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Discussion Starter #1
I stopped by my local gun store and had one of the guys give me two .45 casings. My question is do I just hammer them in and do I need to cut some of the casing off? These casings are pretty damn long at probably more than 1.5 inches long. So I don't want to hammer them in too far or too little and have an inch of brass sticking out from the engine. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I looked at the bottom of the ammo and realized it has .45 long written on it. This ammo is much longer than the regular .45 acp ammo so can I just cut my .45 long down to size?
 

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.45 ACP case is 0.473 inch dia., .45 Long (Colt) is 0.480 inch dia. These specs are industry standard for UNFIRED cases. If the cases you have are fired without being re-sized they will measure larger diameter.

I'm guessing it will be a little tighter, maybe just enough to collapse the case during installation?

Give it a try and see what happens :D
 

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I am doing the same thing for my AIS ports. Let´s stay in contact so we can check out what each other is doing and if it is succsessful. OK?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I tried getting the ais elbows out for a few minutes today before I had to go for work and it's definitely not easy. The vice grips ruined the thread on the slide hammer I was using so that trick isn't going to work, and I tried pulling and turning the elbow and it wouldn't budge even after freezing it with co2. All I can say is that I'm not looking forward to doing this again.
 

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roblox84
You are farther along thatn me. I thought that the elbow would just slide out after taking off the nuts. Good luck with the back cylinder. It looks like it is harder to do bcause of the angle.
I also thought that I would put some alumaweld or somethiing like that to help the casings stay attached. What are you going to use, if anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
roblox84
You are farther along than me. I thought that the elbow would just slide out after taking off the nuts. Good luck with the back cylinder. It looks like it is harder to do because of the angle.
I also thought that I would put some alumaweld or something like that to help the casings stay attached. What are you going to use, if anything.
It definitely does not slide out, maybe you'll be lucky and yours will :). I think taking both of them off will be equally as hard because like you said of the angle of the back cylinder and the front one has the frame right in front of the plug. I'm going to have to see if I can borrow a slide hammer from Autozone or Oreilys, at least that way I don't have to ruin more of my stuff, lol.

As far as gluing the casings in, i'm not sure if i'll use anything just yet. I'm going to see if they fit tightly in there but i've seen pictures where people put red loctite around the casing where it meets the head after they've plugged the hole. When I get home tonight i'll try one more time to freeze the elbows and just use pliers to pry it some more, if that doesn't work again i'll have to find another slide hammer. Keep me updated on your progress and i'll do the same.
 

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The ais elbows will come out. All you need if you don't have a slide hammer is a small pry bar/ long Handel screwdriver and a hammer. These are pressed into the ais ports. Just will take some time and beating to get out. The spent .45 shell casings will fit right in, I used a hammer and a punch and lightly tapped on the shell casings into the ports until it bottomed out. Then I used some jb weild on top of the shell casings just to make sure they won't come out. I just did this on my 650 v star custom.


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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
The ais elbows will come out. All you need if you don't have a slide hammer is a small pry bar/ long Handel screwdriver and a hammer. These are pressed into the ais ports. Just will take some time and beating to get out. The spent .45 shell casings will fit right in, I used a hammer and a punch and lightly tapped on the shell casings into the ports until it bottomed out. Then I used some jb weild on top of the shell casings just to make sure they won't come out. I just did this on my 650 v star custom. Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
Just to clarify, are you saying I should hammer the screwdriver into the opening of the ais elbow and then move the screw driver around to loosen the plug?
 

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No. That's is not what I am trying to say. I insert the pry bar or flat head screwdriver just behind the elbow fitting. There should be a pivot point somewhere about halfway down the pry bar or screw driver and if there is not one, you can make one with another tool or a 2x4 and I take the hammer and hit the exposed end of the screwdriver to make the ais elbow pop out if the hole. The front one was harder for me. Had to make some really hard blows with the hammer. The back one came out with 3 hits. Also try some wd40 and let that soak a few minutes.


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I wished there was a video I could send a link to but I don't see any. The key word here is pivot point. Hold the pry bar, while using the pivot point and hit the end with a hammer. May take a few hard blows so keep an eye on your hands so you don't get hurt.

Also using the .45 shell casings is a perfect match for the ports and they will tap right on in. You won't need any jb wield, I just put some on top just in case.


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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I just saw your message but I went straight to the garage after work and already got them out. It took about 15 min, I did manage to find another pair of vice grips and they fit my slide hammer nicely. I just put a little pb blaster on the elbows and hit it a few times with the slide hammer and they slowly inched out.

The rear was a tad easier since i could pull the plug straight out. For the front plug I did the same but I grabbed onto the thin part of the elbow that sticks out as not to be too close to the frame and it also came out nicely. The slide hammer was sort of pointing towards the ground because of the way the vice grips had to grip the plug, so I had to slide the hammer towards the ground if that makes any sense.

Edit...I forgot to mention that I just hammered the 45 shells in. For the front cylinder I used a socket extension with the hammer because you can't fit a hammer between the plug and frame.
 

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Thanks, now to move on to jetting the carbs. Hopefully that will go smoothly.
I just did that too. Not a bad job other than removing the float bowl bolts. They were a pain in the rear, stripped most of the heads to I had to replace most of them. Other than that, it's not as hard that I first thought. Good luck.

Ps, if you are drilling out your pms screw caps, drill slowly. Once the drill feels like it's about to break through, stop the drill and pull. If you go any further with the drill you will hit the pms screws, once you mess up them heads, there's no way to turn them to make adjustments.


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Discussion Starter #18
I just did that too. Not a bad job other than removing the float bowl bolts. They were a pain in the rear, stripped most of the heads to I had to replace most of them. Other than that, it's not as hard that I first thought. Good luck.

Ps, if you are drilling out your pms screw caps, drill slowly. Once the drill feels like it's about to break through, stop the drill and pull. If you go any further with the drill you will hit the pms screws, once you mess up them heads, there's no way to turn them to make adjustments.


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Nice, I have a few questions though. Which kit did you go with? I was looking at the chubby air kit and I think the kit ships with 8 screws for the float bowl ones that get stripped. Do you think I should get aftermarket pms screws or just keep the stock ones? Also did you install an oil collection container or did you just route the lines back into the intakes? Lastly, do you feel any difference in power and did it change the sound of the bike at all? Thanks.
 

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Just FYI, I used the maxxair Predator Pro kit. It routes the oil breather line back into the air cleaners. Maxxair makes an excellent product with very clear instructions and the results amazed me, but I have an 1100. Don't know if they make it for the 650.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just FYI, I used the maxxair Predator Pro kit. It routes the oil breather line back into the air cleaners. Maxxair makes an excellent product with very clear instructions and the results amazed me, but I have an 1100. Don't know if they make it for the 650.
I have an 1100 as well. I have the chubby air kit shipping to me so I'll have to figure out what to do about the oil return. Maybe I'll just drill holes at the top of the intakes and run my own lines.
 
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