Yamaha Starbike Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Allright all you LED Lighting interested Liner owners. I didn't like the low output of the LED tail light, but do like the looks so I decided my Strat needed some lightening up !

So I purchased a bunch, a few of everything that ( Wal-mart ) had in stock, just to see if it's any good, and how they look. Now my brakes light up the original and 5 more strip LEDS.
A big improvement, I also added two yellow and two red strip led's to run as tail and side lights, it makes a decent yellow / red glow all around the rear at night. Then I tied in two bright
larger square yellow LED units to my existing turn signals. All I can say is it worked out fairly well. All of the LED units got tested before final assembly on my aluminum brackets, I went this way with the brackets for two reasons. One I can easily change out the brackets and also don't have to weld any screw tabs onto my new homebuilt trunk rack.

The wiring was easy to figure out, with the maintenance manual.
Here's what I got:

Brake light = yellow
Tail light = Blue

Right Turn = Green
Left Turn = Brown.

Check out the pictures. rear light assembly is the 6 contact connector under the ECU in it's own little cover bag. I solder spliced and covered with shrink tubing, then covered the whole new set of 4 wires with another long piece of shrink tubeing. Note, the original tail light wiring goes into the fender right behind the battery. and into the top of the tail light unit inside the rear fender. I didn't want to disturb this, so I ran my new 4 wire set of wires down the left and below the big aluminum frame support member and ran it into a big molex connector with female pins. Now each of my new LED lights also ran into the male portion of this connector, it's cable tied together. All the wiring is hidden behind my crooked license plate, I didn't notice it being crooked until I looked at the pictures lol. easy fix.

Oh the lightening project started on Saturday while a huricane was heading my way, got all the critical connections soldered and shrink tubed up. Then we lost our power late Sat night, So finished up during the daylight hours on Sun, with crimp on type connections. I'll see how they hold up, and go back and remake all the connections if I have to.

So for this installation, I did NOT need any equalizers, nothing but straight electical connections. The turn signal indicators work as normal. I used 1032 stainless screws to hold all the LED fixtures to the various brackets and tabs, I had to file a small flat on all of the mounting screws so the len's covers would lock in tight.

Check out the pictures and hopefully this will help somebody.

Enjoy, now if my new windshield would get here, I could put the new fairing and all of it's new LED's and headlights together. Maybe next weekend !.

Then an interior backplate for the Memphis shield fairing, so I can have a glove box with radio/gps,MP3 player/speakers. More work and fun.
Oh the LED lights cost somewhere around 70$ total. And the rack was around 60 $ not counting the paint. If this works our real well, I may unbolt it and have it cromed, but it kind of looks good with all the black items bolted into it.

Duane USN/ret.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,620 Posts
Do you have one of those relays that make it all blink a few times? That will definitely get cagers attention. I like the rack idea.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I don't have any electronics yet.

Just the old fingers pulsing the brake lever, at night the whole front of any vehicle turns red when I have the brake on, I think they can see me, My son was impressed both by the LEDs and how bright the stock headlight is, I can't wait to get my new 4.5" duals on a custom light bar. And a few yellow LED running lights, I almost want to go with a lighted yellow mirror, but it's way to costly that way, but I may put a sidelight LED inside the edge of the fairing tips. Or build them into the cover.

I have lot's of idea's but have to hold back and go slow so I don't overdo it. I made up the rack because nobody has one big enough for the various trunks, I purchased one and it had a 10 Lb weight limit ?. Not for me. this puppy can handle my big self sitting on it. It's made up of 6 3/4 x 3/4 square tubes from the local Home Depot. Tig welded and painted with a automotive rattle can. Works fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,620 Posts
Have you done a load calculation on all the additions? Will your alternator handle the extra draw?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Very good questions, I'll have to do some research.

Hey SparkD

I did some basic WAG type calculations, although I'm an Electronics tech by trade, I figure worst case situation, most current draw, would be while hitting the brake at the same time I have a turn signal selected.

I never did put an amp meter on any of the LED units, but I know for a fact, these little guys draw much less than the equivalent bulb.

I'll break it down like this,

Brake light, the original unit, has maybe 9-14 separate LEDS inside.

Add the new LED's for this light, it has 9 new LEDS. so a few hundred MA's.

Tail light. Dual use 9-14 LED's. plus 8 new LEDS on all the time with the tail light.

Turn signal lights, Original, is a 12 volt single circuit type, I don't know the wattage, but maybe 25-28 watts.

so a few hundred MA's. Now I added a 2 LED yellow side light type to this circuit.

So my basics say I'm adding a maximum of less than a half amp to the alternator load. or 200 - 500MA of intermittent load.

Now I'm sure I'll be running a bigger load once I get my two new smaller passing lights connected under my fairing. I think these puppies are 40-55Watts each.

So 7-10 amps total. And I'm including a few hundred MA's (Milliamps) for the yellow LED side lamps.

But for Grins, I have some spares that I will test to see what they are really drawing. I know it's not near as much as our typical light bulbs. So I'm not worried about it.

I purchased one each of every type I added to the bike as a spare.

These units are made or marketed as BLAZER International.

added today 30Aug11.
OK, I measured the current from two of my spares, the first unit, is 4 inches long, has 6 LEDs included, it's a sidelight unit, I'm using two of them for brake lighting, one unit draws 32ma. And my long lightbar has three short 2 " units, with 3 led's included, So for my total added on brake lighting it's less than 120ma.

I also discovered something else, The same size amber lights draw less, this 4" one drew only 24ma, ok for you non electronic types,
this is .024 amps. 500ma would be a half amp.

Ok, so 120ma for brake lights.
I will check the other light units this weekend. So my WAG was off a bit, it's actually less than 200Ma for the added LED's during full load, this is a turn signal flashing, remember the incandesant bulb in the normal turn signal is running around 23-28watts. this is around 2amps. So with all of my new LED units I'm still drawing less than a tenth of the single turn signal light while flashing.

I will remove the ground connection and wire in the amp meter for a total current load test asap.
Now I"m thinking of changing out all four turn signal lights with LED units.
And an observations, the small LED lighting units are not that costly, when you start going towards headlight type outputs, then you start adding up the cost. My bike is not a show bike at all, so I'm not going overboard with show lighting, just want to be very obvious to others on the road. I have found out that no matter how many lights or strobes you have flashing, some cage doinks still don't see you. So I'm the invisible biker type, they sometimes hear me, or get blinded by the lights lol. But I don't assume anything.

Regards.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top