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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All!

So, I've already done a lot of searching, and there are lots of posts that reference this issue or one similar to it. I wanted to start my own thread in hopes of detailing my steps towards a resolution and provide as much help to our members as possible. I also plan to provide a video of what's happening as that may help other members properly diagnose the issue. I'm going to separate this post into two sections (one for each zone so to speak), Exhaust and Carburetor. A brief description of my current issues is that when giving the bike more than 1/4 throttle it begins to bog down, it will accelerate, but sluggishly and sounds like one of the cylinders isn't firing. If less than 1/4 throttle it will sputter/jump around like it's trying to catch. Also, the bike came with Hard Krome Sideburner 2-1 Exhaust. I Love the way it looks, but the decel pop is pretty annoying. Post #2 will be for Carburetor and will be updated with steps taken and their results. Post #3 will be for Exhaust and will mirror post #2. All Questions will be in RED and Answers will be in Black.

Thanks for reading and I look forward to your responses and helping out the community!

eGo
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Carburetor Symptoms and Steps to Resolution

Symptoms

Bike bogs down when more than 1/4 Throttle is applied.
Bike sputters/jumps when less than 1/4 Throttle is applied.
Bike idles correctly when stopped.
Bike idles at high RPM when moving. (Somebody recently fixed this and I cannot find the thread to save my life)

What steps should be taken besides cleaning and rebuilding the carbs?

What is the adjustment to the clutch regarding the high idle when moving?

I keep reading directions about adjusting/testing the TPS. It says to rotate it, I haven't found any videos showing the process, could somebody expand on this process?

Should I Rejet my carbs to accommodate the Hard Krome Sideburner exhaust?

Jet for the hardchromes you only go up one size. Stock main jets are 110 in the rear and 112 in the front, put the 112 in the rear and buy a 115 for the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Exhaust Symptoms

Exhaust pops on Deceleration

Should I rejet the carbs while I have them apart for cleaning to accommodate the Hard Krome Sideburner? If so, what size jets?

Jet for the hardchromes you only go up one size. Stock main jets are 110 in the rear and 112 in the front, put the 112 in the rear and buy a 115 for the front.

Should I remove the AIS or adjust the PMS?

If you turn the PMS screw out a quarter turn you will get rid of the popping on decel.

Are there any negative effects to removing/bypassing the AIS?

If you have aftermarket pipes there are no negative effects from removing the AIS.
 

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you have to much going on for my noggin to comprehend.
so forget the hypercharger for now,if you jet for the hardchromes you only go up one size.stock main jets are110 in the rear and 112 in the front,put the 112 in the rear and buy a 115 for the front.
if you turn the pms screw out a quarter turn you will get rid of the popping on decel.
if you have aftermarket pipes there are no negative effects from removing the ais.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
you have to much going on for my noggin to comprehend.
so forget the hypercharger for now,if you jet for the hardchromes you only go up one size.stock main jets are110 in the rear and 112 in the front,put the 112 in the rear and buy a 115 for the front.
if you turn the pms screw out a quarter turn you will get rid of the popping on decel.
if you have aftermarket pipes there are no negative effects from removing the ais.
Thanks for the response, Nick! I appreciate the info. I will modify my original posts accordingly.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
if you turn the pms screw out a quarter turn you will get rid of the popping on decel.
One question about this, I'm assuming I need to turn the PMS on BOTH carbs, not just one? It makes sense that they would both need to be turned, but I don't want to assume.. Here's hoping that the plugs were already removed. Don't want to pull the carbs if I don't have to.

TIA!

eGo
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-KrKk_YXL4Tdm5OU1I4S2pMUFE/edit the hardest part of jetting is removing the float bowl screws there soft and strip easily their not phillips head their called gis.good luck getting a gis screwdriver.(others chime in now).Read the kb section on tuning everything is in there.
Thank You! That will prove to be very helpful! :) And I actually do have the gis bits already. I used to install phones for a prison, had to use the security screws on everything. :) You can actually buy the bits at AutoZone or Harbor Freight cheaply.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Alright, so this morning I bypassed the AIS and pulled the plugs.. It is obvious to me that the front cylinder is NOT firing. So I'm going to test the coil now, hoping it's just a bad coil and not the CDI.. ;\ I have already tested the stator and the rectifier is brand new. I will get to the bottom of this! lol

Front Cylinder :



Rear Cylinder :

 

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Discussion Starter #10
And, we have a bad coil! Failed on both the primary and the secondary.. 6.73ohm on the primary and zilch on the secondary.. Now to see if the local dealer has one in stock.. Unless anybody has a cross reference for a part that will work that's "non-dealer"?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok.. So, my local dealer has lost their ever loving mind! Or Yamaha has.. $107 for the coil? You have GOT to be kidding me.. I believe I'll be ordering one from eBay.. No way I'm paying that much... I get that I'm paying for convenience, but that's a little excessive.. And since they don't have it in stock and I'll have to wait anyways.. I might as well save $100...

Does anybody see any reason this coil would not work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Performance-Ignition-Coil-for-Honda-XR200R-XR250R-XR500R-XR-200-250-500-R-/121542175011?fits=Year:1999|Make:Yamaha|Model:V+Star+1100&hash=item1c4c7a6923&vxp=mtr

TIA!

eGo
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You sir, are my new best friend! lol :) I don't know why that didn't show up for me..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i would'nt take a chance on the honda without being 100% sure.
Yah, I didn't.. I usually wait until Monday to buy things so I can sleep on it and make sure no new stuff pops up.. But I bought the one you linked, that was cheap enough I'm not going to wait. haha
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok, so, here's where I stand and what Saturday morning is going to bring.. Pending weather..

Parts Received :

Brake Pads - Front & Rear
Coil Packs - Both Sides
Fuel Petcock Rebuild Kit - En Route for Saturday Delivery

What's been done :

Ok, so I checked the resistance of the new/used coils following the service manual procedures. The original coil was reading 7.2 ohm for the primary coil test. The replacement coil is reading 5.0 ohm which is much better than the original, but still out of spec. I'm curious what other people get when they test the coils and if this is going to be a problem.

When I was going through the process of removing things from the bike to get to the coil packs, my fuel petcock decided it wanted to start leaking no matter what position it was in. So, I ordered a rebuild kit. I'm hoping it shows up early and I can rebuild it one night this week. It would be really nice to be able to throw the bike back together and start it up and verify that the coil has resolved the issue I'm experiencing.

Planning on changing the brake pads Saturday as well. Looks like it's pretty straight forward and a lot easier than changing the brakes on my car.. Well, quicker at least.. No need to remove the tires! :)

Accepting any and all information/tips/criticism..

eGo
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Alrighty.. So, problem still exists.. *sigh*..

Yesterday morning I replaced the coil pack, regapped the plugs, replaced front and rear brake pads, and last night I rebuilt the fuel petcock. This morning I put it all back together. She fired right up as she usually does, let her warm up a bit. Rolled on the throttle and the bogging is still there. So, I'm going to pick up a can of seafoam this afternoon and run that through the tanks and see how it goes. Either way, I have to get the bike inspected this week as my temp tag runs out at the end of the month. Hopefully I can find someplace that's close to work to setup an appointment and get that done. Really hoping the Seafoam gets things cleaned up and fixes the issue. I really don't want to tear it down and pull the carbs unless I absolutely have to. Thanks to all that have given info/ideas. Just going to recap what's been done really quickly for those that don't want to read the entire post...

1.) Replaced R/R
2.) Tested Stator Voltage, within normal limits
3.) Brand New Battery
4.) Replaced Coil
5.) Re-Gapped Plugs

So, after this week we'll know if I have to pull the carbs and give them a good cleaning.. I may do this anyways, I bypassed the AIS and I still have a horrible backfire on decel and need to put some bigger jets in and remove the PMS plugs. Guess I also need to build a carb sync tool.. Fun times to be had this week. At least it's supposed to be raining, so once I get it inspected I won't be missing out on much riding time between getting it fixed.. :)

TIA!

eGo
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Alrighty, got the carburetors pulled and they're pretty dirty.. Well, at least the parts I'm able to see without removing the bowls.. As many have mentioned, the screws on these are SOFT and the previous owner or the one before him (the later is most likely) attempted to rejet the carbs when they bought the HK Sideburners and stripped out one screw on each bowl.. They also managed to strip out the screw that holds the choke cable in place. Just my luck.. So, tomorrow (or some time before Thursday) I'm off to the hardware store to pick up a pair of needle nose vice grips, some carb cleaner and replacement hex head or allen head screws for the bowls.. It would be REALLY nice to get this all back together before Saturday so I can actually get out and experience this bike the way it was meant to be.

Also, since I've got it all torn apart right now, I'm going to do a complete AIS removal as well. Unless somebody can give me a reason that it needs to stay?
 
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