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Discussion Starter #1
My Father was at a stop light today and his bike just died. He did not run out of fuel. It died suddenly. Didn't sputter or anything. We got it started and drove about 5 miles then it backfired something fierce then died suddenly again. Waited a few minutes and it started again and he got it home. Any ideas what it could be? I am thinking it is a safety switch. We started it, put the kickstand up and let the clutch out and it kept dying.

Also, there was a splatter of oil on the left engine cover towards the back that looks like it came from the rear cylinder cover where you adjust the valves. I think the backfire might have blown out that O-ring.

2002 Vstar 650
 

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Kick stand switch

Jon,

If the kickstand switch is bad I think it will die as soon as you put it in gear. Even if the clutch is in.

One possibillity woud be the pick up coil. If you loose spark check it.

http://650ccnd.com/coil.htm

Look around on 650ccnd.com.

Dave
 

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not sure about the v-star but these v-twins from Yami/Star ususally have a crankshaft position sensor. Damage to one or both of the tiny wires from this sensor will cause an ECU shut-down. This may not be "it" because I'd be surprised the ECU would allow a re-start but I can't be 100% sure on that, especially if it's just sensor wire damage or if it's is a fully broken wire.

ooops - I just read Linerdave's comment..I think "pick-up coil" and the CPS is one and the same

Keep us posted on this because if it is a bum wire lead to the CPS then this would have been a ton more of heart racing excitemnt had it happened at 85MPH with a semi behind him on the highway - YIKES!
 

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Pickup coil

http://cyclepartswarehouse.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=41855&category=Motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=2002&fveh=1102

4 PICK-UP ASSY
4TR-81670-00-00 1 $105.28 $65.70
Cycle parts warehouse. com
Just bought one and had it installed, I had it done by a certified yamaha mech. he cut the wires, butt joint solder, shrink inside the stator cover and did not require the removal of many parts to get to the wiring that is zip tied in several places up to and under the fuel tank, Runs like a top now.
Good luck,
 

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http://cyclepartswarehouse.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=41855&category=Motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=2002&fveh=1102

4 PICK-UP ASSY
4TR-81670-00-00 1 $105.28 $65.70
Cycle parts warehouse. com
Just bought one and had it installed, I had it done by a certified yamaha mech. he cut the wires, butt joint solder, shrink inside the stator cover and did not require the removal of many parts to get to the wiring that is zip tied in several places up to and under the fuel tank, Runs like a top now.
Good luck,
The only thing better than a soldered butt splice is NO soldered butt splice. I had this changed out on my road star warrior under a re-call. I watched over his shoulder and made sure there was none of that butt splicing going on.
 

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Butt splicers

Many people feel like you about butt splicers but. Here's another thought.

I worked in maintenance in a steel mill, We used lots of butt splicers. In some very bad environmets. Never had a bad connection or one go bad. Even sometimes when thay got wet. If you use good ones Like Stake On they actually work well. They have plated serrated surfaces that are compadible with most wires. If they are insolated in one operation you have an insolated connection you do not need to wrap with tape. If electrical tape gets hot it starts to unravel. I have occasionally seen a bad solder job but never a bad butt splice.

In our invironment the butt splicers worked well. I do also like the shrink tube idea. Solder covered with shrink tube works well.

Dave.
 

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I won't argue that. But there are acceptable places for splicing and there are places you don't splice. The leads to your CPS is one where you don't splice. It may fail at a stop light, it may fail at high speed in thick traffic.

The "certified Yamaha mechanic" took a short cut, period.

For my recall it was because of ppssible wire breaks where the leads enter the CPS. The replacement CPS had more strain relief added to protect the wires from vibration.

So, now lets add a rigid chunk of solder to these tiny wires to amplify any vibration, see what I mean?

All to save 30 minutes and a few wire ties. Pardon my French but that is just half ass hack work.
 

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Are you factory certified?

FYI, the pickuo coil for the 07 IS NOT AVAILABLE separately, only with a stator.
The PC I was able to find (carries the same part number) and bought was for an 02 and the wiring compression seal had only 3 holes in it, the 06 has 5!!!!!!!! It would have required modification that COULD have resulted in an oil leak at that compression seal. So my "Factory Trained Mechanic" made the decision too not offer the potential for an oil leak and made the splice as I described. Your expert knowledge and opinion are "expert knowledge and opinion" are only expert in your own mind.
I choose to accept the expert opinion of my factory trained mechanic.
Enjoy being an expert in your own mind.
Have a great day.


I won't argue that. But there are acceptable places for splicing and there are places you don't splice. The leads to your CPS is one where you don't splice. It may fail at a stop light, it may fail at high speed in thick traffic.

The "certified Yamaha mechanic" took a short cut, period.

For my recall it was because of ppssible wire breaks where the leads enter the CPS. The replacement CPS had more strain relief added to protect the wires from vibration.

So, now lets add a rigid chunk of solder to these tiny wires to amplify any vibration, see what I mean?

All to save 30 minutes and a few wire ties. Pardon my French but that is just half ass hack work.
 

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FYI, the pickuo coil for the 07 IS NOT AVAILABLE separately, only with a stator.
The PC I was able to find (carries the same part number) and bought was for an 02 and the wiring compression seal had only 3 holes in it, the 06 has 5!!!!!!!! It would have required modification that COULD have resulted in an oil leak at that compression seal. So my "Factory Trained Mechanic" made the decision too not offer the potential for an oil leak and made the splice as I described. Your expert knowledge and opinion are "expert knowledge and opinion" are only expert in your own mind.
I choose to accept the expert opinion of my factory trained mechanic.
Enjoy being an expert in your own mind.
Have a great day.
Sorry I didn't realize you had additional reasons to do the hack job.
God forbid you spend the extra bucks to do it right, and you know I'm right.
I look forward to your "hey my bike just died too" thread.
Have a nice day, I will knowing My ride today will not end up broke down miles from home.
 

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Connections

ThaOldMan,

Your repair will be fine. Butt splicers make a Strong, insolated, very low resistance connection. They will not fail. Our power lines to our house use them.

If you use a good quality insolated butt splicer like Stake On, for the right size wire, strip about a quarter inch on both wires, slide them untill the insolation butts against the inner conductor, then crimp it, it will out last the bike by a lone time. and have no more resistance then a peace of wire, and is well insolated. As long as you have room for the little bump.

At todays labor rates it would not make sense to add a couple hours to the job.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK, tried to go for a ride today. Bike died in nearly the same exact spot as last time. Seems it is temp related or just coincidence. I had a spark plug with me so I checked for spark, no spark at all. Let it cool off for about 1/2 hour and it started. Got almost home then it died again. We pushed it from there. I took the tank off and checked the pickup coil at the connector, it was 236 OHMs. Is that enough out of range to mess things up? Normal is supposedly 182-222.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
More info: I let the bike sit for about 20 minutes after I tested the pickup coil, the reading was 226 OHMs. I started the bike up and let it run for about 30 seconds, shut it off then retested it, it was now 258. As it cooled off the OHMs slowly went down. Will the OHMs go so high when warm that it shuts off?
 

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Yep that's what happens, technically called "open".
 

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It's bad...
 

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I believe you can. After that yr you had to buy the whole electrical coil with it as one unit.
 

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I believe you can. After that yr you had to buy the whole electrical coil with it as one unit.
OK, I got everything off. What a PITA. I am not even gonna attempt to take out the phillips head bolts. I am gonna attack it with vice grips first. I guess all I need to order is the pickup coil and gasket?
 

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Sounds like a plan.
 

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OK, I got everything off. What a PITA. I am not even gonna attempt to take out the phillips head bolts. I am gonna attack it with vice grips first. I guess all I need to order is the pickup coil and gasket?
For the phillips head screws, do you have an impact driver? Cuz these work sweet! It will work even after you destroy the screw heads with the vice grips . LOL!


The above is a Sears/Craftsman for 20 bucks. I have this exact same tool - bought it back in the 70's (probably for $9.95 then). Still gets an occasional use today. It has a 1/2 square drive so you can even use it with your socket set.
 
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