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Discussion Starter #1
I have been wanting to do this for a while. I finally ordered some new handlebars (10" ape hangars). I'm a little nervous about having to possibly reroute the wires through the handlebars, but mostly because it's going to be a pain in the butt. I'll also have to replace the clutch cable and the brake line with extended versions of each. I'll try to post pictures as I go.

The only question I really have at this point is about the brake lines. I have replaced brake fluid before, but it was a few years ago and on a car. So I'm familiar with the process of replacing the fluid, but not the actual lines. Am I going to have to drain the brake fluid from all of the brake lines, or can I somehow cut off the flow (to keep air bubbles out of the lines) and only have to replace the brake fluid in the one line that needs to be extended? Should I just try to replace all of the brake fluid in all the brake lines?

Thanks for your input in advance,
Jesse.
 

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It's going to need to be replaced and the brakes bled. The rear is a separate unit so no worries there. It's not much.
 

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if you replace the lines quickly, i would loosen the cap on the master cylinder and then tie the brake lever back and leave over nite,works very good,i completly drained my mc and line over a weeks period.i filled the mc with fluid and tied the lever back over nite refilled the next day and left it for a week the brake is firmer than i have ever seen.
 

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I've heard you can put on 10" apes without having to replace any lines. I've also heard you can go up to 12" and only have to replace the 1 brake line. I have yet to make the switch myself but am hoping to this spring. Good luck! I am interested to hear how things go for you.

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when you say "all the brake lines", are you talking about the rear brake line as well? aren't you only replacing the front brake line? as far as replacing brake fluid, i would replace all of it at the same time. it's cheap enough and you don't want to have to remember which line has older brake fluid than the other and then set yourself up for different intervals of changing brake fluid on 2 different lines at 2 different times. unless i misunderstood you.

if you replace the lines quickly, i would loosen the cap on the master cylinder and then tie the brake lever back and leave over nite,works very good,i completly drained my mc and line over a weeks period.i filled the mc with fluid and tied the lever back over nite refilled the next day and left it for a week the brake is firmer than i have ever seen.
what does "replace quickly" mean? you took a week to drain it? did i miss something?

this whole thread is confusing
 

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if you replace quickly you might not get air below the lowest connection.replacing all the fluid is the best thing.but tying the lever back over night works.i didnt even try to bleed just tied the lever.i have 10 inch apes with 4 inch risers and my clutch is 6inch over throttle 2 inch over and brake is at least 2 over 07 custom.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, thanks guys.

when you say "all the brake lines", are you talking about the rear brake line as well? aren't you only replacing the front brake line?
Bevo, I was thinking that all of the brake lines were one unit, not separated into front and rear, that was what I meant by "all the brake lines". Now that I know that the front and rear are separate units I'll end up replacing the fluid in the front lines first, and then the back lines later in the season.

Nick, I'm pretty confused by what you are talking about. What do you mean by
tying the lever back over night works.i didnt even try to bleed just tied the lever.
Do you mean that you tied the brake lever down to the handlebar and just poured brake fluid down the lines until you didn't see air bubbles anymore and then released the brake lever?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
you tie the lever to the handle it doesent have to be hard. loosen resivoiuer cap and overnight the bubbles will float to the top.
Ok, that makes much more sense. Thanks for that tip. The one thing I hate about changing the brake fluid is sitting there and trying to get all the bubbles out of the lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, the handlebars came in today and it is looking like my brake line is just barely too short. I've called a couple of the Yamaha dealers around me and no one has any "custom length" brake lines...so I'm going to the custom harley shop by my house and having them make me some. That will hopefully be tomorrow morning. I'll let you all know how that works out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got the brake line today, its braided cable and looks really nice =) I also ended up ordering some 12" ape hangers, because the 10s were still a little to far away for me...fyi, being short sucks. The 12s will be in tomorrow according to he shop and I'll reattach everything. When I had the 10s mounted, I checked the cables and it looked like they would be long enough for the 12s so I hope that's true. I guess we'll find out tomorrow.

Also, for anyone who is interested, I couldn't return the 10" apes because it was special ordered and the shop has some rule against returning special ordered items... So those are for sale. I got them for $95 not including tax. I'll post more detail in the "for sale" part of the forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The 12s came and are now installed. I had to reroute some of the cables, but the only thing that needed to be replaced was the brake line. I made my first mistake when I went to drill the hole for the throttle housing...I drilled the hole a little to the right. I guess my measurement was off. I widened the hole and it will be fine, just a little irritated at a simple mistake like that. Glued the grips on, that will be dried and set tomorrow.

Went a head a bled the brakes. After I got fed up and tied the brake lever to leave it overnight I went searching for alternative methods. I found one on the wiki page and then found a video of it on youtube (here is the link
). Definitely doing that next time, I hate trying to get the air bubbles out the conventional way.

So far the things I would do differently are to not buy the handlebars from a catalog, but from a shop and if I can hold them in my hands. Triple check my measurements. And do a reverse bleed of the brakes rather than the conventional way. Other than that everything has been pretty smooth. I'll take pics tomorrow when everything is done.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Ok, I finished. The brake lines are still soft so I'll end up bleeding them again tomorrow. I still need to clean up the cables and what not so it doesn't look so ugly, but that's a problem for later. Only one thing did not have enough reach to make it to the handlebars and that was my button for the Kuryakyn Constellation lights, so I put it by the riser (second to last photo). The last photo was the bike with my old bars. Not a great pic, but the only one without my windshield on.

I really like how these bars (drag specialties 12" apes) turned out. They were cheep ($95) and look really nice. I took her on a quick ride around town and it is so nice being able to be completely relaxed in the seat and not having to reach for the bars. It was totally worth any and all frustration from the installation process. I definitely suggest doing this if your are thinking about it and on the fence.
 

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