[pauli466]

"you get what you pay for" doesn't seem to apply to motorcycle oil threads. but i'v always believed it for the most part.

 

[chief ten bears]

"you get what you pay for" doesn't seem to apply to motorcycle oil threads. but i'v always believed it for the most part.

Sure it does... Rotella is made by Royal Dutch Shell, one of the biggest and most respected gas and oil provider when it comes to quality and performance. Motorcycle oil typically comes at a higher cost per litre to capitalize on a niche, performance orientated market. Motorcycle oil is marketed much differently than oil for lets say a Toyota Camry driver. Just because Rotella, which is in fact a JASO MA motorcycle oil, is cheaper than market specific motorcycle oils, doesn't mean it's any less of a quality. In fact, hundreds of oil analysis reports show the opposite, that it is a better quality oil than most motorcycle branded oils.

 

[Sick Mick]

Most motorcycle branded oils are more expensive because the consumer is paying the multi-million dollar tab to get a non motorcycle oil through the testing procedures required to get the JASO certification. In most cases, that is the only major difference in the oils.....

 

[Tynker]

sure it does... Rotella is made by royal dutch shell, one of the biggest and most respected gas and oil provider when it comes to quality and performance. Motorcycle oil typically comes at a higher cost per litre to capitalize on a niche, performance orientated market. Motorcycle oil is marketed much differently than oil for lets say a toyota camry driver. Just because rotella, which is in fact a jaso ma motorcycle oil, is cheaper than market specific motorcycle oils, doesn't mean it's any less of a quality. In fact, hundreds of oil analysis reports show the opposite, that it is a better quality oil than most motorcycle branded oils.

i agree !!!

 

[Zachcabe]

The main issue with using non motorcycle oils is that automotive oils have modifiers (zinc) that are good for engines and bad for wet clutches on motorcycles. This is also true for synthetic oils.

Rotella T does not contain the modifiers.

I use it with no issues on clutch slip.

Clutch slip is easy to check for: full throttle in high gear during your bikes powerband. If you hear (or see) bikes rpm increasing significantly faster than speed, then you clutch is slipping.

Clutch slip is progressive, so you would first notice it at top gear with two up riding. Continued riding will eventually cause you to notice with one up top gear riding. Eventually, you will notice the same down a gear, and then during hard acceleration through your gears.

The wrong type of oil causes clutch slip without the progressive aspect. You will notice clutch slip accelerating through the gears within 50 to 100 miles of the oil change. According to my reading, switching to non modified oil will eventually wash out enough of the zinc to allow the wet clutch to work well again.

On the topic of "feels like less decel breaking after the oil change", my only comment is that decel braking is a relative thing. On my bike, if I blip the throttle too much on a downshift, I get a jump forward, before any kind of decel effect. (VMax likes to go, not stop). Point is, decel is relative and not a good indicator of clutch slip.

Hope this helps!

Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The main issue with using non motorcycle oils is that automotive oils have modifiers (zinc) that are good for engines and bad for wet clutches on motorcycles. This is also true for synthetic oils.

Rotella T does not contain the modifiers.

I use it with no issues on clutch slip.

Clutch slip is easy to check for: full throttle in high gear during your bikes powerband. If you hear (or see) bikes rpm increasing significantly faster than speed, then you clutch is slipping.

Clutch slip is progressive, so you would first notice it at top gear with two up riding. Continued riding will eventually cause you to notice with one up top gear riding. Eventually, you will notice the same down a gear, and then during hard acceleration through your gears.

The wrong type of oil causes clutch slip without the progressive aspect. You will notice clutch slip accelerating through the gears within 50 to 100 miles of the oil change. According to my reading, switching to non modified oil will eventually wash out enough of the zinc to allow the wet clutch to work well again.

On the topic of "feels like less decel breaking after the oil change", my only comment is that decel braking is a relative thing. On my bike, if I blip the throttle too much on a downshift, I get a jump forward, before any kind of decel effect. (VMax likes to go, not stop). Point is, decel is relative and not a good indicator of clutch slip.

Hope this helps!

Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do I noticed mine is doing it just like you described to a T! I used mobil1 V-Twin and Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer what oil do you recommend?

 

[Jspree]

This is a 5 year old thread, the v twin oil is good,what does the stabilizer have in it. If is to reduce friction for longer life,that is not good. The clutch uses your engine oil. If you have anything in an oil or additive to reduce friction you are reducing the friction of the clutch plates.
If you added a friction reducer, dump it quick

 

[lesblank]

The Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer label says 10% for wet clutches. If you put more than about 4 ounces in, that's your issue. In any wet clutch bikes I've never used additives as most will cause clutch issues. If you put in more than 4 ounces in, I would drain and start over fresh.

 

[EYNSTYN]

i use t4 and have no problems

 

[arby]

You sir, are nuts. Shell Rotella oil has been a main stay oil for all Jap bikes for years, and has NEVER caused any clutch problems.

Ran T-6 in my VTX 1300 S, 128,XXX miles with no problems.