Yamaha Starbike Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this month's Bike of the Month Challenge!

41 - 60 of 141 Posts

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 ·
well i hit a significant delay in things. paint shop called me yesterday to announce they are going out of business and wouldn't be able to do any of my stuff. so i picked it all up and now have to find another shop.
 

·
Super Moderator "Loose Nut" - Houston, Texas
2001 Vstar 1100 Classic (sold), 2006 HD Electra Glide Ultra Classic
Joined
·
11,460 Posts
well i hit a significant delay in things. paint shop called me yesterday to announce they are going out of business and wouldn't be able to do any of my stuff. so i picked it all up and now have to find another shop.
Bummer. There's lot of businesses going under in Houston. Folks are just not going to the brick and motor stores. The trend is to order on line thus not supporting the local folks. Hopefully you find another vendor quickly that can take care of you.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #43 ·
well i found another shop. 2, actually. one shop does powdercoat and ceramic/cerakote but doesn't want to go through the hassle of creating a custom cerakote color. so i found another shop to just do the cerakote. here's some of the challenges that we've been trying to figure out -

1)some of my pegs/floorboards are chrome plated and some are already powdercoated in black. to really get the color i'm wanting for those to be powdercoated it is best if they are all chrome. so i just ordered new chrome parts to replace the black ones.

2)some of the parts i want to match those are plastic and therefore cannot be powdercoated because you have to bake them in an oven and they would melt. so i'm getting some of those in cerakote and i'm spray painting the other parts myself. one of these parts getting cerakote has multiple challenges all on its own so we are going to have to modify it to make it work.

3)there are multiple series, or types of cerakote as each series has its own specs and levels of resistance to heat/UV/abrasion/corrosion/etc. the kind i need is pretty much the most expensive kind and doesn't have a long shelf life (cerakote quotes 1 year while the shop says the paints become useless after a few months if not used by then). therefore, shops don't offer very many colors in it because it's expensive to test and create new colors/formulas and keep a bunch of options in stock. this has really been the main obstacle in getting the color i want for all my parts. it started with me wanting my exhaust in a custom color and spread out from there.

4)some of the parts getting cerakote need a special gloss applied to try to match the powdercoated parts as close as possible.

5)my original goal of having all these parts with one color is now looking to have 4 different shades of this color since we need to do 4 different types of applying it. hopefully it will all look good as a whole when on the bike, but there's no way to tell until then. should have everything painted in 4 weeks.

6)i received an original quote from JetHot a few months back of $300-400. thought this was a very general email estimate without them seeing most of the parts.
then i was quoted by the 1st shop about $800 for both powdercoat and cerakote.
today i was just quoted $1375 for just the cerakote parts. the paint itself is $500. can we get some more of that stimulus money??




in the mean time, here's a sneak preview of something getting added on...



100937
 

·
Super Moderator "Loose Nut" - Houston, Texas
2001 Vstar 1100 Classic (sold), 2006 HD Electra Glide Ultra Classic
Joined
·
11,460 Posts
With a slightly different shade of cerakote and paint it might actually be a good thing. As lights hit different surfaces at different angles it changes the hue every so slightly on like painted parts. This normally highlights certain areas to the eye. You are just going to enhance effect a little. Years ago I did some black chrome on a bike. The pieces I had done that were already chrome definitely had a different hue than the raw metal pieces I had done. It looked good and had a lot of compliments on it. On your sneak peak, it's enlightening. Gotta admit, had to go pack to your first posts to make sure recognized what part it was.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #46 ·
catalytic converter cut out. had to contact about a dozen shops before finding someone willing and able and shady enough to do it. i got a good mix of people who didn't think it was worth their time and trouble as well as those who were not comfortable with the legality of it. one guy immediately asked me if i was a cop. i laughed for a second and gave an emphatic "no". silence for about 3 seconds. then he asks me again if i'm a cop. sheesh. finally found a corner muffler shop who did the deed for $120. next i will wrap it before installing it.


101154


101155
 

·
Registered
2002 v star 650 custom
Joined
·
645 Posts
I gotta ask: on the front fender, does the clear Indian light up with the running lights?

My 1950 Pontiac chieftain deluxe had one like that, lit up orange with the running lights.

My 1948 Pontiac hearse had a chrome Indian, but it had some slim wings that lit up red.

Both were stock, no mods.
 

·
Super Moderator "Loose Nut" - Houston, Texas
2001 Vstar 1100 Classic (sold), 2006 HD Electra Glide Ultra Classic
Joined
·
11,460 Posts
catalytic converter cut out. had to contact about a dozen shops before finding someone willing and able and shady enough to do it. i got a good mix of people who didn't think it was worth their time and trouble as well as those who were not comfortable with the legality of it. one guy immediately asked me if i was a cop. i laughed for a second and gave an emphatic "no". silence for about 3 seconds. then he asks me again if i'm a cop. sheesh. finally found a corner muffler shop who did the deed for $120. next i will wrap it before installing it.


View attachment 101154

View attachment 101155
Really wished we lived closer, I've got all the equipment to do that. Plus it would be free. Like the way he cut the vertical line to line things back up. The welding doesn't look all that great, but if it hold and you are going to wrap it all is well. I would recommend some rust converter, it works well before whatever final cleanup and coating you going to do.

101156
 

·
Registered
2002 v star 650 custom
Joined
·
645 Posts
W-O-W. I love it. Would be cool to have a 3 LED light for that. Red/green/blue. A small touch screen or mini joystick to make it any color you wanted. Drooling.
 

·
Super Moderator "Loose Nut" - Houston, Texas
2001 Vstar 1100 Classic (sold), 2006 HD Electra Glide Ultra Classic
Joined
·
11,460 Posts
Or at least make the eyes red. Sunglasses would be nice to protect from the bright Texas sun.

101278


101279
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #52 ·
update -

still waiting on parts back from the 2 paint shops, still trying to find a shop to paint my tank, still trying to get this tattoo artist to move his lazy butt and finish a design he said he would do a month ago, and now i'm trying to figure out how to paint stuff with spray cans. apparently i'm an idiot with this stuff. there are a few parts that i'm painting myself with Rustoleum and i've just tested 2 parts so far, but they did not come out well. i think i know of a few areas i went wrong as i haven't used spray paint since i was a kid, but i'm still confused how to avoid some of the 'pooling' you see in the photos below. i sprayed 2 coats of paint on one side, allowed to dry on the shower curtain they were laid on for paint, then flipped them over to do the other side. then used the same shower curtain to apply 3 coats of Rustoleum crystal clear enamel and i think that just helped pull the paint off even easier.

what i'm doing different for my next attempt: scrub down the parts with some steel wool, first apply some primer, then do 3 coats of paint while laying them on a clean newspaper, allow a full 24 hours to dry before flipping them over to paint the other side on a fresh piece of newspaper, repeat, then allow a full 24 hours to dry before applying 3 coats of clear coat using the same process.

so here's what the 1st round looks like. the paint easily chips off, you can see 'pooling' where i think the paint or clear coat pooled underneath the dirty tarp, and i probably put on too heavy a coat for the clear. many lessons learned. and if you guys have any extra hints, would love to hear them.


101437


101438
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,061 Posts
You shouldn't need primer unless it's bare metal but it certainly won't hurt. Light coats for sure, but I was always told to apply the second coat when it became tacky for best adhesion. I could be wrong there. I'm sure you know to get all that old stuff off there before you repaint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,117 Posts
I’ve also always hung my parts when painting, I generally just feed out some wire from my welder and make hooks for the parts. Hanging them makes sure if I do have any drips they are generally in one spot, the very bottom of the part. You can use a razor knife to cut any drips you have off before applying the clear coat.

Light coats are also a trick with rattle cans, and as soon as it’s tacky get the next coat on. With light coats it doesn’t take long to dry.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,173 Posts
That's the trick, very light coats. I still have a problem following that advice because I want to see the color. I have to make myself walk away for a few minutes then come back for the next coat.
 

·
Super Moderator "Loose Nut" - Houston, Texas
2001 Vstar 1100 Classic (sold), 2006 HD Electra Glide Ultra Classic
Joined
·
11,460 Posts
I wipe down all parts with paint thinner before spraying. Multiple thin coats. High humidity will cause orange peel. Always hang parts. Simply hang coat hangers like this:

101439
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #57 ·
thanks for the tips. it is bare metal on the parts i've already tried, but there are several parts that are plastic including a couple that i know i won't be able to scrub because they are recessed. so i guess i won't scrub those, but should i still apply primer to them where it's possible?

i thought about hanging them to paint for my 2nd attempt, but not sure where i can do that yet. don't want to do it in the garage because i have stuff all over i don't want to get paint on. probably find a tree outside...

will definitely apply successive coats more quickly per your recommendations. the clear coat is tough because you can't really see it going on so i'm probably putting it on way too heavy and then it's just dripping down the sides and collecting underneath.
 

·
Super Moderator "Loose Nut" - Houston, Texas
2001 Vstar 1100 Classic (sold), 2006 HD Electra Glide Ultra Classic
Joined
·
11,460 Posts
Just hang some plastic from ceiling, an old shower curtain works great. I've done this several times and works good.

101461



Try not to do it outside, you will possible get dirt and dust in it. On the plastic parts, use primer used for plastic, it make the new paint stick better.

101462



Wipe all item before painting with a cleaner and/or tack cloth.

101464


101463


If you are painting and think you need a little more, STOP. You will get that spot on the next coat.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Boog and bevo1981

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #59 ·
And then there is the challenge of painting the seat. Couldn't pull the studs without damaging the leather or tearing it apart.


Sent from my LM-V450 using Tapatalk
 

·
Super Moderator "Loose Nut" - Houston, Texas
2001 Vstar 1100 Classic (sold), 2006 HD Electra Glide Ultra Classic
Joined
·
11,460 Posts
And then there is the challenge of painting the seat. Couldn't pull the studs without damaging the leather or tearing it apart.


Sent from my LM-V450 using Tapatalk
Not sure what you are doing there, but that's one heck of a tape job.
 
41 - 60 of 141 Posts
Top