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Discussion Starter #1
When I got my 650 inspected, I asked the owner of the real serious shop I went to if he had any advice. He said, "You better start using some gas additive right now and keep using it." He sold me a bottle of "Star-tron" Enzyme fuel treatment.

It's supposed to keep the gas dry and fresh and negate the ill effects of the ethanol.

I sold my Honda CM250 Custom, but was keeping it at the house for the new owner (co-worker). I decided to start it after a cold spell and it just would not start. I'd gotten a new gel battery, so I had plenty of charge and was cranking off and on for five minutes. Not a single combustion. It had always started at the first button push. I went in the house and threw a couple of ounces of the gas treatment in, shook the tank and let it set for 10 minutes. Hit the button, and she came to life. I'm just sayin'.

Do you or don't you use fuel treatment on every tankfull? What are your thoughts on the subject?
 

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I use it since I live near the ocean and we have 10% Ethanol in our gas here. I use it with each fill-up. My main objective is to minimize moisture related problems with my bikes. It's not so much of a problem for my daily ride since I go through a tank of gas a week but for my wife's bike that is only used on weekends, it is a prevention measure. It also helps to keep the tank full so condensation can't build up as much. I have noticed easier starts and slightly better fuel mileage, though, since I started using the additives. I would like to get Startron (no luck yet); I have been using either Seafoam or Lucas Safeguard Ethanol Fuel Conditioner.
 

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I use a fuel treatment for carbon build up but never heard about anything that counter affects ethanol. Sounds kinda like a snake oil sale ???
 

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Yeah, guys, what little I know about it is Ma Yamaha says up to 10% ethanol is ok. The problem is now, it seems, the Govt powers to be want to help support the corn farmers even more and run the level up to 15%(damage time:()

Boat folks are pitchin a bitch, to no avail.

So if they can keep Jack Daniels @ 10%, ok. That does not seem to be the way it's going.

Bevo, I would also like to know how that stuff negates Ol Jack:confused: Ride Safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Bevo,
Haven't seen the guy crack a joke yet.
I ran my own full-time business for 20 years and after stopping into this shop twice, I'll listen to any advice the owner has to give. Everything the guy said and did so far was spot on and to the point. The mechs were tearing down and putting together bikes in the garage with obvious long-time experience, ease and familiarity. The place was clean, productive and organized. The owner immediately struck me as the type of guy that's 99.9% business, doesn't put up with sh*t from anyone, runs a squeeky-tight ship, and is always on-site. I've seen countless "yeah we're bikers, yuk, yuk," shops and I'll just say that it's a "you had to be there" call. It's the type of business and work ethic I want to deal with.

I did a quick search and this is what I came up with from a Star-tron Youtube page:

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Star Tron® Enzyme Fuel Treatment is new technology for today's fuels.
Visit startron.com

Star Tron® Enzyme Fuel Treatment is a revolutionary new fuel additive using enzyme technology to enhance the performance of boats, automobiles, trucks, RVs, tractors, farm equipment, generators, lawn mowers, lawn equipment, oil burning furnaces and all other small engines.

Dramatically Increases Fuel Economy
Star Tron® cleans the entire fuel delivery system, removing performance robbing gum and varnish deposits while modifying how gas and diesel burn, this results in more complete and uniform combustion and therefore better fuel economy.

Eliminates Black Soot and Exhaust Stains
With the removal of harmful engine deposits and an increase in combustion efficiency, exhaust emissions are greatly reduced. This results in cleaner air and cleaner boat transoms as black exhaust smoke is noticeably reduced.

Removes Carbon Build-Up
Carbon deposit formation is a byproduct of unburned fuel in the combustion process. Star Tron's enzymes will break down and disperse these deposits restoring engine performance as it also modifies the fuel to prevent future carbon deposits.

Disperses Bacteria
Commonly referred to as "diesel algae," these microbial spores will colonize in the water phase. Startron slowly disperses bacteria: the fungi, mold, and yeast, collectively known in the fuel industry as "diesel algae", allowing the fuel filtration system to function efficiently.

Stabilizes Gas & Diesel Fuels
Gas and diesel fuels break down rapidly which results in lost power and poor performance. Star Tron stabilizes the fuel chemistry for up to one year in gas and two years in diesel.

Eliminates & Prevents Ethanol Fuel Problems
Ethanol / E10 fuels increase the amounts of water and sludge in your fuel tank. Star Tron breaks down this excess water and sludge to sub-micron size allowing it to be safely burned away during normal engine operation. Therefore Star Tron prevents phase separation and fuel gelling, eliminiating ethanol fuel problems.

Star Tron Is Ideal For All Engines, Including:
ATVs, Cars, Trucks, Boats (2-cycle & 4-cycle), Lawn Mowers, Generator, Heavy Equipment, Snowmobiles, RVs, WeedEaters, Personal Watercraft, Diesel Engines

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I came up with these excerpts with links from a boating site:

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"Federal and California reformulated gasolines will survive storage as well or better than conventional gasolines. The regulations require reformulated gasolines to have less light ends and less olefins (federal, later; California, now) than conventional gasolines. As explained above, it is the oxidation of olefins that leads to gum formation. Reformulated gasolines also contain oxygenates. The common oxygenates are stable molecules that do not form gums.

A larger volume of gas will be pumped in and out of the container when the air space above the liquid fuel is larger and when the daily temperature change is larger. Consequently, keeping the container almost full of gasoline and controlling the temperature fluctuations will minimize the loss of light ends, the exposure of the gasoline to air, and the contamination of the gasoline with water.

Most gasolines contain negligible amounts of gum when they are manufactured, and most contain special chemicals ("stabilizers") to retard gum formation. It is the stabilizers that make it possible to store Chevron gasolines for a year when the conditions are good".

http://www.chevron.com/products/prod...term_gasoline/
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From that Chevron link, it further states:

"Formulation changes that have occurred in the past five years — the addition of oxygenates and the reduction in benzene and other aromatics — have made gasolines more subject to microbial growth. Even if no water is detected, add a biocide to the gasoline in the fuel tank. Follow the label directions. The best mixing is achieved if the biocide is added to the tank before it is filled with gasoline. Biocide additives are available at marinas and boat supply stores."
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StarTron claims to have enzymes to help prevent microbial growth:

FROM STARTRON:
"Microbial Growth In Fuel"
"When gasoline or diesel fuel sits in a tank with excessive air space, the daily temperature changes produce condensation (water formation) on tank walls. This water falls into the fuel where it sinks to the bottom providing a breeding ground for microbial spores that feed on hydrocarbon fuels. Known as "diesel algae" these are primarily fungi, yeast and mold contaminants. If left untreated, diesel algae will ruin the fuel causing clogs in filters, fuel lines and injectors. Common treatment for this problem up until now has been the use of a biocide to kill existing growth and prevent a future infestation. The use of a biocide can however cause other problems. Once the growth is killed, the resulting biomass settles to the tank bottom where it decays forming organic acids. The acids then deteriorate the fuel and cause corrosion of the tank walls, injectors and fuel delivery system. Additionally, biocides can be harmful to all those who handle them or come in contact with treated fuel, plus they can cause environmental damage if spilled. Star Tron® uses its nontoxic enzyme technology to disperse microbial growth throughout the fuel. These microbial particles are then either safely burned away or filtered out."

http://www.startron.com/stretch.php?sec=2

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I don't remember having the starting and performance problems I've had in all my vehicles previous to a couple of years ago.

It could be a "dry gas" and "gum-out" mixture with a shot of harmless, but ineffective, enzyme in it for all I know. I do know that my mileage has increased to the point that it pays for itself. The Honda started on the first try after I threw it in, and my vehicles seem to run a lot better with it.

So, who's adding on a regular basis, who's not, and what's your take on it?
 

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My concern has been moisture in the fuel. When I lived in AZ (relatively low humidity) I didn't use any additives with E-10. Here in HI with the higher humidity and ethanol's propensity to absorb moisture, I started using it mostly to avoid water separation in the fuel and the loss of efficiency that comes with it. Also, I don't like rust in my tank!

The boating community has had a lot of problems with the solvent side of ethanol on their older systems. I don't think this is a problem for our engines, though.

I have heard good stuff about Startron but haven't used it (haven't found it here in HI yet) but Seafoam and the Lucas stuff claim to keep moisture in suspension so it can be burned off easier. May be snake oil but I'll live with the choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Sherriff,
It's available through Amazon.com The 32oz. has free shipping.

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Star-brite-Tron-Gasoline-Additive/dp/B002E9A6PO[/ame]
 

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I put some BG 44K in the Vstar when i bought it, just to clean out any carbon build up. Gonna throw some in the Raider if I ever remember to grab a can from work. I've talk to several techs ( not counting the salesman) who sware by the stuff, and at 26 bucks a can it better work!!!!
 

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I don't use anything. I do throw half the recommend amount in the boat gas for winter storage because I feel guilty if I don't. Gas is pretty stable stuff or you would see cars stuck all over the place.
Some of the "Dry Gas" stuff or the old Dry Gas stuff has stuff like ethanol in it. Ethanol absorbs water.
 

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I put some BG 44K in the Vstar when i bought it, just to clean out any carbon build up. Gonna throw some in the Raider if I ever remember to grab a can from work. I've talk to several techs ( not counting the salesman) who sware by the stuff, and at 26 bucks a can it better work!!!!
Thats the stuff I use also. The BG cleans my carbs excellent in my snowmobiles, dirtbikes, chainsaw, lawnmower, bikes, and everyother gas powered engine I have. I prefer the BG over the alcohol based cleaners
 

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I use Stabil iin every tankful. You never know when something may happen and you won't be able to ride for a couple of months. It will prevent phase separation and gumming up. I've used it forever in my boat(s) and lawn equipment. I don't use it in my car since that gets used regularly with a fill up a week.


:)
 

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The BG product you guys talk about is a very good product. I use a product called MOC.Same type product as the BG but a little on the stronger side.I highly recommend either of those products especially for us liner/raider owners.
 

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I do agree that a fairly empty gas tank (mostly air) that sits over the winter months is asking for trouble. I top off the tank and add sea-foam (1oz/gal) and nary a starting problem every spring. I do the same for the garden tractor, log splitter, chain saws, line trimmers, snow blower(in the summer) etc.
 

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I will run Stabil in about every 5 tanks and will run a bottle of Lucus in it every oil change and it seems to have no problems and always make sure the tank is topped off so as to keep moisture from building up and starting the rust process inside the tank.
 

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I will run Stabil in about every 5 tanks and will run a bottle of Lucus in it every oil change and it seems to have no problems and always make sure the tank is topped off so as to keep moisture from building up and starting the rust process inside the tank.
Yep, ZACKLY the trouble I was referring to.
 
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