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Discussion Starter #1
2006 XVS 1100 custom I put new oem handlebars on, old ones were bent when I bought the bike. Bike was running fine until I switched the handlebars. checked the wires and did not see any loose wires or bare wires. also, tried starting bike and it won't start, just clicks. Battery was being drained, charged it overnight and still not starting, ugh.
 

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Make sure the kill switch is on. It's easy to hit it without realizing it. When you hit the starter button what happens? How long did the bike sit? If headlight is blowing fuse check the headlight bucket, most of headlight and turn signal wiring is there. Many connections are slip connectors and can be pulled loose easily and ground out. Maybe when you were changing the bars you pulled a little hard on the wiring harness. Also check the battery ground to frame. It's a common place for corrosion, take off and clean, don't trust that it looks good. Post back anything else you find.
 

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The bike sat for 2 weeks, cold weather here also. Once I finished the handlebar install it cranked but did not stay running, that is when I noticed the headlight was not working turn signals, brake light and horn work. now when starting I hear the fuel pump start then press start button and it just clicks. haven't check the ground to the bike, I will. I checked the headlight bucket, I will double check again. The bulb is good. Thanks for your help.
 

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I would start with load test on battery, ground to frame, then wiring coming out of switch (could be pinched) then headlight bucket. Battery can seem good but not enough to supply starter with full voltage.
 

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Nearly always, when a bike was running and you changed something, and now there is a problem, then somewhere in the process of the change you made something got pulled or pinched or stretched, in this case maybe a wire got stripped when you pulled it thru an opening.

You may have to go back and take the handgrips off with the switches and wires and inspect everything for exposed insulation or stretched (broken) wires.

Do you have a way to charge the battery back up, and do you have a volt/ohm meter to check for wire connectivity, and shorts to ground (the frame) ?
 

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you did not mention, did you replace the headlight fuse and it blew again? did you leave the blown fuse in there, bypass it so there is no fuse now?

whenever you work on the handlbars or adjust them or move the grips/mirrors around, you have to check the wires, the hose to the front brake caliber, the speedo cable, and move the handlebars stop to stop left and right, to make sure nothing got hooked into anyplace where its going to snag or pull, and either keep you from being able to steer stop to stop, or stressing a cable or hose if you do.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
took the grips back off and double checked the connections, look good. pulled the headlight out again, connections are good. I put the battery on trickle charge for now and will check everything again later. I put a new fuse in for the headlight again, something is draining the battery, can't find my volt/ohm meter, ugh. Thank you all for the tips.
 

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a $10 meter from walmart is better than nothing

take the black lead off the battery, with everything turned off, if you measure 12V between the disconnected battery lead, and the battery terminal, then something is conducting power to the frame.

a quick and dirty test is to swipe the disconnected ground wire on the battery terminal when the battery is charged and everything on the bike is turned off. If you see any spark, something is drawing power.

if you see a spark, do not reconnect the ground wire to the battery until you find out where that short is.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I found the short that was blowing the headlight fuse, it was a wire that was attached to the license frame lights! put the battery on trickle charger for the night, hopefully a full charge will get it running again.
 

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Great news. From handlebars to tail light, that would have been hard to diagnose. Had you recently been working on tail lights? Keep us posted on results after battery is charged.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yeah, when I was cleaning the bike waiting on the handle bars to come in, I connected the wires hanging down by the license plate light. I should have checked them first.

Battery is good, bike just won't kick over. turn the key and can hear clicking but nothing cranking. ugh.
 

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Just wondering how you tested the battery? From past experience clicking is normally caused from: low/defective battery, faulty battery connection, bad starter solenoid or bad starter, in that order. All can be tested. Please post your testing procedure so far and results so maybe we can assist.
 

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Quote from repair manual: If a starter solenoid receives insufficient power from the battery, it will fail to start the motor, and may produce a rapid clicking sound. The lack of power can be caused by a low battery, by corroded or loose connections in the battery cable, or by a damaged positive (red) cable from the battery.

Best to have battery load tested, any auto parts house can provide this service, normally free.

To test using meter:

Load Test the Battery

Your local automotive shop is more than able to load test your battery for you. But it's quite easy to do at home. All you need is a digital voltmeter. For any load test to be accurate, the battery must be fully charged. Let's use a motorcycle battery for an example:

Remove the seat and expose the battery in your bike so that you have access to the terminals. Do not disconnect the battery because you will attempt to start the bike.
Hold the prongs of you voltmeter to the correct terminals on the battery.
Now push the start button and watch what the voltage drops to. It doesn't matter if the bike starts or not, what you're looking for is a voltage reading.
A healthy 12 volt motorcycle battery should maintain a range from 9.5 - 10.5 volts under the load for a good 30 seconds straight. If the battery begins to hold and then steadily drops in voltage, there is a problem. If the voltage instantly drops to 0 volts, that is also a problem. We call this the open cell. On a new battery, this can be a result of manufacturing flaws, but it also may be caused by sulfate crystal buildup.

DC Voltage

Under the intense heat of the load, one or more of the weld pieces connecting the cells is coming loose and separating. This will cut the current, and voltage will drop. When the battery cools off, the pieces will touch, barely giving a complete connection. This gives you a false voltage reading. Batteries with open cells may read fully charged in idle, but they fail under a load test every time. Once a battery reaches this point, there is no going back. The best thing to do is recycle the thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
THANK YOU all for the help. Looks like it is the starter relay, ordered a new one. Also bought a new volt meter, couldn't find my old one. Noting wrong with more tools, haha
 

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nice looking bike

if your phone is flipping the photos when you post them, put them on a laptop, open them with any photo viewer, and when its rotated (or showing the right way by itself) save it with a different filename. Then if you post that new file it should orient correctly.

Is the muffler on the front cylinder painted to match the colors on the bike, or is that heat tempered? That usually indicates the cylinder was running very rich, pumped out extra fuel into the exhaust, where it then burned in the muffler making it heat temper/rainbow like that. It can also happen if you ride the bike a long way and keep the choke pulled out.

How does it run with that hypercharger? They can be difficult to tune. Usually the engine will run well at thruway speeds, but when you slow down or let the bike idle, since the air is no longer being rammed in it tends to run rich at slower speeds. You can pick jets to run well at high speeds, but not both.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The pipes are blue from the heat. Bought the bike in December, yes runs a little rough while idling, cruising no problems. I've only put 15 miles on the bike so far. Had to replace the handlebars and relay switch. I tried deleting the pic and reposting, but thanks for the tip for the garage. Bike only has 7200 miles on it.
 
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