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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Folks,

I just got a set of Hard Krome 3" Res Tech pipes (black) for my 03 Vstar 650. My question revolves around what else needs to be done. Based on the Hard Krome website, it is advised to rejet with the Dynojet kit which is no problem. What I am unsure of is the air intake. Do I need some kind of intake kit? Just a better flow K&N type filter? A mod of the current intake?

Any guidance would be appreciated. I have done some work on bikes but I haven't dealt with exhaust, rejets, or intakes before.
 

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Check out the Performance section here.

http://www.650ccnd.com/

and try to stay away from Dynojet kits they are about $100, stick with Mikuni jets for your mikuni carbs they are about $5 each and you need 2.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Check out the Performance section here.

http://www.650ccnd.com/

and try to stay away from Dynojet kits they are about $100, stick with Mikuni jets for your mikuni carbs they are about $5 each and you need 2.
Thanks. So rather than drop $80+ on a Dynojet kit, all I really need is the appropriate size $5 Mikuni main jets depending on the type of air mod. Leave the stock pilot and a couple of shims with the stock needle?
 

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Yep pretty much. If you have a caliper you can substitute #4 stainless washers for the shims. You just have to upsize the hole to .125 (1/8") and match the thickness between washers. you'll prob need 125.0 mains (2). you can also eliminate the third filter and go the pcv route. like I did.

http://s770.photobucket.com/albums/xx345/Fulltilt1/V-Star/

the lines attach to the existing crankcase vent. Much cleaner than oil vapor coating your engine and the assoc. dirt/dust sticking to it.
 

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The initial owner of my 03 1100 custom had Hard Krome Ds and a jet kit installed. The thing runs like a scaped ape and sounds really good. Not deafening but fun in tunnels and tight overpasses. : )
 

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Marc, I'd go with the GAK, You'll see a tad more power with the Hyper-Charger but it's way more expensive.. Also I'd replace the screws from the Float bowls, they are soft and prone to stripping. You can get internal hex head stainless ones at Ace Hardware (they have a better selection than the big box stores, great for chrome hardware also). Also you'll need to sync the carbs. Bench sync them first to get them close (the throttle plates even). Then idle sync them when finished. All these things are easy once you've done them. Just read carefully and ask questions if needed.

DIY Sync Tool:

http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/VStar1100-FAQ-05.htm#DIY-Mano
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'd go with the GAK, You'll see a tad more power with the Hyper-Charger but it's way more expensive.. Also I'd replace the screws from the Float bowls, they are soft and prone to stripping. You can get internal hex head stainless ones at Ace Hardware (they have a better selection than the big box stores, great for chrome hardware also).
That was going to be my next question to see if anyone had preferences. From what I read, the GAK seems to be pretty straight forward with the most bang for the buck. HC and BAK are pretty pricey and the RAK seems like a lot of cutting for less performance.

No ACE Hardware up here in Canada, but I am sure I will be able to find it online somewhere as well. Or I will just have to make a visit down to WA.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, I have received the pipes (they're pretty), I have the pod filters and crankcase breather for the GAK, waiting on the main jets in the mail. Now looking for the float bowl screws/bolts as I understand its inevitable that they will be butchered if not requiring extraction by force. Anyone know the sizes required? Best I can figure out is I need some 4mm, pitch 0.7 in 10mm and 12mm. Can anyone confirm?
 

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If they are the same as the 1100, which also has Mikuni Carbs. Then they are M4 x .7 x 10mm in length. If you have any add-ons ie hose/tube guides you'll need longer 12mm for that one or ones.
 
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