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I just bought a 2000 Roadstar 1600 a few months ago, was told the gauge was stuck, ran seafoam in it, nothing, took the tank off, traced the wiring from the lead to back of tank, (green plug), traced it up front to the end of the plug and it's just hanging there, nothing to plug into. Anyone know how the wire tied into the gauge cluster or have a wire diagram of it? Thanks for any help.
James
 

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I just bought a 2000 Roadstar 1600 a few months ago, was told the gauge was stuck, ran seafoam in it, nothing, took the tank off, traced the wiring from the lead to back of tank, (green plug), traced it up front to the end of the plug and it's just hanging there, nothing to plug into. Anyone know how the wire tied into the gauge cluster or have a wire diagram of it? Thanks for any help.
James

Sorry dont know about the wiring however the Roadies are notorious for having bad sending units.
 

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I just bought a 2000 Roadstar 1600 a few months ago, was told the gauge was stuck, ran seafoam in it, nothing, took the tank off, traced the wiring from the lead to back of tank, (green plug), traced it up front to the end of the plug and it's just hanging there, nothing to plug into. Anyone know how the wire tied into the gauge cluster or have a wire diagram of it? Thanks for any help.
James
You still have a socket coming from the wiring harness on the bike, that the socket from the tank can plug into right? If so, you've got what you're supposed to. The other end of the wire attached to the tank goes to the sending unit that is actually inside the tank.

Mine took a dump on me too. As was mentioned, it's a real common problem. The unit is only $30ish dollars, but I don't know how to do it myself. I suspect it would be a good hundred plus to have the dealer let me out with an install. Check in at Roadstarclinic.com. There are some threads related to faulty fuel senders.

Personally, I just went back to the tried and true method of watching the tripometer. I would start sputtering for reserve right at 180 miles, like clockwork. After that much riding I was always ready for a little break anyway.

 

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Mine is starting to do this with about 11K. Sometimes it works after a fill up, sometimes it don't. I'm also just relying on the odometer.
 

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Well...... My fuel gauge went out.

My fuel gauge went out , do I took it to the shop using my extended warranty . They replaced a fuel sensor but the gauge reading is incorrect.
 

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I've heard the units sometimes respond better after disconnecting the battery for a little while. On the order of 10 minutes. Although if I had an extended warranty I'd probably just press the shop that replaced the sender on this issue.
 

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The sending unit I bleive is 2 10mm screws and its out. Put the new one in and your done. Get some plastic tube same size as the gas line coming out of the petcock and drain the tank into a gas tank at home. The unit will dump gas in it if its not empty.

Maybe about an hour maybe two if your not familiar with your bikes tank being off. The roadstar is so much easier to pull than the 1100s as well. Two 10mm sockets pulls out take the dash plate off and unplug or move aside and just pull the tank back and straight up and out.
 

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If you go on roadstarclinic,com, there is a very detailed procedure to clean the leads in the fuel sending unit. Requires disassembly, but not hard to do. You have to clean the leads with a pencil eraser and get rid of the accumulated gunk.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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You still have a socket coming from the wiring harness on the bike, that the socket from the tank can plug into right? If so, you've got what you're supposed to. The other end of the wire attached to the tank goes to the sending unit that is actually inside the tank.

Mine took a dump on me too. As was mentioned, it's a real common problem. The unit is only $30ish dollars, but I don't know how to do it myself. I suspect it would be a good hundred plus to have the dealer let me out with an install. Check in at Roadstarclinic.com. There are some threads related to faulty fuel senders.

Personally, I just went back to the tried and true method of watching the tripometer. I would start sputtering for reserve right at 180 miles, like clockwork. After that much riding I was always ready for a little break anyway.

you get 180 to the tank? must be nice, mine took a dump as well and i can barely get 140 from the whole tank
 

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i took and replaced mine a few months ago, it lasted about 4 months and started doing the same thing, its a smple plug and play installation, 2 little screws under the tank and the electrical hookup, the old one slides right out and the new one goes back in the exact same way, there are $50 on ebay right now., ive attempted to clean the old one out with carb and chocke cleaner but the sensors just keep gumming up, i think its just a design flaw with these sending units as they use a tube on the inside thats plastic
 

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you get 180 to the tank? must be nice, mine took a dump as well and i can barely get 140 from the whole tank
The mileage definitely depends on my average speed. It'll fall quite a bit if I'm running 75-80 on the highway. If you're averaging 140 miles per tank when running around 60, you might be a little rich. Do your plugs look good?
 

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The mileage definitely depends on my average speed. It'll fall quite a bit if I'm running 75-80 on the highway. If you're averaging 140 miles per tank when running around 60, you might be a little rich. Do your plugs look good?
i have a 42mm carb with baron big air kit, custom pipes, just did the plugs the other day and they looked just fine, i change them every 3k miles for performance sakes.

i guess the sound and performance increase is a price to pay on the gas millage, i average 33 miles to the gallon highway
 

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Well I'm a little jealous of your carb, but I'm curious. Do you change your plugs more often than your oil, or do you change your oil really often? I pull 5,000 out of a synthetic change, but my bike isn't built up like yours. Sounds like your's is performing exactly as expected!
 

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i change my plugs every 2-3k miles and my oil from 5-6k with mobile 1 full synthetic, the carb was actually a very easy and somewhat inexpensive upgrade, that was the reason i got the baron air kit as it bolted right up to it instead of trying to figure out how to make the old air box fit the larger opening.
 
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