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Discussion Starter #1
:confused:

I really don't want to remove the exhaust and I'd like to see where everything is a get a plan of attack.
 

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I had pics but haven't found them yet.
But I used the level hole small allen, and after draining used the level hole with oil pump can to put fluid in.

I just hit my 600 mile mark on my raider and now its time for the dreaded gear oil
change .
I heard from every one that the pipes must be removed , thats not true i just did mine
and it was easy ,
first off what drain plugs are what , the drain plug is on the side of thetransfer case
hidden behind that ulgy foil crap , so use some pliers and unclip the zip ties,
the drain plug is a t-40 torx,
next is the fill plug this is the big silver plug on the side to remove this i used a
10mm allen that i cut to about 1 1/2 inch and i used a 10mm wrench to turn
now for the little level plug this is the allen bolt under the big fill plug i used a 1/4 inch
socket with a allen made for my drill gun .
so dont remove your pipes . drain the transfer case and plug it back up
now fill with .58 quart sae80 api gl-4 hypoid gear oil (per the owners manual)
fill in the big hole untill the little fill level hole starts to drip .
please pass on this info .
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, I'm gonna give this a go tomorrow. I'll have to hit up Harbor freight for some cheap allen keys to cut down. :)
 

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T-40 Torx

You probably noticed, but just in case, the drain is a T 40 Torx not an Allen. The other two are Allen.

Somewhere I did see someone say they used short tools and got by without removing exhaust. It is covered in te alternate methode on the Liner Wiki. I guess the trick is you use a pump to refill and don't remove the top, fill plug.

http://www.linerwiki.com/index.php?title=ChangeTransferCaseOil2

Maybe use your wife's turkey baster.

Dave
 

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I had pics but haven't found them yet.
But I used the level hole small allen, and after draining used the level hole with oil pump can to put fluid in.

I just hit my 600 mile mark on my raider and now its time for the dreaded gear oil
change .
I heard from every one that the pipes must be removed , thats not true i just did mine
and it was easy ,
first off what drain plugs are what , the drain plug is on the side of thetransfer case
hidden behind that ulgy foil crap , so use some pliers and unclip the zip ties,
the drain plug is a t-40 torx,
next is the fill plug this is the big silver plug on the side to remove this i used a
10mm allen that i cut to about 1 1/2 inch and i used a 10mm wrench to turn
now for the little level plug this is the allen bolt under the big fill plug i used a 1/4 inch
socket with a allen made for my drill gun .
so dont remove your pipes . drain the transfer case and plug it back up
now fill with .58 quart sae80 api gl-4 hypoid gear oil (per the owners manual)
fill in the big hole untill the little fill level hole starts to drip .
please pass on this info .
 

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No need to pull the filler allen off, I used the check hole to refill as per stated somewhere else. Not sure the Raiders check hole can be accessed the same as the Roadliners, but the allen is here...

Pic is a little blurry sorry




Now to refill, I did not use a pump. I saved this bottle(pictured)from another bike job. Refilled (18 ounces) it with redline gear oil and used the pictured adapter and hose (from a mighty vac) to plug into the check hole. Simply flip the bottle upright and squeeze.




Total change time 10-15 minutes...

Also to make things quicker, I went to ACE hardware and switched out the useless Torx drain bolt with a 5mm Allen bolt, Cost=.76 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Cool... Sorry your pics after I was finished though. lol My route doing it went okay. I had to loosen the exhaust to get to the fill plug. I don't know how people are doing this with the exhaust cinched up. I even cut off a hunk of allen key and used a 10mm wrench. I filled it back up with some vacuum hose stuck on the end om Royal Purple bottle.
 

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I threw that button head drain bolt away after I ran to the hardware store and picked up a standard mteric bolt and I don't have to loosen anything, just slip a wrench on it and pull it and use my oil can to fill it thru the level hole
 

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The piece of Key I had already that was cut... wouldn't let me get the key out or the fill nut... so I put it back in and used the level hole with the oil pump can...
I like the adapter he has up above, but my luck would have me squeeze and have the hose all come apart and blow oil all over...lol...
Ride Safe
 

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The piece of Key I had already that was cut... wouldn't let me get the key out or the fill nut... so I put it back in and used the level hole with the oil pump can...
I like the adapter he has up above, but my luck would have me squeeze and have the hose all come apart and blow oil all over...lol...
Ride Safe
I tried that once and use the oil can now.
 

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I bought one of these for 5 bucks at the auto parts store. It has volume graduations and a spout that when the tip of the hose is inside the filler hole you just twist the blue part and start the flow from the canister.
 

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man, I read your post (nice pics) and decided to change the fluid in my 08 roadliner transfer case since I bought it used and it had no maintenance records. Plus the spur gear in there sings pretty loud. I drained out the old oil and it looked fairly clean. I filled it with Redline MT-90 through the level check hole like you did and took it for a ride this morning. The spur gear in the transfer case still sings but not quite as loud now. Thanks for the post.
 

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My Strat is an '06 Model. I can change the transfer case lube without removing anything. I utilize a short torx bit and a small 1/4" ratchet to remove the drain plug and fill site plug. Fits in between exhaust and case. The ratchet is the type that has a hex hole in the ratchet end versus a square peg you put a socket on. You push the torx bit into the ratchet. Yes it is tight, but it works and saves a lot of time/fussin around. :)
 

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I bought one of these for 5 bucks at the auto parts store. It has volume graduations and a spout that when the tip of the hose is inside the filler hole you just twist the blue part and start the flow from the canister.
Quoting so I can save for my first change... this winter...
 

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Yea, the transfer case oil drain/fill was another poor design. They could have put a fill port via rubber hose up to and beside the oil fill hole and placed a glass port on the side of the case where the current fill hole is (old school way). Fill the case oil until its half way up he glass.
 
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