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This from the highly trusted Slone KB

What it provides:

At idle, output slightly below the stock stator, but at 2,500rpm cruise level, 33amps / 430watts - about 65% more than stock.

Note: Stock Stator Output: about 84 watts at idle & about 260 watts at cruising speed (~2500 rpm)

(Vs. Manual saying 350 watts [24 amps] at 5000 rpm

Full article here:

http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/VStar1100-FAQ-08.htm#Charging System
 

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I would like some more illumination on my bike. The stock headlamp is on highbeam allways and I would like some better front lighting and more than just the little tail light in the rear. Is there a kit for this and will I need a bigger stator?
 

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First thing is to get rid of the Yamaha headlight. The reflector bowl does a poor job with respect to available light with the low beam. Seems like it goes dark after 30 ft. and if I raise the light I'm blinding pilots with the highbeam. Kuryakyn makes a good light in the Ice series or get a Yamaha Tri-Beam (gives it that old school look), but either way the stocker kinda sux. I got an LED tail light bulb for the rear to free up some current for additional lighting.

There is some headroom with respect to available current in the stock stator and unless you can't make enough current to charge battery you should be ok. These charging systems are a constant voltage varying amperage system. In laymans terms think of each winding on the stator as a bump in current. The more RPMs you have the closer the bumps are and the more current is available. With this change in speed you also get slight changes in voltage (the speed at which you create the bump). All excess current is expended as heat by the regulator. I know it's called a voltage regulator but thats more of a carry over from generator days when you actually regulated the voltage.

Breakdown of where the current goes.

http://s180867979.onlinehome.us/docs/CurrentCapacity.htm
 

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LOL Even on a healthy fully functioning system there are times when you're not charging the battery. From that picture you can add up everything and see it's too much load. The right side is what is always on, the left is the intermittent of each bike. I think your Hi-Beam uses 5 Watts more than the low-beam (55-60), so it's covered under the 161-195 watts of constant on items. Your stock Stator puts out 290 watts at 2500 RPM well above your constant on load. I've added Passing/Driving lights at 70 Watts constant on load and don't have any problems. A lot of the bag and marker lights are LED now and very low current draw. So if I were adding to the rear I'd go that route. You need to be seen but not see by those lights
 

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I am assuming I may need to go down this route. I wired my passing lamps to be on 100% of the time. Since I did that, I've killed a battery that may not have had a problem and my new battery died. Well it didnt 'die' I just charged it. Jumped to the conclusion the battery I had originally was bad. Anyhow, the new battery takes a charge and I can ride the bike for a couple weeks (2 total hours commute each day) before I notice it's hard to start. So, I assume I am right on the edge of what my charging system can handle to keep the battery at full. I'd like to use the heated gloves and possibly vest this winter but no way can I do that with what the bike is doing now. Pricey upgrade too. The link originally mentioned shows a Regulator/Rectifier. Not sure if I would need that as well. I'd like to avoid purchasing the high output stator. Beyond changing the rear brake lamp to LED, not sure what else I can do.
 

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I also run my driving lights on all the time. Run them off the high and low beams power, through some diodes to prevent back feeding to other filament and through a relay. I have no charging problems. I do run an led lamp taillight bulb. I'd be interested to know what voltage you're charging with at 2500 rpm. You may have a bad regulator, not that your stator is definitely good mind you but that's where I'd start. You should be 13.5 vdc maybe as high as 14.5 vdc. If this is low check the three white wires out of the stator. Bike running wires connected check wires 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3 for about 25 vac. If you have the correct input and don't have correct output the part in the middle is bad
 

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Thanks very much for the procedure Fulltitl1! I'll be looking into that this weekend.
 

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So I am finally getting to this... With the bike at about 2500 rpm I have 12.1v checked at the battery.

So, back to wondering if I have a bad regulator or stator with low output. After tracing wires it looks as though the regulator is behind the lower exhaust on the right side under the battery.

If your around Fulltilt1, can you clarify a few things for me? Can I disconnect the wires on the left hand side of the bike and check there with it running or do I need them connected to the Regulator and find a way to check them while connected and the bike running? Also, you mention 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. Does this mean use the black "negative" lead on the multimeter on the second number wire?

I cant get the cover off without removing the exhaust. So if I have to have it running I have to remove the exhaust, then the cover, then put the exhaust back on to run the bike and hope I can still get at the wires I need to check.

Thanks!
 

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You can check them connected and disconnected, with the engine running. I prefer to check connected. The 1,2 & 3 refer to the three white wires coming out of stator. You are checking phase to phase so the ground isn't used for these checks. You should be around 23vac not dc. If you check them disconnected look for about 48vac. Disconnect the stator and verify that you have continuity, actually about .33-.44 ohms. If all these are good replace VR. One other thing, have you charged and checked battery voltage with the battery disconnected? This will verify if your battery will fully charge. To load check it you can use the starter battery voltage should not drop more than 1-2vdc when starter button depressed.
 

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I have that same stator, if that's the route you end up having to go. Buy it on flea bay and you can find it cheaper. If you do buy this stator and your regulator is "iffy" and factory, you may want to replace it anyway. It knocked out my regulator in about 90 miles. (factory regulator, 29K miles) Charges great, though. Much stronger than stock. Mine reads 52 volts at 4k.
 

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That's the main problem with this type of voltage rec/reg, it dissipates excess power as heat in an area with dubious airflow. While most assume there is too much load that burns them out it's the opposite. At highway speeds you need more turned on to keep your rec/reg from getting hot (more power produced with rpm), but at idle you need less turned on as this strains the stator to keep up. Some have opened access holes to let more airflow in and some have extended their harnesses to relocate the rec/reg to a more friendly (open airflow) location. Definitely get the upgraded rec/reg if you opt for the higher output stator.
 

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Some have opened access holes to let more airflow in and some have extended their harnesses to relocate the rec/reg to a more friendly (open airflow) location. Definitely get the upgraded rec/reg if you opt for the higher output stator.

Exactly. I drilled holes in the regulator cover and the battery box/mount and will see how that goes. I may end up extending the harness if it heat soaks itself.
 
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