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Discussion Starter #1
speedo cable
gas cap
neutral switch
head light
tail light
carb boots: rubber manifold gaskets
tires
grip set
ignition assembly
covers: the two plastic covers around ignition switch; cracked.
blinkers
bobber fender: not fond of the flat top trailer type
bobber seat
wraps for header
will attempt to repair dented tank.....
....and I am not finished taking it apart yet.
any tips or suggestion or offers on OEM or aftermarket items (used ok) could really help. Will try google, ebay, bandit etc...also came across an interesting site for parts;; bang good.com
 

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the carb boots that attach the carbs to the heads are made with two layers. I think the inside layer is aluminum, I dont think it ever fails. The outside is a rubbery looking plastic that cracks and looks like the carbs are ready to fall off.

People have replaced the boots because of those cracks, but unless you have a vacuum leak on the boot or the ends are damaged, you dont need to worry about the appearance.

Ive replaced my 650's tires a few times now. Ive used both the OEM Dunlop and the OEM Bridgestone tires. The Bridgestone tires are physically heavier and they make the bike feel more stable, and more precise when you counter steer. The weight creates more gyroscopic force as the wheels spin. When I had the Dunlop tires on the bike I could not ride hands free. I mentioned before the engine spins backwards on these bikes, so it cancels out some of the gyro effect of the front wheel. If you put too light of a tire on the bike, it will get pretty touchy. Some people like it better that way. Most website list the weight of the tires, look up the OEM bridgestone and use its weight as a reference point, if you get a different tire.

The bridgestone tires cost more than dunlop. They both have other versions than the ones listed as OEM in the owners manual. There are several other makers of tires that will fit the bike too. You will probably want to get new tubes at the same time.

I found the best price online at Bikebandit.com the first time (when I searched far and wide for the best price) and I have been buying from them ever since. The thing that blows me away is tires from them get here (upstate NY) in about two days. I think they are in California, but maybe they have distribution warehouses around the country.

Ignition assembly ?! I thought the bike was running?

Personally I would pass on wrapping the exhaust, I have read it traps water and makes the pipes rust out, and does not provide any functional benefit (other than appearance). Engineers do not care about aesthetics, function and performance are primary.

something else to consider - I think you have the Classic version. It has a full rear fender. The Custom version has the rear fender cut off high.

With the full classic fender, when you take off the back wheel, you have to either jack the bike about 2 feet in the air to get the wheel out from under the fender, or you have to take off the seats, pull the plug to the tail lights, pull half the bolts out of the fender, and then swing it up in the air on the last two loose bolts. If you make it more like the Custom version (stupid model names) it will be easier to get the back wheel off, with the tires only an inch off the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
your right, there are cracks in both and I wondered why it ran so well with those cracks. makes sense now.
the key cylinder is broke, so started bike with screw driver, the cam behind the cylinder just spins to start.
I am going to paint pipes with 2000 heat paint first, so I am going to take the chance... I heard the same about wrap.
my classics original fender was cut by the previous owner. Looks good but does not have that close to the wheel bobber look I want.
Thank you for the input
 
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