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Discussion Starter #1
This has been discussed many times.
Do you follow the pressure rating listed on the bike or what is stamped on the tire ?

I like this guys approach and explanation. Take a look:
 

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The one thing he said I trusted most came at 12:16 when he said: "I don't know." That was a whole bunch of techno-babble and sorry assumptions. Hey - dude! I have a 2001 V-Star 650 Classic and I can still buy what was put on at the factory in 2001, today. OK so, using the manufacturer recommendations can be considered a 'Starting Point', and you can make small adjustments based on your experience. But they're usually good enough. And, the pressure molded into the tire itself is the MAXIMUM cold pressure you should ever put in - not a recommendation.
 

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didnt watch the whole thing

is there a matrix at the end with 7 unknowns and 7 variables?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
He is making the point that there are many variable to consider when determining air pressure.
He says to use the pressures stated on your bike as a starting point.

For example, on the same bike, would a 120 lb women ride with the same air in her tires as a 350 lb guy?
Where do you ride? Alaska where temps might not go above 50 F or in the Arizona desert where temps of 110 are not uncommon ?

These and other factors determine what is the best PSI for your bike with a given tire.
Everyone's answer will be different.

Although there shouldn't be a huge difference in PSI, a small increase or decrease in tire pressure can have a fairly dramatic change to the feel of your ride. Try it and you will see.
On the Vulcan forum a lot of guys riding 1700's prefer riding with 42 in front and 48 in rear. I tried it and it did not work for me. The bike was all over the road. Very unstable. They said that was what gave them the most grip and confident feel. Lots of variables affect PSI. That was the jest of his video.
 

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I take exception with his statement that a tire at 43 psi at 50° rides any different than a tire at 43 psi at 100°. Yes - if you fill/check a tire at one temperature, it will change as the temperature changes. Any other difference is going to be caused by friction available due to the temperature of the asphalt/concrete. In my opinion, he's doing more hand-waving and ranting than informing. And yes, he finally does circle around to say to start with the recommended pressure. But it was still too much techno-babble to end up at that point. That's just my 2¢.
 

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There is always somebody out there micro managing something to the point of tedium. I've been riding for 35 years with 11 different street bikes and proper tire pressure was least of my worries. Follow what is stamped on your tires and you should be golden. If you live where there is extreme hot/cold temps, it's a simple formula of just allowing for expansion due to heat by a couple pounds less fill pressure, and go to max pressure if it's super cold.

Most important is frequent checks to ensure your pressure is withing mfg. requirements, especially prior to a big ride.
 

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I watched it and understood some of the points he was making, yet it seemed a round robin way of getting the correct pressure in your tires. I go with what the manf recommends and maybe go up or down depending on whether I’m riding two up or solo, yet I still believe in Santa Claus!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Pay close attention to max cold pressure stamped on tire and stay with Yamaha cold manual specs. Example--My new Dunlops for '05 650 say 41 psi cold. My Yamaha specs call for 36 & 39. Summer road surfaces in central Florida can hit 130 degrees, so I go with 36 & 39 cold and check (and correct) cold pressures at least monthly.

This has always worked well for me over 60 riding years with 31 bikes in 5 states. Just sayin.
 
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