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So... My yammy is mad at me I think. I've bought a new wif... I mean bike.

81 Honda Goldwing 1100. Perfect. Looks like new. Not a scratch. Starts like a dream, everything works, clean title, yada. The Clarion radio even still sounds good... $300.

If it weren't for that distressing knock in the lower end...

I'm not sure yet what it is, but it's clearly not good. It's an "open her up" of some sort for sure. I'm guessing spun bearing(s), just based on experience. But no way to tell for sure without major surgery.

So here's my dilemma:

My "hobby/sideline/mad-money" thing is parting out old non-running bikes: wrecks, barn finds, no-title, etc. I do a couple a year, make a few bucks, pays for vacation.

I swore to myself I'd never buy a restorable/running bike to part out. "organ donation" is a great thing when a tragic event helps renew life for others. Doing that with someone who -could- recover? Not so much.

But the truth is this: a $300 Goldwing (running or not) means I can part the thing out, make a lovely profit, and go to the islands for a couple weeks this summer. Hell, I can sell just the carbs and make my investment back: the rest is profit.

Or I can put in the time, effort and cost to rebuild and put a rather nice old bike back on the road... which I'll then be able to sell for somewhat less than what I paid + what I spent. Forget any value of my time.

What to do?

Anyone need Goldwing Parts?
 

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Well, a few years ago you could've doubled $ to one of my riding buddies. He had the same but with strong motor and bike falling apart around it.
Now he rides a V-Star like mine.

Me? I'd fix and sell as a whole, being in that condition. But that's just how I am.
 

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Guess you need to decide if its something you want to make $$ on or just tinker/ play with.
 

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You could have nothing more than a carbon knock.

The way to test for bottom end play is simple.

Rev it up, drop the throttle. As the engine RPM falls back to idle, ease the throttle back up. When the increasing throttle meets the falling engine RPM you will have about 1-2 seconds of neutral pressure on the pistons. If there is any play in the crank it will knock VERY loud.

If you had a spun bearing, she would be locked by now. Spun bearings will block oil flow in the journals and allow oil to escape causing a drop in pressure overall.

If you are lucky and only have a worn bearing, the crank journal and rod end will still be in spec and you can replace the bearings with factory sized replacements. Once spun you will have to re-grind the surfaces, measure the rod ends and special order over size bearings.

Problem is, in a car all you have to do is drop the oil pan to replace the bearings, not sure how involved a Goldwing engine is to get to them.
 

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You could have nothing more than a carbon knock.

The way to test for bottom end play is simple.

Rev it up, drop the throttle. As the engine RPM falls back to idle, ease the throttle back up. When the increasing throttle meets the falling engine RPM you will have about 1-2 seconds of neutral pressure on the pistons. If there is any play in the crank it will knock VERY loud.

If you had a spun bearing, she would be locked by now. Spun bearings will block oil flow in the journals and allow oil to escape causing a drop in pressure overall.

If you are lucky and only have a worn bearing, the crank journal and rod end will still be in spec and you can replace the bearings with factory sized replacements. Once spun you will have to re-grind the surfaces, measure the rod ends and special order over size bearings.

Problem is, in a car all you have to do is drop the oil pan to replace the bearings, not sure how involved a Goldwing engine is to get to them.
My car requires the engine to come out to replace the oil pan gasket :( Don't ask how I know!
 

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If it is one of the ones with the squareish fairing and headlight, I say make parts out of it.

If it is the non fairing model as long as it isn't brown I say fix it. I don't like the Honda brown on a motorcycle.
 
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