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Does anyone have any experience with kendra brand tires? Or full bore? Need to replace both tires due to age. Rear is about 8yrs old and front I think is about 18yrs..front is stock Dunlop and rear is metzler 888...just looking for something so I can ride this year. Pair of kendra or full bore are about $170. Which is same as metzler rear...
 

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Which bike do you have?

For the 650 the OEM tires listed in the manual are Dunlop 404s and Bridgestone Exedra's.

I have put both on my bike, the Bridgestone tires are noticeably heavier than the Dunlop 404s, which makes the bike much more stable, and the steering more responsive.

At least keep that in mind, use the Bridgestone OEM tires as the reference point. If the tires you are looking to buy are significantly lighter in weight, it will change how the bike feels and rides. Most websites that sell tires list the weight.

You can save money on tires by taking the wheels off the bike yourself, and taking them in to have the new tires put on the rims. If you have a shop take the wheels off the bike and put the wheels back on, that is about another $70 over the cost of mounting the tires on the wheels.

Motorcycle tires are expensive. If you buy the tires from a dealer and have them do all the work of changing them, then the cost of the tires is equal to the cost of gas you will use over the life of the tires.
 

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Mettzler introduced the 888 in 2013 so it's probably only 5 years old at most. Check the date codes on the tires. Kenda has a good reputation and is a lower priced tire. I like Dunlops personally and the Michelin Commander II. I prefer to get a tire that has longer mileage and some stick to it.
 

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I have used the Kenda Kruz tires on the 650's I used to own. They wear out fast. I only got about 1 riding season on them, but here in the south, we start riding in late Feb/early Mar and have decent riding weather until the end of Nov. In terms of miles, I suppose 5000, but I can't remember exactly.
 

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I put a set of Kenda Kruz on my 1100 last summer. I've got about 5000 miles on them and they're about half worn out - well, maybe a little past half. I'll be replacing them at some point this summer for sure. I almost went with Michelin Commanders but I read good reviews about Kenda and for the difference in price I thought I'd give them a try. Not unhappy with them, although I was hoping for a little more wear. One thing that is a little annoying is the rumble sound when cornering due to the tread pattern on the rear tire. You don't feel it and I got used to it, but it's just one little nuance about these tires. I think I'll go with the Commanders next time.
 

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... Is the rear hard to do? Or just time consuming.
The toughest part about changing any tire is breaking the bead but there are shade-tree methods I've employed because the last thing I need is to buy a bead breaker that takes up quite a bit of space for how little use it gets. When pulling the bead over the edge of the tire two things are important: 1) to get the section of bead that is 180° opposite from the one you're pulling over the edge, into the center trough of the rim. 2) Have a good set of tire irons with smooth edges and use rim protectors (or sections of PEX tubing to snap over the edge of the rim).

 

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I changed the front and rear tires on my 650 once ( a few years back).

Its a lot of physical work if you dont have the machine.

I used a large C clamp to break the bead loose. Since the tire is expended you dont care if you mess it up. Its fairly easy with the C clamp, you can crush both sides, and whichever one lets go first, once you have that side started the rest of it pushes right off. To get the other side loose, put a piece of 1/4" plywood on the tire on the side that has been already pushed in, with the edge of the plywood on the rim of the wheel, and the rest of the plywood on the sidewall of the tire, and screw the clamp in on the other side right by the edge of the rim.

The hardest part is getting the tire off and on the wheel, As Dio said you must push the tire on the bottom all the way into the center U of the rim, then pry off the other side. Without the tire mounting machine holding the wheel in place, the tire fights you for every inch.

The other thing that is surprisingly difficult, if you have tubes, is getting your hand between the tire and the rim to push the tube valve stem in the hole in the rim. The new tires are so stiff it really fights you, you cant just grab the sidewall with your fingers like a bicycle tire and bend it out of the way. There probably is a tool for that too, I dont know what it is.

I have decided its worth the $30 to have the shop do it, but its good to know I could do it myself if I had to.
 

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Update on my tires (Kenda Kruz 671s). I put them on in late June of 2017 and started this season with about half the tread left (had about 5000 miles on them then). I've been keeping an eye on them and noticed they've been wearing down rather quickly in the past month. Last week the rear tire had what I hoped was enough tread to make to the end of the season (another 4 to 6 weeks). I was going to go for a ride today and checked the tires. The front one is down to the wear bars. The rear is bald in the center, and even has some canvas showing in one spot (I remember locking it up briefly when someone cut me off yesterday). Generally, I don't ride hard (well, I sometimes accelerate harder than necessary) but I do ride with a passenger occasionally so those 2 things may have hastened the demise of the back tire somewhat.

So, I paid just under $400 CAD installed on the rims (including 15% sales tax) and put just over 10,000 miles on them. For the price, I'm not complaining. If you're on a budget and looking for a tire that will give decent mileage and performs very well, Kenda is a good choice. I'm picking up another set tomorrow.
 

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^ if you have not already committed to getting the Kendra tires tomorrow then I would encourage you to reconsider.

You did not get 10k on them. The back tire was expired when it got down to the wear bars some time ago, you rode it all the way down to the chords which is pretty risky.

More expensive tires will last longer, up to 15k miles on the rear tire, but consider that it cost about $30 to $50 US just to get one tire mounted and balanced if you take the wheel off the bike yourself, and it will cost $70 to $100 more if you ride the bike to the shop and have them take the wheels off the bike (depending on your bike) - the cost of the tires themselves can be only about half the total price.

I just paid $135 for a new Bridgestone Exedra Max (touring) front tire for my Royal Star from Bikebandit, free shipping in the US.

Another observation: the front tire should last longer than the rear. On my 650 the front tire has been lasting as long as two rear tires. This is because 99% of the time the front tire is just coasting on the bearings, and the rear tire always has the torque of the engine on the tread pushing the bike forward against the wind resistance. If both your tires wore out at the same time, that is unusual. Dont just replace your tires in pairs, always check the tread on the front before you have it replaced.
 

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I plan on trading bikes in the spring so I'm not going to spend $500 on tires when I can put on a decent pair for $300. Prices are higher here in the Great White North and buying from an American supplier doesn't help, and with the exchange rate and shipping it works out the same or more. It's $25 per tire if I bring the rims in for mounting.

As for the wear, I can't explain that either, except maybe that I used the Kenda 671, which is a lighter duty tire than their 673 series. I didn't know at the time but upon further research I discovered it's for lighter cruisers and while my 1100 is only mid sized, I do carry a passenger fairly often. The 673 is designed for heavier loads and should last longer.
 

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ditto on the Mich Commander 2 tires. I looked to get them for my Royal Star, but they were not listed in the size I need for both wheels.

For the Royal Star its either dunlop elite 3 or 4, or Bridgestone Exdra Max for the best rated touring/cruising tires in the right size.

I think I will put the Commander 2 tires on my 650 - both tires will be due next time, so that is the best time to change brands.
 

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what are you planning for your next bike? I dont think you have mentioned this before.
 

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I'm looking for a RoadStar. I like my 1100 but I want a bigger, long stroke, old school type of V twin that will haul me and my wife easily down the highway for some longer tours. I've been researching them and they are as bullet proof as the V Stars, maybe even more so.
 

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I’ve got a royal star venture with the front tire down to a 130 from the stock 150. It came that way but that seems to be the best method to help with the low speed handling per other forums. My bike came with the Michelin’s and nothing but good first impressions.
 

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I had Shinko's on when I bought the bike in January '18. The had enough tread on them to buy it, but I needed new soon. In June I bought the Michelin Commander II. Put it on and I won't mess with another brand of tire. I LOVE them. They ride perfectly. I mainly ride 40 miles to work and back and it has been outstanding!!! I ride an '02 Vstar Custom 1100.
 

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On my 1100 I went from Dunlop to Command IIs. Best change I ever made to bike handling wise. They do very good in rain and don't follow the grooves in concrete roads that we have a lot of. Got 22k on first set and currently have 20k on second. When I bought my Harley it had older Dunlops, changed to Commanders first week I had it.
 
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