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Discussion Starter #1
Thinking about buying a 2010 Raider S with just shy off 7k miles. Bone stock, around $5k. What do you guys think?

About me - been riding for almost 20 years, started with Vulcan 1500, than Yamaha Venture and Vstrom 650, now for last couple of years 2013 Goldwing level 4. With the Wing it's mostly two-up. Looking for something for mostly solo rides, occasional half-day two-up. I'm 6'3", around 250lb so Raider sounds like a good choice, both for comfort and for the engine size. Am I right?

What do you guys think?... Good deal? The bike is bone stock so I will need a windshield of some kind, maybe side bags, probably tires soon,...

Any and all info greatly appreciated.

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I ride an 1100 so can't help much on the raider. As far as price below is listings in Texas. There were not any 2010s but several 2008s. Also price is regional, where are you from?

 

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7k miles on a 9 year old bike.

Has it been sitting for a while? 800 miles a year average was ridden on weekends, or the original owner rode it a lot the first few years, then parked it for a long time.

Need to figure out which one it is. Look in the gas tank: is it rusty (left empty for a long time). Is it filled with gas that looks more like tea?

Do you have access to the service records? Most people change the fluids in the bike every two years, including brake fluid, transfer case, coolant on water cooled engines. If it hasnt been done the brake calipers could be corroded and sticky. If the engine oil has not been changed for several years it will break down just from sitting.

The fact that its totally stock is very desirable when buying a used bike. No one has screwed around with the exhaust or intakes or carb jets or fuel injection mapping and messed things up, making the bike run lean or rich for the last 7000 miles.

The price is really up to you. Everyone would love to find a Vstar with less than 10,000 miles on it for $1500 from someone that just wants to get it out of the garage, but if the bike has been well maintained and serviced, never dropped, is all stock, I would not mind paying more than the blue book price for a bike that will last another 93,000 miles.

From a wear and tear perspective the bike is only 7% "used".

and BTW, since yamaha no longer makes any Vstar bikes, the ones that are out there have become more desirable - if you want one, you have to get a used one now.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The owner of the Raider I'm looking for is out of town so I'll check about maintenance and how long it's been sitting when he comes back...hopefully by this weekend.

While waiting, I went today and test rode a 2011 Victory Crossroad. As soon as we got there, my wife said - Why are you checking this one, it's almost as big as our Wing!...

And she's right, it is a big bike. Long, wide bike. Took it for a spin, with Her on the back.

What I liked:
- comfort. Very, very comfortable bike for a tall rider.
- nice power. It gets up and go. Twist the wrist and you are at 60 in no time.
- the look. Very sharp looking bike, big but somehow proportional.

What I didn't like:
- unfortunately, everything else. Brakes felt weak (maybe just needed to be replaced?), the engine have a weird whining sound while decelerating (or maybe it was a tranny?), shifter was very clunky...but that's probably normal...just loud, a constant "buzz" of some sort. My wife was complaining the back of her legs were constantly rubbing onto side bags (big and beautiful bags IMO), and there are no handles of any sort for a passenger to hold onto. In all fairness, it would mostly be a solo riding bike...but it wouldn't hurt to be able to get Her on some day rides.

Overall, back to square one. Waiting till the Raider owner comes back to town. Looks like the Raider or bust...

Still open for any and all suggestions....please. Thank you.

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definitely get all the mechanics checked out before you buy it. as previously stated, you'll probably need to replace all the fluids, hoses, rings, and any number of things that have not been properly maintained. the bike itself should accommodate a bigger biker than most so i'm guessing it will fit you just fine. if my 950 ever blows up, i would jump all over the chance to get a cheap raider.
 

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you'll probably need to replace all the fluids, hoses, rings, ....
pretty sure he means o-rings ....^

Yamaha uses a lot of o-rings on the bike instead of traditional gaskets

If you think the bike will need tires soon, you can use that to haggle the price down if you want. A good set of tires installed at the dealer is going to be around $500.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So, I'm going back to see the Raider I'm planning to buy. And hopefully to test ride it for the first time. I doubt I'll have a chance to take it to the shop to have a mechanic check everything, it's just not gonna be an option (closest mechanic is 45 miles away, no time for it, etc).

That said, what are the questions I wanna ask the owner? Also, what do I want to check myself over there? Don't get me wrong, I bought and owned several bikes before (riding 2013 Goldwing right now, bought used from a private owner) so this ain't my first rodeo....but what do you think would be pertinent to a Raider? Maybe something that's specific for that kind of bike?

It's a 2010 Rider S with 6500 miles on it. Owner recently (in last two years) developed some health issues that's preventing him from riding safely so he's selling it. Bone stock.

Anything specific, any particular part, or a sound of it, rust or chip somewhere, that one bolt, how loose is this and how tight is that,... Y'know what I mean....

Thanks guys.....and I look forward to start asking you more questions next week as a (hopefully) new Raider owner...

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just the stuff I mentioned previously: the #1 problem with a bike that has sat for a long time is rust in the gas tank, or fuel that has partly turned into jello, then got sucked into the filter, fuel pump, carbs or injectors...

Its a bigger problem with carbs, but can also clog injectors. Take a flash light with you, look inside the gas tank: it should be shiny clean steel and clear gas.

ask the owner how he prepped the bike before he stored it. Sometimes people dont know today will be the last day they will ride the bike for the next 2 years, they pull it in the garage with half a tank of gas.. and thats the way it is two years later when they decide to sell it.

There are some known issues with the 1600/1700 engines. I think the only one that was not fully resolved by 2010 is the way the drive pulley is attached to the engine. They improved it over the years, but its still a single nut on the shaft with a washer that sorta locks in place. If that comes loose (usually from hard compression braking) the output pulley will wobble on its splines, and bugger up the output shaft. Unless you grab the pulley and it wobbles in your hands I think all you can do is ask if he ever had to torque it back down?

On the tires: look at the date code on the sidewalls. Its the only thing that is molded recessed into the rubber. It will say DOT something something then WkYr Wk = week of production from 1 to 52, and Yr = last two digits of the year 20XX. They are most likely the original tires, but maybe the rear was replaced.

BTW, I have a question for you. Since you owned a Venture, I just got a used 2000 royal star. The bike had old fuel in it, I have been running seafoam and it seems to be running solid on all four cylinders, but I have noticed: when Im cruising along just barely cracking the throttle open, the engine is very smooth, no vibration at all. But in 4th or 5th gear, if I really get on it, if I crank the throttle wide open, I can feel the engine pulsing and the bike vibrating as it accelerates. Once the engine is up to higher speeds (like 60 in 4th gear) its not so noticeable.

I know there are no counter balancers in this V4 engine - is that pulsing and vibration under full throttle normal? Im worried that maybe one cylinder is dropping out when Im hitting the main jets hard. Maybe Im expecting the bike to be more balanced (like a gold wing) than it really is? I still have to replace the plugs and air filter, so Im not finished with the full tune up yet.

On my last tank of gas Im getting 51mpg riding on secondary roads, so the engine is running well in general. If anything it might be a bit lean. After I accelerate hard up to any speed, and back off the throttle, its completely smooth again - even at 80mph in 5th gear.
 

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KCW any engine pulling hard is going to make more noise ,pulsing ,vibration. I am always surprised at how much more vibration there is on the 650, when I head up a hill and really twist the throttle . Then I picture those little pistons getting hammered in there with all the explosions and ,yea it makes sense that it's vibrating more.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
just the stuff I mentioned previously: the #1 problem with a bike that has sat for a long time is rust in the gas tank, or fuel that has partly turned into jello, then got sucked into the filter, fuel pump, carbs or injectors...

Its a bigger problem with carbs, but can also clog injectors. Take a flash light with you, look inside the gas tank: it should be shiny clean steel and clear gas.

ask the owner how he prepped the bike before he stored it. Sometimes people dont know today will be the last day they will ride the bike for the next 2 years, they pull it in the garage with half a tank of gas.. and thats the way it is two years later when they decide to sell it.

There are some known issues with the 1600/1700 engines. I think the only one that was not fully resolved by 2010 is the way the drive pulley is attached to the engine. They improved it over the years, but its still a single nut on the shaft with a washer that sorta locks in place. If that comes loose (usually from hard compression braking) the output pulley will wobble on its splines, and bugger up the output shaft. Unless you grab the pulley and it wobbles in your hands I think all you can do is ask if he ever had to torque it back down?

On the tires: look at the date code on the sidewalls. Its the only thing that is molded recessed into the rubber. It will say DOT something something then WkYr Wk = week of production from 1 to 52, and Yr = last two digits of the year 20XX. They are most likely the original tires, but maybe the rear was replaced.

BTW, I have a question for you. Since you owned a Venture, I just got a used 2000 royal star. The bike had old fuel in it, I have been running seafoam and it seems to be running solid on all four cylinders, but I have noticed: when Im cruising along just barely cracking the throttle open, the engine is very smooth, no vibration at all. But in 4th or 5th gear, if I really get on it, if I crank the throttle wide open, I can feel the engine pulsing and the bike vibrating as it accelerates. Once the engine is up to higher speeds (like 60 in 4th gear) its not so noticeable.

I know there are no counter balancers in this V4 engine - is that pulsing and vibration under full throttle normal? Im worried that maybe one cylinder is dropping out when Im hitting the main jets hard. Maybe Im expecting the bike to be more balanced (like a gold wing) than it really is? I still have to replace the plugs and air filter, so Im not finished with the full tune up yet.

On my last tank of gas Im getting 51mpg riding on secondary roads, so the engine is running well in general. If anything it might be a bit lean. After I accelerate hard up to any speed, and back off the throttle, its completely smooth again - even at 80mph in 5th gear.
Thank you for all your suggestions and input. Really appreciate it.

Unfortunately, I won't be much of a help when it comes to Venture for two reasons - one: mine never gave me any trouble at all and was running like a champ for all 7 years. Two - I'm quite mechanically challenged.... sorry about that.

Again, thanks a lot for all your input.

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this site has some helpful tips on buying a used bike:

https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/dont-get-burned-used-bike-buying-tips




looks like the '08 and '09 raiders had a recall for the lifters, not sure. but here's how you can find out if there have been any and if it has been done for this bike:


Have the VIN Number handy and call your favorite dealer. They can tell you if the warranty work is outstanding or done. When you call to ask you might politely say "Can you tell me if their is outstanding warranty work on this VIN and if your shop can do it if it hasn't been done". The local shop very nicely looked up my roadstar for the tranny recall and then told me there was no other outstanding warranty work but they would be happy to have my business if I needed work.
 

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Bought my 10 Raider S last May with 4K miles. With low mileage your basically getting a new bike. First thing I did was new tires, plugs, filter and engine and gear case oil change. That's a good price. Be careful on the rear right plug. You should know by riding it if something isn't right.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
And it's here - 2010 Raider S with 6400 miles, bone stock (with passenger backrest). Looks new!...

Registered yesterday, taking it to work today, first short ride. Can't wait...

One quick question - how you remove the sissy bar (passenger backrest)? There's a key and I can unlock it.....and then what? I tried to just lift it but it didn't go easy off so I didn't want to push it too hard. Any explanation and maybe a photo would help a lot.

Also, looking for a good place(s), website(s) for a Raider accessories. Suggestions?...

Thanks.

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The two websites I use the most are BikeBandit and Revzilla.

One thing to check as soon as you get a chance is the preload settings on your suspension. I got my Royal Star two weeks ago, and it seemed kinda soft turning corners. The front and rear preloads were both set to the minimum. I set them to the defaults (factory) settings and the bike is much firmer and precise now. It will change the way the bike handles, so check them (not sure if your front has air shocks like the Royal Star) before you get use to riding the bike the way it is.

Congrats on your new ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The two websites I use the most are BikeBandit and Revzilla.

One thing to check as soon as you get a chance is the preload settings on your suspension. I got my Royal Star two weeks ago, and it seemed kinda soft turning corners. The front and rear preloads were both set to the minimum. I set them to the defaults (factory) settings and the bike is much firmer and precise now. It will change the way the bike handles, so check them (not sure if your front has air shocks like the Royal Star) before you get use to riding the bike the way it is.

Congrats on your new ride.
Thank you. I'll check the manual to see where and how can I check the preload settings.

Do you know how to remove the sissy bar by any chance?...

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no. The saddle bags that came on my bike have a pin you pull out to release them. I dont think they have been off the bike in the last 18 years - I had to yank on them pretty good for them to let go. After that they go on and off easy.

If you think you have all the releases figured take a block of wood or a plastic mallet and just tap it up and see if it pops loose.

That is true for anything, for example if your oil drain plug seems tight, or your spark plugs are really in there, its better to tap the wrench with a hammer and send an impact/shock thru the metal to pop it loose, than it is to brut force torque or yank on it.

If the back rest doesnt move when you tap on it, then something else is holding it.

BTW, to set the preload on most Vstar bikes there is a spanner wrench in the tool set that you must have to change the setting. I dont know where the factory tool kit is on your bike. On some bikes its really hidden.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
no. The saddle bags that came on my bike have a pin you pull out to release them. I dont think they have been off the bike in the last 18 years - I had to yank on them pretty good for them to let go. After that they go on and off easy.

If you think you have all the releases figured take a block of wood or a plastic mallet and just tap it up and see if it pops loose.

That is true for anything, for example if your oil drain plug seems tight, or your spark plugs are really in there, its better to tap the wrench with a hammer and send an impact/shock thru the metal to pop it loose, than it is to brut force torque or yank on it.

If the back rest doesnt move when you tap on it, then something else is holding it.

BTW, to set the preload on most Vstar bikes there is a spanner wrench in the tool set that you must have to change the setting. I dont know where the factory tool kit is on your bike. One some bikes its really hidden.
Thank you for all the info. If you have any more suggestions I'm eager to hear. I'm new to Raider, been riding a 2013 Goldwing for a couple of years now (still have it), prior to that had Yamaha Venture for 7 years.....and a Vstrom 650 in the meantime.

So, any info about a Raider is welcomed!... Thanks for your time.

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Because of the fork rake, in the beginning you feel that gap when turning. For a couple of days my natural inclination was to turn the bars. Of course if you are at low speed in a tight turn you will move the bars. Otherwise just lean as on any bike. Trust that leaning will get you around that corner.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Figured out how to take off the passenger backrest. It just needed a little push, looks like it was never taken off. It's easy now...

Bike runs really well, took me a bit of a "learning curve" to take it through the curve (raked bike) but it actually handles better than I thought it would. I'll check the preload to see how it's adjusted, feels pretty stiff. Not bad, just want to see options to see what I like and prefer.

Need a windshield. Badly. Over 60mph it really hitting right into chest. Any suggestion welcome (windshield size, manufacturer, maybe fairing?...).

Overall, really like the bike. It's a keeper.

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