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Discussion Starter #1
A few newb questions I'd appreciate feedback on:

1) She starts fine, but when cold (meaning not run in last few hours, not "cold" weather) always requires "choke" to go. Then get lumpiness/hesitation until she's good and hot - e.g. 3-5 minutes riding, 5+ minutes just idling in the driveway. Is that normal? If not, what should I be checking? Look at the plugs? Check valves?

2) I'm getting about 125 miles before having to flip to reserve. IIRC, that's about 35 MPG. That's mostly lower-speed hilly roads (e.g. windy mountainous two-laners running 35-50 MPH). I'm pretty heavy on the throttle when accelerating, and I probably tend to run a gear lower than ideal for max mileage. Don't know my avg revs (tach on the way), but typically am shifting on the 10's - e.g. 2nd at 20MPH, 3rd at 30, etc.

3) Coming up on 24K and will likely take in to the local dealer to do that for now. Any particular issues I should have them look at, check out?

4) "Remote" oil filter kit. Having my first service as owner done by the dealer notwithstanding, I tend to do my own maintenance. I'd like to opt out of pulling the pipes for every oil change and put in a remote kit. Any feedback on the variants and which one is recommended? I've seen some disturbing posts/videos about some with too-small lines leading to starvation at startup.

5) Saddlebag reccos. I have Saddlemen soft, non-locking bags that are in "okay" shape, but starting to show their age. Interested in getting lockable hard bags. Suggestions/experiences welcome.

Thanks in advance for your input.

KC
 

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As for number 1 - You might need to clean the Carbs. I notice issues with that kind of thing on my 2003 FZ1(also carbed) and I have to run injector cleaner through the tank to get it running better. Eventually I should pull the carbs off and have them cleaned at the shop. Our fuel has so much ethanol in it the build-up starts to gunk things up.
 

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A few newb questions I'd appreciate feedback on:

1) She starts fine, but when cold (meaning not run in last few hours, not "cold" weather) always requires "choke" to go. Then get lumpiness/hesitation until she's good and hot - e.g. 3-5 minutes riding, 5+ minutes just idling in the driveway. Is that normal? If not, what should I be checking? Look at the plugs? Check valves?

2) I'm getting about 125 miles before having to flip to reserve. IIRC, that's about 35 MPG. That's mostly lower-speed hilly roads (e.g. windy mountainous two-laners running 35-50 MPH). I'm pretty heavy on the throttle when accelerating, and I probably tend to run a gear lower than ideal for max mileage. Don't know my avg revs (tach on the way), but typically am shifting on the 10's - e.g. 2nd at 20MPH, 3rd at 30, etc.

3) Coming up on 24K and will likely take in to the local dealer to do that for now. Any particular issues I should have them look at, check out?

4) "Remote" oil filter kit. Having my first service as owner done by the dealer notwithstanding, I tend to do my own maintenance. I'd like to opt out of pulling the pipes for every oil change and put in a remote kit. Any feedback on the variants and which one is recommended? I've seen some disturbing posts/videos about some with too-small lines leading to starvation at startup.

5) Saddlebag reccos. I have Saddlemen soft, non-locking bags that are in "okay" shape, but starting to show their age. Interested in getting lockable hard bags. Suggestions/experiences welcome.

Thanks in advance for your input.

KC
For 1. as suggested, sounds like it's time for a carb clean up as that's not normal. Choke on cold for me is open maybe 1 minute and then good to go... slowly push it back in and she's purring. It's actually not advisable for running the bike with the choke open for more than a couple of minutes... it can really heat up and blue your pipes. I believe it actually says that right in the owner's manual.

2. Check out http://www.starbikeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6518&highlight=gas+mileage

3. It really depends on the driver, I have no idea what RPM I shift and and even with a tach, I would never look at it, same with a car when it's manual. You can feel when the bike needs to shift, a certain sound of the engine and amount of vibration. Your bike should not be screaming and rattling apart when you shift, you're shifting too late. Should be a nice comfortable smooth ride as you shift through. Honestly, a tach is a toy that you'll barely look at... inn fact the only time I would look at it is for power testing or something when I have to be at specific RPMs. It would be totally ignored for driving purposes.

Also, the manual will tell you when it recommends to shift... but if it's like the 650, the speeds are really conservative imo.

4. I'm on the fence on these... some people LOVE them, others don't recommend them. I would probably go for one, just get one with the bigger lines, compare on eBay and you'll see there's 2 or 3 line sizes. Don't buy a cheapo.

5. Can't help you here, my vstar was customized to allow for 1970's Harley panhead bags. I actually completely rebuilt them and wired up some nice LEDs in them this past winter.

Happy riding!

Dan
 

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For the price on an ORK....I'd wait and do 3 oil changes on it first. You'll probably discover like a lot of us (as long as you have a 2-2 pipe)...it's just really not a big deal. You can just loosen the pipes without removing them. Plus you can get in and clean the tight areas behind the pipes that way too.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
For the price on an ORK....I'd wait and do 3 oil changes on it first. You'll probably discover like a lot of us (as long as you have a 2-2 pipe)...it's just really not a big deal. You can just loosen the pipes without removing them. Plus you can get in and clean the tight areas behind the pipes that way too.
I may give it a shot before I go ORK, but I have Cobra 2-into-1 pipes and from the look of it, those babies are gonna have to come full-off to get at the oil filter...
 

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For the price on an ORK....I'd wait and do 3 oil changes on it first. You'll probably discover like a lot of us (as long as you have a 2-2 pipe)...it's just really not a big deal. You can just loosen the pipes without removing them. Plus you can get in and clean the tight areas behind the pipes that way too.
The other issue is that it's very easy to strip the bolt holes on the block, so people are worried doing this year to year can cause damage. My current bike was serviced by a dealer around 2006 when my brother had it they stripped one and had to insert a helicoil.

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I use this:

http://lucasoil.com/products/fuel-treatments/lucas-fuel-treatment

For my FZ1, I have a 5 gallon tank so I dump the entire thing in when I put in a fresh tank of fuel.
Always been a fan of the Lucas products... Though I actually went with Sea Foam per some guys I talked to hereabouts. Put 4oz in then filled up, and did a 20-minute run around the neighborhood to work it through. Truth will out once I run some more gas through it, I think, but it -seemed- to be smoothing out already and seemed quieter generally. That could just be psychological/perception, of course. The real test will come tomorrow morning when I start it from dead cold and compare to how it was before. Fingers crossed... would prefer NOT to be yanking/cleaning the carbs just now.
 

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Always been a fan of the Lucas products... Though I actually went with Sea Foam per some guys I talked to hereabouts. Put 4oz in then filled up, and did a 20-minute run around the neighborhood to work it through. Truth will out once I run some more gas through it, I think, but it -seemed- to be smoothing out already and seemed quieter generally. That could just be psychological/perception, of course. The real test will come tomorrow morning when I start it from dead cold and compare to how it was before. Fingers crossed... would prefer NOT to be yanking/cleaning the carbs just now.
I tried Seafoam a few times because that is what the guys on the FZ1 boards were recommending and I never felt like it fully did the job, I started getting hard to start issues and stalling much sooner than I have seen with the Lucas Product. But that is on my FZ1, which has 4 carburetors.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Great feedback, Klurejr. Thanks.

Based on what you say, I'll run the seafoam tank through and see how it goes. If not satisfactory, will give the Lucas a try before I start ripping the carbs apart... I don't mind wrenching on the bike when needed, but old and busy enough that I prefer to avoid it when I can...
 

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Great feedback, Klurejr. Thanks.

Based on what you say, I'll run the seafoam tank through and see how it goes. If not satisfactory, will give the Lucas a try before I start ripping the carbs apart... I don't mind wrenching on the bike when needed, but old and busy enough that I prefer to avoid it when I can...
No problem. Let us know how it goes!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update re: seafoam & starting:

I'm guessing something was gunked up somewhere and the seafoam did its work, 'cuz this morning she fired right up and idled great, no choke at all...

On a separate note, I balanced the carbs and they were rather outta whack. Front was pulling WAY more vacuum. Took 3/4 turn of the balancing nut to get 'em in synch. (That may also have been part of the starting/idling problem, but the balancing happened -after- the morning startup, so still giving seafoam due credit...)
 

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Awesome!

I have found that after using the Lucas product I linked I do not even need the choke to start up my FZ1, which is nice.
 
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