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Discussion Starter #1
Bandit Here,

Long time no Post! I have a 2009 VStar 950, that was purchased NEW by the previous owner in 2011. It had 730 miles on it when I bought it, and prior to buying the bike, the previous owner had just got his first oil change at the Dealer around 700 miles, per the receipt I got with the bike.

My bike currently has 3,200 miles, but I decided to change the oil, just because. Got a WIX Filter and purchased Mobil 1 V-Twin
20-50W Synthetic Oil.

The oil pan bolt was a bitch to get off, I had to use a breaker bar to get it off. I never changed the oil before, but it seemed I was loosening the bolt over 100 turns to finally get it to come off. Looking back and what happened later make me think the oil pan threads might be stripped?


Anyway, drained the oil all day and when I got home tonight I tried to install the bolt and tightened it 50+ turns? Hmmmmmmmmm something ain't right.:(

I tried a few more times and then removed the bolt and as the BOLT Came out, a curly 1 1/2" piece of aluminum/metal came out and fell to the ground. I assume that curly slinky looking metal that came off was part of My oil pan threads?

I am not sure if I need a NEW oil Pan BOLT (mine looks to be OK, and in good shape, but what do I know) :rolleyes:

OK, so now I need to figure out what to do. I am assuming my Oil Pan Threads are slightly Stripped by the DEALER who did the 700 mile oil change and likely over tightened the bolt. I mean, I used a damn breaker bar to get the bolt loose.

So I am not sure what to do? Do I even need a new BOLT? After some GOOGLE searching I read there is something called an Over Sized Oil Pan Bolt that you put in and it self threads the aluminum Oil Pan. Not sure if they make these for a Motorcycle, but I assume they do.

Is that what I need to fix this? Is it definitely the Oil PAN threads that are stripped, and not the Bolt? Again, a long curly piece of Metal Fell out of the Drain Hole when I was taking the bolt back OFF after I couldn't get it to Tighten.

What should I do?


Thanks In Advance!

The Bandit..................:D
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
I found this little write up on the Web:

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Stripped-Oil-Drain-Plug-Repair.pdf

I would like to use a slightly larger self tapping oil pan bolt, which seems to be easy. OK, I will wait for some of you guys replies to see what some of you suggest.

I THINK our standard Bolt is a 14MM X 1.5. If that is Correct, what size OVER Size Oil Plug would I need to buy?
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
OK, back again with some PICTURES!!!! I tok a picture and it appears that the last 1/10th of the END of my Threads (closest to the inside of the oil pan) are the ones that stripped.

In the picture, resting on the hole, I see a little piece of metal????? Is that part of the stripped THREAD, or is that supposed to be there?????????????

I might need to go in there with tweezers to remove that IF it is loose metal. Or maybe a telescoping Magnet????


Here are the Pictures.






 

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Discussion Starter #7
No I think the threads broke when I REMOVED the Bolt as it was on SUPER TIGHT! I am going to pour cheap oil to get any possible metal OUT!

I have no idea how easy it is to REMOVE the OIL PAN???? Or, even HOW TO remove the Oil Pan on MY 09 VStar 950. I Googled and there is NOTHING!

I bought this DORMAN Oil-Tite 14MM x 1.50 Over Sized Oil Drain Plug today at O'Riley's Auto Parts. It is supposed to be put in place of the stock oil pan bolt and it self taps and creates it's own threads as you screw it in. I would obviously unscrew it all the way out before it was fully seated and FLUSH the Crank Case with Cheap Oil to reRemove and metal Shavings.

Then if this doesn't work, I could always drill it out and rethread it, right? Or WORST case, replace the Oil Pan! Damn Yamaha Dealers can't do anything right!!!!!!!!!!!!!!






Part # 65217 Oil Drain Plug Oversize M14-1.50 S.O., Head Size 18MM




http://cdn0.finditparts.com/assets/products/dorman/medium/65217/490312.JPG?1330573584
 

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Unfortunately, there is no oil pan on these motors. The drain plug is threaded directly into the crankcase. Your only two real options are the oversized drain plug or redrilling and tapping the hole. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am confused on a couple things. I can't just go BUY a stock drain Plug, because the threads are stripped and a stock Magnetic Oil Plug won't hold, right Ken448???

Secondly, I already bought the M14 X 1.50 Ovewrsized Oil Plug that you screw in and it self taps a slightly larger hole in yoru oil pan. You guys can SEE my dammage from my PICTURES above.

It appears I have oil pan threads 4/5th of the way up my threads. The final 1/5th is the threads that came loose. IF I attempt to TRY Fixing my issue with the OverSized Bolt, WILL I need to Drill OUT ALL the threads in the Oil Pan? OR, can I just start screwing the NEW over Sized M143 X 1.50 Bolt in the bottom of the oil pan with a Rachet?

If I DO need to drill out all the existing Oil Pan Threads, then what size drill bit will I need to use? a 14MM Drill Bit??? I have never done this before so tyhat is why I am asking.

Also, if I just start screwing the NEW Over Sized Bolt into my Oil Pan, when I am almost done screwing the Oversized Bolt ALL THE WAYIN, should I THEN back it OUT after I am done? To make sure any metal that came loose, falls out of the bottom. Then, as a precaution, I PLAN to Flush the Oil Crank Case with a Quart of cheap Oil to remove any Metal Shavings? Then of course I would put the Over Sized Bolt Back in and snug it up, Gently!!!!! and finish the job I originally intended to do and put my New 20W/50W Synthetic Oil in and get on down the road and PRAY everything holds.

If I mess it up, I am SURE any Dealer or mechanic can just retap the hole Bigger and fix it the RIGHT way? Right???



I'm so FRUSTRATED with this!!!!!!!!!!!! An easy Oil Change turns into a possible nightmare that could mess up my Bike all because the Dealer didn't put the plug in correctly. I bet they used air toold as it was soooooooooooooooooooo damn tight I had to use a 3 foot PVC Pipe over my Rachet to Finally get it to loosen up!

Help Guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I need answers especially on the Oversized Bolt and if I can just start screwing it in the existing Hole without drilling out the existing oil pan threads remaining.
 

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Hey Bandit I notice the head size on the replacement plug is 18mm. Check it closely. It's hard enough to get the 17mm stock plug removed without modifying the box end wrench to do it. Those plugs do work I've used them before just not in a Yamaha. Use it like you would a tap. Turn it a little and back it out. Turn it a little and back it out. Slow as you go and keep the shavings cleaned off.
 

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If you are re-threading, grease the new plug, AND stick a magnet to it. Re-threading while intact would honestly scare the crap out of me because you are MAKING shavings! Im honestly not too sure what route I would take here without seeing whats going on in person.

Does the stock plug thread in at all?
 

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Oil plug

You could try using an expandable oil plug, short term until you decide exactly how to fix it. Just Google it.
 

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+1 on what Ken said. In addition to putting a magnet on the plug, I would fill the crack of the self taping plug with grease. This will act as a lapping compound that should trap most of the fillings. If you're certain that only the last thread is the one that came out, try to install the old plug before you go the self taping route. If the old plug is snug and seals correctly woohoo. Really not sure what else to say man. Wish I was closer so I could go and help out.
 

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+1 on what Ken said. In addition to putting a magnet on the plug, I would fill the crack of the self taping plug with grease. This will act as a lapping compound that should trap most of the fillings. If you're certain that only the last thread is the one that came out, try to install the old plug before you go the self taping route. If the old plug is snug and seals correctly woohoo. Really not sure what else to say man. Wish I was closer so I could go and help out.
That's how I would go, if it goes tight, then put a couple of quarts of cheap oil in. Let is sit, if no leaks, than drain it and get magnetic tip drain plug of the original size.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah guys, the HEAD did say 18MM. I can use a Rachet, BUT, there is a Bevel around the stock oil BOLT, so maybe that 18MM head won't go all the way FLUSH.

I think I am going to wait before I start rethreading with that screw I bought.

I DID see a RUBBER EXPANDING oil plug, but it was a large size for a car. I would rather do that first until I can maybe bring it somewhere so they fix it right.

I am SURE many guys have stripped the oil pan threads on a Yamaha VStar, right? I mean, it wasn't ME that did it, it was the previous oil change that over tightened it.

I figure since JUST the last 15-20% of the threads were stripped (the furthest away end of the threads) I could just use a bolt and it would snug up enough to HOLD, but the stock bolt I was using just turns and turns?

My stock oil plug looks normal, but should I buy a new one to see if the NEW stock oil plug holds? Maybe the Plug I removed was damaged???

I already bought some cheap O'Rileys 10W 40W Oil to flush out the oil before I change it with the good stuff.

Man this really stinks! I was so happy when the oil bolt came off, drained the oil, removed filter. Then the FUN part, putting the NEW Oil back in, and the damn bolt doesn't hold!!!

Should I BUY a NEW stock 14MM X 1.50 Plug and TRY to install it? Again, mine LOOKS it good shape, but I don't know for sure???


Also, would a Longer Oil Bolt be of any benefit? 14MM X 1.75 or 2.00 so it had more area for threads to catch?

OR, should I use something (Tell me what to use please!!!?????) like some type of sealent or thread lock (High Temp) on the threads so the stock oil bolt holds until the next oil change? Then bring it to a dealer and let them fix it Right?

I don't want to start re tapping the hole with the OVER SIZED oil Plug I bought if it screws something up! I'd rather wait and figure out what to do.

The Rubber Oil Expanding Oil Plug would work, but can ANYONE PLEASE give me a link or a size that I need?????? the one I saw was HUGE for a Car.


Thanks so much and it is 75 today in Texas and my Bike is on a Damn stand sitting there. This stinks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Thanks Again for the replies, I REALLY do appreciate it!


P.S. I know what a Magnetic Oil Plig is, but you guys are saying stick a Magnet to the Bolt???? What do you mean? How do I attach it????
 

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Bandit, could you post a pic of the plug? We really can't see the threads in the hole. You said that when you reinstalled the plug, it would just spin and not torque up. I think that you'll have to retap the hole but I would definitely get a new one to compare. The magnet thing was just too capture the fillings when you were going to install the self taping one, then you could jut leave it there or get a real mag plug. I've never seen a expandable plug for cars before so I won't comment on this.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Update from Bandit Feb 22nd 5:30PM

OK guys, I re-evaluated my situation and started to use my head. I always get impatient and have learned, when I do that, I mess things up.

First of all, that curly metal thing that came out of the Oil Hole upon finally removing the Oil Plug I BET was a (Time Sert-That's not the right word, but whatever that stripped repair metal plug "THING" people use to repair threads) which obviously was from the very FIRST oil change. I'm sure the shop repaired the bike after they stripped the threads on the Oil Pan. I tossed the curly metal in the trash as I though it was just the stripped threads from the oil pan.

OK, I am 99% sure I solved my issue and will go try it now. I put 2 washers on my stock plug, and hand tightened it with my fingers, and it held. Before it would hold, and then when it got to the end, it would NOT hold and just Spin. Without the 2 Washers, it just spins and spins. Remember my Stripped threads are at the Very END of the threads, the last 20% closest to the inside of the oil crank case..

I am now confident I can put a few gaskets, crush washers, nylon gaskets, whatever I decide to use, on the oil drain plug and carefully tighten it down and it should hold.

I went to Auto Zone and got a 14MM X 1.50 Magnetic Oil Pan Plug, just to be safe, along with a pack of various 14MM washers, gaskets, rubber and nylon pieces I can use to shorten the length of the oil pan screw/plug that needs to go into the Threads on the Oil Pan.

I was going to use a little blu loctite on the bottom of the new oil plug so it stays put (Blue isn't permanent), but I also bought a little small single use pack of oil plug and filter sealer that was next to the oil plugs. I am going to put a few dabs the bottom 25% of the Base of the new Magnetic Oil Plug before I slowly torque it down just enough so it seats well. I obviously WON"T over tighten it.

I also just Poured 1 quart of cheap O'Riley 10W 40W Motor Oil through the crank case just to get out any possible metal that MIGHT have got in there. I also took my Air Compressor, made a seal, and blew it in the oil crank case to get the remaining oil out, worked great. I didn't know how smart I was... LOL

Anyway, I went from almost rethreading, over sized plugs, to a few washers and a 5 minute fix. I am going down now to give it a go, but I am confident it is going to work.

Thanks for all the replies! I guess I am Lucky the Oil Pan Threads Got stripped out and the END, vs at the beginning of the Threads.

Man I am on Cloud 9! It was ruining my Weekend having a major issue with my Bike hanging over my head. This better work!!!!!!!!!!!


I am using Mobil V-Twin 20/50 Synthetic and a Wix Filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I bought a 14MM X 1.50 Magnetic Oil Pan Bolt, BUT it seemed to BIG??? What size is our Oil Pan Bolt????


Anyway, I put the stock one back in with a plastic black washer and a metal washer with a rubber filled center and tightened it by hand, and then with a rachet. It got hard to turn and I stopped. Hopefully the oil bolt sealer I bought will help it seat!

I put 4.23 US Quarts per the Manual and am about to start her up and see if any oil leaks out. Wish me luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Update 8:30PM

I'm an Idiot!. OK, it seemed to work and not leak, but I noticed a few drops of oil every now and again. The Bolt is NOT Tightened all the way, it still turns and never hits a final resting point.

I ran the bike 5 minutes and no noticeable leaks, but as I said after sitting an hour I noticed some small oil drops, BUT, the bolts is NOT secure, so that is an issue.

I took out the plug WITH the New Oil in it and stuck my finger in there when oil started coming out. LOL I tried to put on some different washers as one that I used had a rubber center and I thought it MIGHT be leaking.

Also, I used 14MM washers, is that too big?????? I NEVER did get a NEW Oil Plug as the 14MM Magnetic one I got from Auto Zone didn't seem to fit, so I put the stock one back in with the 14MM washers I bought. Oil seems to be leaking from the washers very slightly.

I put a RED SOLO Cup under the Oil Plug and will check tomorrow morning how much if any oil leaked out. This sucks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If nothing else, I got it patched enough to ride it to somewhere to fix it. I wonder how much a Dealer would charge to fix it? If I find the receipt for the original oil change that the Original Owner had done at 700 miles, I will go there and tell them what happened. It is obvious they screwed it up to begin with.
 
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