean, I guess I can aim the outside smaller two like spotlights kinda. That could be helpful. But since you just wire them to be on all the time.... what's the point of having them setup like halos? Do people wire in extra switches?
 

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at the front you have a black,green, and blue.the lights are grounded thru the black.the green or the brown are the signal wires,and the blue is the constant running light.If you are connecting the blue to your driving lights i would think the fuse is not rated.if you do not use the amber running lights people will have a hard time seeing you.In the rear you have a green, brown, and a black the black is ground and the green and brown are left and right signals,there is a blue wire but it is the taillight.if you check the wkb pages in the lighting section, you will find info about turn signals you can get info about a flasher,autozone sells flashers for led lights.but you will probably lose the self cancellating feature of the turn signals.so oem would be ideal.
 

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2007 vstar 1100
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Discussion Starter #6
Right, but I'm wondering if the turn signals come grounded to the frame... If not, then there's some other problem.

I have amber front LED turn signals and only two wires come from the light itself. Shouldn't there be three? A green (for right side and brown for left side), a blue for constant and a black for ground? I've never seen a stock Vstar lit up.

So, do the Vstar amber turn signals stay on all the time? And then when you activate the turn signal - it flashes brighter/dimmer?
 

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how many wires do you have on your after market signals? If it is two then you need to hook them up to the flasher and ground only. If it is three then the constant on flasher and ground. BTW LEDS are fickle if you wired it backwards anywhere it will ground out and blow the fuse every time.

If you have your brake light wired backwards it will do the same thing. I can tell you the headlight brake light and blinkers all run off the same wires. IE no headlight no brake light. I just went through a gremlin of my own and it was a ground issue inside my handle bars...
 

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Wire Colors in Headlight Bucket





Yellow = High Beam Hot
Green = Low Beam Hot
Blue = Both Running Lights / Switched Hot - good place to "drive" solenoids
Dark-Green = Right Turn signal
Chocolate = Left Turn signal
Black = Ground





Wire Colors in Taillight Junction (Behind Plate) and also under the seat where wires go to rear.





Blue = Running Light (always hot when key is on) - good place to "drive" solenoids
Yellow = Brake Light
Black = Ground
Brown = Left Signal
Green = Right signal


sounds to me like you are running both fronts off the same side not one from the brown and one from the blue and both back to ground. And yes they both need to go to the same ground.
 

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2007 vstar 1100
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for replies!

Not running both from the same hot.... I only have ONE hooked up, lol! I didn't figure I'd attempt to hook up a second one until I got one working first.

And I knew LEDs were funny... I've done a lot of aftermarket wiring in cars/trucks. In fact, installing halos and HIDs in my Durango this week. I do all my own automotive electrical work.

And yes, turn signals only have two wires coming from them. I started with the right signal and wired the pos+ to the extra green wire and I wired the neg- to the only black wire in the casing. Now, maybe my flasher was already bad before I touched anything BUT... I still got nothing. It keeps popping fuses.

I'm going to install a new flasher to rule that problem out. Then I'll go from there. Thanks for the input fellas.

I will say this though... the only way I got the right turn signal to power on at all (and this is just being on solid - no flashing, and also with no fuse in) was when I connected one wire to the GREEN and the other to the BLUE. So unless the turn signal is grounded to the mounting bracket then... something funny is going on.
 

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OK to save you a ton of trouble here's a primer guide on troubleshooting electrical. First stop trying things by hooking up the lights and seeing what happens. One way it will work 50 other ways will damage something or cause a fire. So get a multi meter. They are cheap. You can get one for free with a coupon at harbor freight. No more replacing fuses or flashers or melting wires etc. Next Google a wiring schematic for your bike or maybe someone on here has one for you. Finally get the diagram for your aftermarket lights. Now its just a matter if measuring things. Test for voltage where it should be and not where it shouldn't. You are either connecting wrong or the wiring is screwed up in which case you wouldn't never get it right. One wire should have power and one should be ground. One of those should switch with the blinker ( usually the positive ). If you have combination lights (stay on as running lights then get brighter as blinkers) then you will have a constant and a switched positive. Once you identify your blink and ground you can connect your meter in place of the light and watch the voltage turn on and off. Then just connect those wires up per the diagram that comes with the lights. You can use a test light but the meter let's you do more detailed testing.
 

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stock front turns have a black ground ,green turn, and blue constant on. Rear lights have black,green, and no blue because they are not constant on. Most of the aftermatket signals i have seen for sale have only two wires. Im not sure but you can wire them to be either turn(flash)or constant on.i have not seen any led to be both turn and constant on,to be turn and constant on you need a two filiment bulb.
 

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No it's not grounded in the bracket it's grounded from the black wire I. The headlight. It sounds like your connection is backwards on your LEDs. I'd be willing to bet that give got your negative to positive and positive to negative. Hence why it lit when you connected it to constant on and flash. The flash grounds out when there's no power...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the reply Havoc... getting a guide and/or a multi-meter would be ideal but I'm already trying to find the funds to get the flasher. I'm pretty sure the flasher was bad before I ever touched anything because the neutral light and turn indicators on the "dash" never worked.

I don't normal just plug stuff in and see what happens but I figured since they're just lights - it wouldn't be a big deal. Hard to burn up an LED and even regular bulbs are pretty resilient with only a 12v power supply.

But yeah, as per wiring diagrams... the colors I mentioned seem to be right from what I've read though I haven't actually had the chance to look at them. I'm just going off of what I've read.

No wiring diagram for my aftermarket lights. I guess they assume I should be able to figure out two wires. They happen to be green and blue.

My problem was that I hadn't considered the fact that the lights are probably grounded to the mounting bracket and that they have a constant "on" with an added "flash" when activated. I need a new flasher before I can do anything else.
 

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are you saying the stock setup is grounded out at the mounting points or your aftermarket setup.

Also, LEDs will blow way faster that an average auto bulb hands down if wired backwards all day long. Don't believe go to radio shack get some wire them up reverse to a 12volt source and watch how long it lives...

I would call the manufacturer you got the lights from ask them what is hot and what is negative and confirm you have them wired right. Like I said before they lit when you hooked them up to both power sources in the bucket but no flash. I bet you have it backwards a simple take the ground you thought was ground and connect it to the ground and the other end to the flash. Also, so you know this if you have re-wired the lights to pull like a normal 12 volt source you will get an all 4 flash or no flash and all on or all off with no light. The amps the LED will pull is much lower and tosses it all out of the water.

I put led bulbs in my 1100 on the front already running them on the rear I got all 4 flash unhooked one that entire side no longer worked but the other did. Put in the regular bulb everything worked fine just hyper flash from the LEDs on the back end. I like the hyper flash anyway so I don't feel like dealing with it.

http://www.650ccnd.com/mods/flasher.htm

http://650ccnd.com/webslinger/Mods/Lighting/VStar650DiodeMod.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I think the aftermarket turn signals are grounded on the bracket.

I tried every which way - they only turned on the one way.

I don't have the original lights. The PO didn't have turn signals. Used arm signals.

Now that's one thing I had forgotten... about how the entire side my not work if both front and rear lights aren't hooked up because of the drawl problem. I have a bunch of random bulbs on pigtails.... I'll grab a regular bulb and use it for testing purposes. That will help.

Still have to get a new relay though before I can test anything. :(
 

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Try to find a three wire plug tail for testing. Salvage tards work great for those I have a few I paid 5 for. Who's the make on your new set?
 

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Thanks for the reply Havoc... getting a guide and/or a multi-meter would be ideal but I'm already trying to find the funds to get the flasher. I'm pretty sure the flasher was bad before I ever touched anything because the neutral light and turn indicators on the "dash" never worked.

I don't normal just plug stuff in and see what happens but I figured since they're just lights - it wouldn't be a big deal. Hard to burn up an LED and even regular bulbs are pretty resilient with only a 12v power supply.

But yeah, as per wiring diagrams... the colors I mentioned seem to be right from what I've read though I haven't actually had the chance to look at them. I'm just going off of what I've read.

No wiring diagram for my aftermarket lights. I guess they assume I should be able to figure out two wires. They happen to be green and blue.

My problem was that I hadn't considered the fact that the lights are probably grounded to the mounting bracket and that they have a constant "on" with an added "flash" when activated. I need a new flasher before I can do anything else.
Well like I said you can download the schematics online, the diagram for the lights should have come with them otherwise again hit Google with the part number and a meter can be had for free from harbor freight with a coupon in most car or bike magazines or online. You can even get a nifty little flashlight with it. I shouldn't have to point out the fact after you mentioned that you view the fuse and burned the flasher that yes lights are delicate. The filaments on incandescent are very thin, the traces and resistors on LEDs are even more delicate. Toast those and you either have to know you soldering or you have a paperweight. Old timers used to use a 12v battery a pair of jumper cables and a nickel to weld body panels so there is plenty of power in a 12v system. I don't mean to get down on you but for the cost of a trip to the tool store you could have been done with no damage. You can easily test to see if the led is grounded to the mounting bracket with an ohm meter. Every tool box should have a multimeter working on anything after 1970. But at least search for for the diagram online using the part number for your lights. This is getting way more complicated than it should be.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ugh - flasher

Yeah well, got the new flasher today... nothing changed. At least before I was getting the neutral light to pop on. Now, nothing like after the first flasher burned up.

I'll keep playing with it and let you know what I come up with but so far still only getting the lights to stay "on" and not getting any flashing.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok... so, got the muti-meter out and it confirms what I was trying to say.

The FRONT turn signal wiring doesn't make sense.

Still waiting on reply from seller regarding their wiring diagram BUT it's two freaking wires. Come on.

So, the light meter pops on in these combinations... whether reversed or not.

Blue+Black=Steady Power
Blue+Green=Steady Power
Blue+Brown=Steady Power

Brown+Black=Nothing (even when turn switch is activated)
Green+Black=Nothing (even when turn switch is activated)

Green+Brown=Nothing (only did this for argument's sake)

Still no neutral light. Still no flashing sounds. No longer popping fuses either.

Also noticed that rear running lights do not get brighter when the brakes are activated. So I'm guessing the wiring on this thing is freaking fubar'd. Ugh!
 

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Yeah well, got the new flasher today... nothing changed. At least before I was getting the neutral light to pop on. Now, nothing like after the first flasher burned up.

I'll keep playing with it and let you know what I come up with but so far still only getting the lights to stay "on" and not getting any flashing.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Putco-Aluminum-LED-load-resistor-kit/_/N-2659?itemIdentifier=505012_0_0_

I think I may have found your problem. I wired led strips down the frame on my bobber for blinkers stealthy but still signals to the rear at least. I kept the fronts unhooked...

Wired them up and either got no flash all flash or on depending on what was running if I hookd the right side up only they would simply stay on left side only flash. Both both flashed...

I remember when I tried to slap led bulbs in the front of my 1100 I got the all flash issue as well... So I but the incandiecents back in and they work each side just fine.

The problem is the LEDs don't pull enough current and the bike thinks there is a burnt bulb or no bulb at all...

So on my 650 I pulled the headlight out and got the wiring from the old turn signal bulb cut off the bullet terminals and wired the brown bullet to one side of the resistor and the black to the other plugged them straight in as I didn't plan on ruunning a bulb up front. vice versa for the green and black other side all using the stock harness.

Low and behold the rears now blink now correctly and if I want I can slap some leds up front as well and it will be all fine.

I bet you those bad boys are positive negative only and nothing else. Who did you buy them from?
 
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