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Discussion Starter #41
@dmil123 , thank you. In the instructions, it says 1st to align with the sprocket and dot, and then the next step says to check the timing mark. So I need to adjust the timing mark, but then the sprocket and dot get misaligned a tiny bit. But since the timing mark is the 2nd step, that wins. Got it. So it looks like the timing mark takes precedence. It does not give instructions for aligning the "TI" alignment, should I align on the T or the I?
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Discussion Starter #42
@dmil123 , thank you. In the instructions, it says 1st to align with the sprocket and dot, and then the next step says to check the timing mark. So I need to adjust the timing mark, but then the sprocket and dot get misaligned a tiny bit. But since the timing mark is the 2nd step, that wins. Got it. So it looks like the timing mark takes precedence. It does not give instructions for aligning the "TI" alignment, should I align on the T or the I? View attachment 91232
Ahh, the picture diagram does answer the TI alignment question. I have to line up the I.
 

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The way I adjust valve clearance has worked for years for me on street and race vehicles, cars and bikes. Go to the pits at any track, car or bike, and watch the pros adjust the valves. You turn crank while wiggling the rocker. You can feel the rocker arm moving. When it's in the highest point, stop turning crank. Then measure gap and adjust valve if needed. When you are adjusting valves it the measurement between rocker arm and valve stem at the loosest point. It makes no difference which stoke the piston is on. The cam lobe does not care either, you are either on the cam lobe or you are off the cam lobe. Now if you want to check you cam timing as well, then by all means line the timing gear marks up and do it that way. Today's timing chains don't stretch enough to actually worry about it, in my opinion.

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Ahh, the picture diagram does answer the TI alignment question. I have to line up the I.
glad to help. Hope you caught that there are different timing marks for the front and rear cylinders as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
m does answer the TI alignment question. I have to line up the I.
The way I adjust valve clearance has worked for years for me on street and race vehicles, cars and bikes. Go to the pits at any track, car or bike, and watch the pros adjust the valves. You turn crank while wiggling the rocker. You can feel the rocker arm moving. When it's in the highest point, stop turning crank. Then measure gap and adjust valve if needed. When you are adjusting valves it the measurement between rocker arm and valve stem at the loosest point. It makes no difference which stoke the piston is on. The cam lobe does not care either, you are either on the cam lobe or you are off the cam lobe. Now if you want to check you cam timing as well, then by all means line the timing gear marks up and do it that way. Today's timing chains don't stretch enough to actually worry about it, in my opinion.

View attachment 91243
@lesblank , Thanks for the diagram to show how the valves work. I guess with practice I will be able to do it like in your procedure you laid out. It took me about 3 hours total to do it the 1st time.

@dmil123 Yes, the "I" mark for the Front Cylinder and the TI for the rear. I only had to adjust the "Front Intake" everything else I left as-is, as it was within spec. I also changed the tappet gaskets. The Front Exhaust tappet has one bolt that was so difficult to tighten. I couldnt get to it well with the 10mm, i don't think i put enough torque in that 1 screw because it was a pain in the butt. I'll try again tomorrow to tighten it.

Front Intake 8 to 9
Front Exhaust 13 to 14
Rear Intake 8 to 9
Rear Exhaust 13 to 14
 

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Discussion Starter #46
@lesblank , Thanks for the diagram to show how the valves work. I guess with practice I will be able to do it like in your procedure you laid out. It took me about 3 hours total to do it the 1st time.

@dmil123 Yes, the "I" mark for the Front Cylinder and the TI for the rear. I only had to adjust the "Front Intake" everything else I left as-is, as it was within spec. I also changed the tappet gaskets. The Front Exhaust tappet has one bolt that was so difficult to tighten. I couldnt get to it well with the 10mm, i don't think i put enough torque in that 1 screw because it was a pain in the butt. I'll try again tomorrow to tighten it.

Front Intake 8 to 9
Front Exhaust 13 to 14
Rear Intake 8 to 9
Rear Exhaust 13 to 14
Sorry, I put in the decimals. Intake didn't let .10mm pass and the exhaust didn't let .15mm pass.
Front Intake .08 to .09mm
Front Exhaust .13 to .14mm
Rear Intake .08 to .09mm
Rear Exhaust .13 to .14mm
 

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Is the bolt you are talking about hard to reach or is it hard to turn in. Hard to reach, Just take your time. Difficult to turn, be careful you don't strip the threads out. Anti seize can be your best friend.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Is the bolt you are talking about hard to reach or is it hard to turn in. Hard to reach, Just take your time. Difficult to turn, be careful you don't strip the threads out. Anti seize can be your best friend.
Hard to reach . I managed to get it snug, but I think it needs another 1/4 turn. I'll try again tomorrow.
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well done Cheetat1. I will be doing the same on my bike for the first time along with new fuel lines as soon as the weather breaks.
 

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Hard to reach . I managed to get it snug, but I think it needs another 1/4 turn. I'll try again tomorrow.
View attachment 91255
That's the IAS that's in the way. The IAS injects air into the exhaust to lower the emissions. I have a slender set of open end wrenches that assist in tight quarters. Patients, you'll get it. Remember to tighten both screws together to help seal the gasket.
 

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that bolt is hard to get a wrench on, you really want to use a torque wrench on those because you can crush the tappet cover easily

the thing you need is called a crows foot - it looks like the end of a box wrench that you can put a socket driver on (torque wrench)

for some of these odd reaches with the wrench it really is worth the few extra bucks to get the 1/4" drive torque wrench, or the 3/8" to 1/4" adapter, or the snake drive extension, or the crows foot for that ONE bolt on your bike...

because if you crush the tappet cover or strip out the threads, it will always leak oil, unless you spend about three days fixing the thread you stripped out

after a year or so you will have a nice set of tools that are specifically useful for your motorbike - thats a good thing
 

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The way I adjust valve clearance has worked for years for me on street and race vehicles, cars and bikes. ... You turn crank while wiggling the rocker. You can feel the rocker arm moving. When it's in the highest point, stop turning crank. Then measure gap and adjust valve if needed. ....
les, I agree with this in theory

in theory when the cam is not on the lobe, it should be the same diameter all the way around

but is it really? to a few thousands of an inch?

the way you describe finding the loose point is subjective - you might stop at different points every time you check it, and you might be adjusting them because they are slightly off
where if you turn it till the mark on the crankshaft lines up you are always on the same spot on the cams

I usually dont pull the covers off the ends of the cams, just the cover to get the wrench on the crank shaft, and I go by those marks - if Im on the timing mark on the crank shaft and either tappet is tight (pushed in) I know I have to go all the way around 360 - and then the timing mark on the crank shaft is close enough (you can feel the play on the tappets)
 
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