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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I am getting new rubber, taking it off myself and going through the drive splines etc... I am wondering where's the best place to get the moly everyone is saying I should use. $17 for 2.5 oz is a bit steep. I don't know. Then I read that the moly 60 from Honda was just a myth etc... Please help ease my mind. 2002 V-Star 1100 Custom
 

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Moly grease is good if you you don't pay attention to maintenance intervals. If you re-grease the driveshaft and hub clutch splines with every rear tire change you'll be good. Moly is a great dry lubricant so if you allow the grease to dry off or get slung off, then the moly left behind will do it's job in still preventing metal to metal wear. So IMO due diligence and using a good old fashioned grease is all you'll need. I like using marine grease.
 

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There were several theads on this, some for the 650 but its the same on the 1100 - they dont show up on searches, so maybe some of the pages got lost in the last forum glitch.

Read this webpage: 650 CC & D

I got Loctite LB 8012, part number 51048. Its about $30 for an 8oz bottle on amazon.

Yes its expensive. Yes 8 ounces will last you for every motorcycle you own for the rest of your life.

Its referred to as moly paste and anti-seize compound. It has the correct >60% moly formula.

I did not pull the splines apart until my bike hit 35,000 miles on the odo. There is nothing in the 650 owners or service manual that say lubing the splines is a periodic maintenance requirement (like lubing your clutch cable, greasing the steering head and swing axle bearings... that stuff is called out as required, the shaft splines are not.

when I pulled mine apart at 35k miles they looked like new - so whatever was put on them at the factory was doing its stuff. I wiped them all down and used the Loctite 8012.

The biggest thing you have to worry about is taking your bike to a local shop to get the back tire changed. If they wipe the spline moly grease off and put some axle grease on, it will not last 100,000 mile. It may not last 20,000 miles. If you think $30 is expensive, google what it will cost you to replace your splines if the grease runs dry.

If you have ever owned a chain drive motorcycle you know what a pain it can be to keep the chain lubed, and even if you do the rear sprocket wears out anyway, and you will be buying new chains and sprockets over the life of the bike.

The shaft drive is intended to be maintenance free for the life of the bike. Most people pull the splines apart when they change the rear tire, or maybe every other rear tire. Compared to lubing a chain every 500 miles, its a big improvement.
 

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I asked my local dealer about it and they don't use it. It's great stuff, as Diogenes said, but expensive. One thing he did emphasize was to make sure to use a good waterproof grease. Very important. I do mine in the spring and again about midway through the season.
 

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...The biggest thing you have to worry about is taking your bike to a local shop to get the back tire changed...
When I bought the XVS1100 I gave the bike a good 'once over' and found that although the drive splines were lubed and in great shape the rear wheel 'hub/clutch' (according to the parts diagram) was dry, the teeth were worn down halfway and there was metal dust coating the entire inside of the drive hub. Thankfully the hub/clutch is aluminum so it took the brunt of the wear and is an easily replaceable item (like changing a sprocket) so I bought one for $135, replaced it and lubed it up. I guess in short if you have a shop replace the rear tire, it's not guaranteed that they'll also lube everything back up for you so beware.
 

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no sure what you are referring to as the hub/clutch?

the spline that is on the wheel assemble, that stays on the wheel when you pull the final drive off - about 2 1/2" in diameter?

or do you mean the final drive had no 80W gear oil in it?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ordered the tire on Friday, it showed up at home today. Monday!!! Fast shipping. Can't wait to tear into it and then give the bike a thorough riding!!!! Thanks for all your help on that moly stuff.
 

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Apparently the URL is getting abbreviated for some reason but you'll see the part if you go to Bike Bandit's page for 2004 Yamaha V-Star Classic 1100 XVS11AS REAR WHEEL Parts & OEM Diagram
 

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I clicked on the OEM final drive rear wheel... on the left side of the screen and the drawing loaded.

yeah, that is a spline too - I painted the hell out of that one with the moly (it comes with a brush in the can).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Please help. I am having trouble getting the rear part of the shaft out of the “pumpkin”. Any hints or tricks? Thank you.
 

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did you go thru the 650 sequence on the website: 650 CC & D

?

Im pretty sure the 1100 assembly is the same - someone will correct me if its different

the last splined shaft does not pull out of the rear hub - there is nothing inside there to grease, that is in the 80W oil

there is a short female + male part that is about the size of a socket, that will stick on one end or the other - it just pulls off.

Im pretty sure there are no C clips on any of the parts - if you have to start yanking or pounding on something, you are doing something wrong.
 

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couple things when you put it all back together:

dont forget that spline in the center of the hub that goes into the mate in the wheel that Dio was referring to - paint lube on both sides.

and dont forget the spline that goes into the engine output U joint. You dont have to pull the boot off the U joint to lube it, but it makes it easier.

dont forget the spacers that go between the wheel and the frame ( did that - got the wheel in place, axle finger tight, looked down on the floor where the big spacer was lying... DOH!)

and for anyone doing a 650, before you torque the axle up snug, make sure you have the bar on the brake drum housing attached with the bolt, that keeps the drum brake from spinning. If you torque the axle first you will never get that bar to line up. (the 1100 has a rear disk brake, so it does not have that bar).
 

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^ that is a nice write up on the 1100. Between 7 and 8 it says to take the nose off the rear hub assembly to get inside,

but it does not show or say there are two pairs of splines inside the space covered by the nose. Maybe a photo is missing.

I count 4 spline pairs total that need to be pasted / greased.
 

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Who says so? Moly on splines

Some questions and offering some info too. On page 6-59 of a Yamaha service manual I downloaded; Lithium grease is specified for the splines. There is no mention of periodic service intervals, BUT it says Lithium. Where is the documentation that shows Moly is correct or recommended other than internet word of mouth? I looked up the LB 8012 and it says in part: "Formulated to protect assemblies during running-in periods, it resists high static loads and the MoS₂ paste ensures maximum lubricity. It has an NLGI grade of 1 and is resistant to temperatures up to +400°C." To me this is odd info. How long is a run-in period on a motorcycle drive shaft? What is to be used after the run-in period? I am very curious as to where lithium should be replaced with moly comes from. Hope someone knows!
 

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... Lithium grease is specified for the splines. There is no mention of periodic service intervals, BUT it says Lithium. Where is the documentation that shows Moly is correct or recommended other than internet word of mouth?...
I have two manuals for the XVS1100 and one specifies using lithium grease but the other one which is a later version specifies moly grease for the drive shaft splines... my guess is that it may have been revised because of years of drive shaft neglect related failures.

The diagrams I posted were from the most recent manual and if you notice the grease-gun looking icon with the letter 'M', that indicates where they now suggest using moly grease.
 

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I've been using lithium grease without problems on my 650. I apply in both sides of the shaft, on the u-joint at the engine, all the splines as well. I do the same thing each 10.000km or each tyre repair (or any other thing that requires the removal of the rear wheel).
 
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