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Discussion Starter #1
Men! Hey I completely forgot about this but ever since I've had my Vstar 650 and recently acquired a Royal Star 1300, I've used full synthetic Castrol oil on them both and have never had any problems with either of the clutches slipping or acting up. And my cousin mentioned it needed to to have that JASO etc. stamp for certain types? Any thoughts or suggestions? Tried looking this up but didn't find the info I needed. Thanks...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I remember researching the additives a long time ago and completely forgot. Thank you sir for verifying.
 

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I've used Shell Rotella T and Rotella T6 in several of my bikes. While it is primarily used in diesel engines, it exceeds all motorcycle mfg recommendations, is JASO, and works with wet clutch. There are many, many bikers I know of that use this oil in their bikes.

The primary difference between the two is the "T" is a 15w40 and the "T6" is 5w40

Just did a lookup on these and it appears the "T" has now been renamed to "T4" and doesn't show it as a synthetic although it is JASO

The T5 is synthetic but I did not see a JASO for it.

You should do your own research on this. FWIW (and I'm sure some would disagree), a 5w40 can still be used in warmer climates.

I stopped using Rotella when I bought my Victory XCT in 2013 and switched to Amsoil 10w40 "Victory" specific. I found things seemed to work better with it in the Vic. I did try the Rotella for appx 5,000 kms.

Here are some links...

http://rotella.shell.com/products/t6-full-synthetic/_jcr_content/par/textimage_1335213348.stream/1388525673850/2c4570ceb0dcc96c0e045d7d6f3c7796f77a84ed6a3d6752bb50d245468c48b2/rotella-t6-brochure.pdf

http://rotella.shell.com/products/rotella-triple-protection/_jcr_content/productDetails.stream/1468983609465/9cbdab6b7cde6ea1e3f64140d323e0b2f8b625c76bf5e556f894255eee4caad9/1135838-a07-rot16-t4-brochure-v2-shell

http://rotella.shell.com/products/t5/_jcr_content/productDetails.stream/1468986031518/428915b948b0abd9effd30b8dda8433b73ff82b7a1b1f0c96621e796936957b3/a06-rot16-t5-brochure-v2-shell-1135838

Shell ROTELLA® T5 Synthetic Blend Heavy Duty Engine Oil | Shell ROTELLA®
 

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Nick57, you link spells it out nicely.

I have been buying 'motorcycle oil' for my 650 and its about $1 more per quart.

Not falling for that any more - thanks.
 

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from the link "Most any 10W40 through 20W50 oil will do as long as it does not contain friction modifiers."

anyone else find it funny that motorcycle oil cost more, because it does NOT contain friction modifiers?
What do they do, put them in, then take them back out?!

I never knew the certification label had that info on the bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
SilvrT - I do use Rotela in my xs650 and works beautifully...sooo in theory it being JASO, it could also be used in most wet clutch motors?

Yeah Nick57 that write up was great!
 

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I have two bikes. I run T6 in both. The V-Star 650 I bought in April and a Honda 1800 VTX. I've run T6 in the Honda for over 10,000 miles. The VTX is known to slip the factory clutch early in life and I've never slipped it, even when taking off hard enough to spin the 60 series car radial I run on the back.

It may have had a high performance clutch put in it though before I bought it, but as said, not a bit of slip no matter how hard I ride.

I'd not hesitate to recommend it to anyone that wants to go full synthetic.
 

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Wet clutch. Just never figured a diesel oil could be used in a newer bike! Hmm.
So the question is... what makes an oil a "diesel oil"???

Answer: the service rating would be my guess and that rating exceeds anything listed for a motorcycle. So the conclusion is if the rating meets or exceeds what is recommended, then why not use it ... why would it not work?

(just my opinion)
 

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I did a lot of research on this when I got my 950T.
Motorcycle oil is a big myth. Lots of independent oil tests out there to read up on.There are some rules to follow though.
Dont's: Fuel efficient oils for cars which is basically mostly oils 30 weight and under. They are designed for high efficiency car specs.

Do: High quality car oils 5w40 and heavier. Synthetics! Absolutely! More life and protection than conventional oils.
Top brands that exceed in test better than anything else as tested in motorcycles: 1) Mobile 1 15w50 and any other Mobile 1 suitable weights. Their motorcycle oil is very good too but for the money I would just get the car oil. Nothing else even touched it when you research enough sites that aren't biased and do multiple types of tests relevant to motorcycles.

However extremely good oils include Castrol Edge. I use 5w40 in cool weather and 5w50 in summer heat. HUGE difference in gearbox shifting with this oil over regular 10w40. So smooth. Better clutch action too.
Valvoline was good. Amzoil okay. Most motorcycle oils have the same additives as their brand in car oils, but usually cost more.
Specific motorcycle oils came out underperforming top car oils, in motorbikes!

However the best advice is this: testing shows the biggest stress on your oil is - your geabox shearing the oil between the teeth of the gears. This causes premature viscosity breakdown, shortening the life of your oil to half of in your car.
I'm following testing recommendations of 2000 miles for conventional and max 4000 miles for my synthetic. Your oil at those mileages have been degraded to 10 points lower from the shearing effect. Making 10w40 a 10w30 and so on.
So frequency of change is more important than brands.
I put on 3000 miles on conventional before switching to synthetic, allowing for proper break in before going full syn.
One such site with good explanations, I didn't find the really good test site yet comparing the top car vs motorcycle oils. I will post if I find it.

http://www.sportrider.com/oils-well-that-ends
 
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