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Discussion Starter #1
Picked up a 2007 with 6200 miles on it for cheap.

This is a California model.

I've:

Change oil/filter
Relocated bars
Rear brake lever relocated
Grasshopper backrest
Alaska butt pad
lubed everything (windshield was practically welded on the rollers)
Transfer case drain/fill

Tonight I tackled the plugs and air filter

Gapped to .85mm OEM plugs DPR8EA-9
Oem air filter
dielectric grease on ends of boots
I am missing one bottom sleeve(whatever its called) on the back cyl left boot)

I was care to secure and successfully clamp down all air/vac lines but I am receiving a varied idle between 700-900 while before it was steady at 850ish. During light throttle its now missing/surging (lean condition).

My guess is i got a crack in a vac line or the 2 halfs of the airbox arent seated properly. I supposed a boot could be slightly unseated as well but it runs good on full or heavy throttle so I think spark is good.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
i also pulled code 22 and 30 which is probably from the previous owner i cleared and they didnt return after a check ride.

errors are air temp sensor which i checked diag 5 and its functioning, tip over ia anyones guesa.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Scratch my "missing" item on the rear left spark plug, looking at the fiche it appears to be the odd man out. Found the left 2 "vac" lines from the airbox are also just drains so nothing to worry about there either.

I'm thinking maybe a plug boot isnt fully seated. I was probably to gentle.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well this was not corrected. The miss came back under light throttle (under 20% on tps).

Looks like the DIAG D09 test shows 11.6 volts during the fuel pump voltage drop test. Pretty low, yamaha states this should be 12 or higher.

I pulled the battery, it looks like a recent replacement. With the low miles from the previous owner and the long years in service I'll assume the owner never put this bike on a maintainer and road it very little per year killing at least 2 batteries. I ordered a cheap battery from batterysharks.com, well see how it goes. I ordered a replacement multimeter (mine died) so I can then check old/new batt voltage and go through the charging system. Its entirely possible I have a charging issue as well but I doubt it.

I tested using the onboard D09 values by riding around at 75-80 for 15 minutes in 4th gear putting it in decently high rpm testing the charge rate. Pulled over and checked D09, went from 11.6 to 12. I then rode around for 15 minutes in traffic at under 1800 rpm voltage was 11.8. Seems like mid range rpm is putting out enough charge to bring volts up quickly and low rpm charge is enough to maintain and at least charge the battery. Terminals have been cleaned/sanded etc...

I rec my new battery and multimeter tonight, testing should be more definitive then.

http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
 

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Keep us posted, good stuff!
 

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Engine off, battery should read 12.7 +. Engine idling, should be 12.5/8, at 3000 RPM should be 14V or better
 

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Discussion Starter #8
welp found the problem. I cross threaded the front right plug so it wasnt seated fully which caused the missing.

Not sure what to do at this moment, retap the hole and pray a new plug doesnt blow out or take the head off and send it to a machine shop.

why do i do this to myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
welp looked at the service manual, pulling the front head doesnt look like that big a deal on these non OHC motors. I'll pull the head, helicoil it or similar , install the dang plug the easy way, when the head is out of the bike :)

That way I know its repaired and much less chance of tapping/helicoiling crooked.
 

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Wow man that really sucks. No matter what ya do, yer gonna have to pull the head to repair it so ya don't get any shavings in the engine. That would be really bad. Had to repair my quad when I got it cause someone did a heli-coil repair on the plug hole. What a mess! Had shavings even in the carburetor some how. Lots of damage. And they wondered why it wouldn't run, lol. Valves were stuck open permanently. Anyway, good luck in making your repairs and getting back into the wind.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks man. I do a lot of dumb things like buy broken german cars just so I have something to work on. In this case I wasnt expecting to pull the head since the bike ran well but thats the way the poop-cookie crumbles sometimes. Now that i'm over the anger I really look forward to:

Pulling the front header
Pull the throttle body assembly
Pull the intake manifold
Verify front cyl TDC
Take the upper valve cover and head off
Remove rocker assembly
Pull front head off...determine how much work and pain this is then go for the rear head just so I can pre-emptively helicoil those holes While the bike is hard down

I will become an xv1900 cyl head expert!!!!

All things considered this bike is way easier to work on them my Connie14/zx14r I had previously. My main focus will be to take my time and not strip anything else :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
header off
engine supports off
throttle body out
intake manifold out
almost all bolts out of the valve cover, need to go pick up some ball ends to get the front few bolts out

Hopefully I'll have the front head out tomorrow sometime, i'll then decide if I want to drop the entire exhaust and pull the other head. I love break/fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This really wasnt that big a deal, no coolant system, head is very sturdy, used relatively low torque head nuts that look reusable. Removed the muffler/slip on and losened the rest of the exaust system to get enough wiggle room on the front header. unbolted oil lines, there is pleanty of room once you get all the lines and connections up and out of the way

I found TDC for the front cyl by cranking the engine in neutral with a dowel in the bad spark plug hole until i saw the intake valves dip, the piston rise/fall then rise again so both valves had no movement, worked out fine.

To my dismay though my pushrods have no more paint left on them but then i was relieved that the front cyl has equal length rods. yey
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No machine shops around wanted to take on such a small job so I ordered a 12mm x 1.25mm x 18mm helicoil kit

Spark plug is 12mm thread diameter, 1.25mm pitch, and 19mm thread length so the 18 should let my have it .5mm counter sunk on both ends.

I will coat the outside of the helicoil with red/copper rtv to keep it in place

31/64th bit (12.3031mm) to drill out the existing threads

i'll let yall know how it goes, so far this is the easiest major repair ive done on any vehicle. Everything is very straight forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Replacement gaskets, rocker cover, rocker plate, head gasket, 2 o rings for rod guide, 4 copper washers for oil pipes

some other items (replace a chewed up fastener for wiring harness holder)

YP-1D7-11181-00-00 1D7-11181-00-00 GASKET, CYLINDER HEA 1 0 0 0

Estimated Ship Date Updating
$20.58 $20.58
YP-1D7-11182-00-00 1D7-11182-00-00 GASKET, CYLINDER HEA 1 0 0 0

Estimated Ship Date Updating
$13.73 $13.73
YP-1D7-11193-00-00 1D7-11193-00-00 GASKET, HEAD COVER 1 1 0 0 0

Estimated Ship Date Updating
$25.78 $25.78
YP-90111-06010-00 90111-06010-00 BOLT(4EB) 2 0 0 0

Estimated Ship Date Updating
$0.36 $0.72
YP-90430-10188-00 90430-10188-00 GASKET 4 0 0 0

Estimated Ship Date Updating
$1.85 $7.40
YP-93210-472A9-00 93210-472A9-00 O-RING 1 0 0 0

Estimated Ship Date Updating
$6.04 $6.04
YP-93210-53638-00 93210-53638-00 O-RING 1 0 0 0

Estimated Ship Date Updating
$6.04 $6.04


BikeMaster Valve Clearance Adjustable Wrenches

Permatex 81160 High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket, 3 oz.

Vermont American 10487 31/64-Inch - 3/8-Inch Shank HSS Drill Bit

Heli-Coil 554312 M12X1.25 Metric Kit

4 PCS *NEW* --- NGK # 4929 Standard Spark Plugs -- DPR8EA-9

15cm 6" Length 0.02mm-1.0mm Thickness Metal Metric Feeler Gauge
 

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If you have a tap the size of the spark plug, you might try running it in the hole from inside the head. It just might clean up the threads enough to re-install the spark plug. If no tap use the threaded end of an old plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That was my first choice but the top 2-3 threads are crushed/mangled, the rest are actually fine. However with any fastener most of the clamping force is on the first few threads so i figured i'll just helicoil it and make it stronger and steel on steel for the next guy. If the repair isnt to hard i'll preemptively drill out the other plug as well to avoid any future disasters..... you know until i botch the rear head as well :)
 

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No turning back, spark plug threads have been drilled out. helicoil should be here in an hour. I'll perform the hopefull repair and post back with how it went.
you might wan't to consider something a little stronger than ultra copper to hold the thread insert . i tried that on an outboard motor and the insert kept coming out with the plug until used loc tight on it. you can also stake one thread to hold it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I opted for no sealant. my tap started to go a little cockeyed past the halfway point. I'm fairly positive this plug is gonna blow out as soon as it get to operating temp.... But we gotta try it out :)

I probably wont get all my gaskets and such in until next week unfortunately. But for now it seats and feels exactly like the OEM tapped plug well on the opposite side so maybe i'll upgrade from fairly positive of failure to 50/50 failure.
 

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