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Discussion Starter #1
Hello!

My name is Adam and I live in Ottawa, Ontario. I've been riding motorcycles since 2003. My first bike was a 1995 Kawasaki EX500 I rode for 2 years. My last bike was an 2005 Yamaha YZF-R6T which I bought brand new, rode for 10 years and sold 2 years ago. I was recently gifted a 2008 Vstar 1100 Classic from my father. It's been heavily modified cosmetically. More than you'd think necessary for the very low amount of Km's on the odo. It was also put away wet and had been sitting in storage for 3 years. Needless to say, there is/was a lot of work to do to get it running which I started work on last week. So far I've cleaned out the carbs, resolved a rusty gas tank and changed the oil. It started up on second try but had a hard time idling without the choke on. I would turn the choke down and it would stall out so I left idling with the choke partially on to burn the gunk out. It's seems to be getting better and hopefully sitting for a couple days with Seafoam in the fresh fuel that's been run through it will help more. I've also increased the idle speed a bit so now it will idle with the choke off and was even able to ride it (first gear only) around the front (gravel) laneway.

I have a few questions to ask but can't yet post in the other sections of the site. What do I have to do to post elsewhere?

Failing that, I"m going to ask my first question here. In my profile, I've uploaded a picture of my handlebars looking down. They are crooked. My Dad confessed he dropped it once at a low speed. I'm guessing that's how they became the way they are now. I loosened the riser bolts and retightened them but it didn't help. The triple and the front wheel are inline so I do not believe the forks are bent. The bars are T-bar drag bars so don't use a separate riser. They bolt directly to the triple. Are they bent or is there some other possible issue causing this? I live about 2hrs from my Dad's which is where the bike currently is so I can't go out and check at my leisure. Once i get it running solid, I'll ride it back home where I can attened to the smaller details that need attention. I'm mostly looking for idea of what to check for when I do get back down there and can do some more work on it. I"m sure I can ride it with the crooked bars, but they will drive me batty everytime I look down.

thanks in advance.
 

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my brother dropped my dirt bike and sprained his ankle (years ago). He bent the handlebars about an inch up on one side.

I couldnt stand my nice new IT175 being.. deformed. I bought new handlebars for it.

sounds like you are doing all the right things to the bike - post photos when you can.

the VS1100 is a great bike.
 

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Hi Adam!
Welcome to the forum from East Tennessee. I agree that it appears you’re doing all the right things to get it back on the road. Sounds like you may have to go with a new pair of handlebars. Can’t wait to see some pics of your new to you bike. Glad you joined us!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Welcome from the Maritimes, Adam. It sounds like you're on the right track but I have to agree with the others that you'll probably need to replace those handlebars. Now that you've posted in the new member forum you'll be able to post in other forums. Love to see some pics too!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the welcome. Actually, its comforting to know the consensus is bent bars since those are easily replaceable. Too bad though because they were nice looking. However, I wouldnt mind some with a bit more pull back anyway. Maybe mini apes or even the stock bars. Tough call.
 

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Super Moderator "Loose Nut"
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Great looking bike. Looks like good progress getting it road worthy.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks. It looks better than its condition is. In additon to having been dropped and given bent bars and also sitting wet in storage for three years filling with gas rot and rust, it looks like someone spray painted nearby as there is fine white mist covering all the top surfaces. Good news is that elbow grease and some thinner takes it off. More serious, after reading some threads about clunking, Im thinking that the previous owner...yes..my Dad.... Did not know about not revving it when starting and think the starter clutch may be worn. Needs more diagnoses. Iirc, the clunk heppens when it stalls out, or almost stalls out before i blip the throttle, but not so much on start up.
 

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these bikes always look better without the stock maxiPad passenger seat

a bike set up for solo riding is a statement in itself: you wanna go for a motorcycle ride? get your own!

I dont know if that clunk is a sign of impending failure or not. The 650 does not have the same starter clutch issues as the 1100, but my 650 has always gone CLUNK! when I turn the engine off. Never gave it a second thought - 40,000 miles on the bike now.

Unless someone with an 1100 says otherwise, I would not worry about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I think your right. I was back down at my Dad's yesterday and was able to test it some more.

It doesn't really clunk unusually anymore. I think it's normal. However, there IS still a problem. I have to let it warm up longer than I should before I can fully shut the choke off. Once it warmed up. It starts up on first turn of the engine. Out on the road, it's very low on power and when I give it full throttle, it seems to surge like it's starving of fuel or bogging down. I'm going to have to check all the usual suspects. Plugs (which I haven't changed yet and will today), TPS, Fuel Cutoff Solenoid. I was thinking that perhaps the Fuel Pump isnt flowing enough. It's flowing I know because I tested it before putting the bike back together after the carb clean. But is it flowing enough???

Any ideas?

Vaccuum leak? How do I test that and where exactly do I test it?
 

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I read back on everything you have done so far. Take a look at the air filter. If its not white like paper, then leave it out and take a ride and see if that lets the bike breathe. If the bike comes alive you need a new air filter.

I was shocked the first time I replaced the air filter on my 650 - it was about 20,000 miles and it was grey. The bike came alive with the new filter, it just growled with joy at 55mph in 4th gear WFO.

The bike is only 10 years old, I would not think your vacuum lines are falling apart. Make sure the caps for the vacuum gauge attachment (for balanceing the carbs) are in place, and the crankcase breather hose to the valve cover is good. You can spray WD40 around the intake manifold to see if the idle changes. The intake manifold tubes on the bottom of the carbs to the heads may look cracked and crinkly, but that is just the outer layer of plastic - there is another layer inside the tube that almost never cracks - that is the material that is keeping the air seal. Dont freak out if you spot this.

Letting the bike sitting and idling with the choke on partway is a bit sketchy. You would not normally do that - start the bike up, push the choke in half way while you check your lights and mirrors, then push it in a little more to get the idle down to 1200 RPM, then ride off. When you are about 1 km down the road you should be able to push the choke in all the way. It may take another couple km till the bike idles normally at red lights (it might sound a little slow). Dont set your idle until you have ridden the bike about 10km.

If you let the bike sit and idle with the choke on, even part way, I think that would carbon up the plugs. The choke is just for getting the bike started and running ok the first km or so.

Change those plugs and check the air filter first and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
This bike has only 4600kms on it and has a Kuryakyn Air intake with a K&N filter. the filter looks good. I had already given it a was and re-oil. I will however, do what you said anyhow.

I'm REALLY hoping it's just fouled plugs. I wouldn't suspect it would start so easily when it's warm if it were bad plugs though. But I'm no mechanic by any stretch. *fingers crossed for the easiest and cheapest cause to fix*
 

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The air filter is probably ok then.

Looking at your photo page, is that Kuryankyn intake intended to act as a ram / hypercharger? A hypercharger is the most difficult style to get the jets set correctly, because the characteristics change from idle to 100 km/hr airflow into the ram. With a ram charger you end up setting the jet mixture for high speeds (racing) and the idle and low end torque is never very good.

Also looks like you have after market exhaust - this begs the question on how the jets and PMscrews were setup. Did you get a look at the jets size # when you cleaned the carbs?

Even though the bike was owned by your dad, a modified bike is always questionable to whether the bike was set up and tuned correctly. If its not running right you cant assume that it was.

There are lookup tables for various intake and exhaust combinations that tell you what size jets you need in the carbs, and where to set the PMscrews as the starting point. The PMscrews might need to be tweaked after that depending on how it runs.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It's not a hypercharger. There is a K&N Style round filter behind the Skull. That is in front of the Stock Air duct that going under the tank. It has Peacemaker after market pipes which have an electronic switch and component (mounted up front by the Brake fluid resevoir on the frame) that toggles the baffles open and closed. I've been leaving the baffles closed because I"m not an overly huge fan of the loud pipe sound. As for jetting, i did remove and clean all the jets when I took the carbs apart. Whether or not they are the correct ones for the Peacemakers beats me. My Dad didn't say he had this surging problem at speed before he parked it 3 years ago. He did mention that we was having cold start issues though. The PM screws still have the brass caps on them and haven't been drilled out. I suspect, it is all stock. How can I tell? I didn't notice any numbers on the jets. But I also wasn't looking for them. I really don't want to take those carbs out again!
 

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In general if you put aftermarket exhaust on a bike you dont really have to change the jets

but if you put a low flow resistance intake on the bike, it will run lean if you dont change the jets and reset the PMscrews for more fuel.

Thats something to look into. K&N will have info on whether you need to change the jets for that intake.

Surging is a symptom of running lean, but that could also be caused by the fuel being restricted anywhere, or a vacuum leak making it run lean.

If you are confidant the bike was running well before it was stored, look at storage issues first. Did you change the fuel filter? Are you getting a good flow from the fuel pump?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm not confident about anything to be honest. LOL. But you'd think he would have told me that it was happening before when I told him how it was running now.

The Kuryakn intake really isn't much different from a stock setup other than a different filter material. I can't imagine it's causing issues to the extent I'm getting.

I did install a new fuel filter along with the Carb clean, but I used one of those glass ones from Amazon, not the OEM. Hopefully that's ok and not being to restrictive. The Fuel Pump flows. Whether or not that is enough is a good question. The service manual doesn't really say much about that other than if it flows, it's good. It's at the bottom of my list for replacement after changing the plugs, testing the the TPS and testing the Fuel Cut off solenoid.
 

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Ok, but that does tell you the bike is running very rich.

That could a problem with the choke stuck on or the jets in the carbs are too big.
 
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