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Discussion Starter #41
Good **** guys thank you so much the more never hurts to gain more knowledge! Ok so my next question would be if there is an air leak is there some way, any way to fix it without buying new parts??! I am very crafty and good with my hands, definitely willing to put in work especially when it saves my wallet! Is there any tips or tricks that may save me from having to buy those parts again they are less than a year old!!
 

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Ok thanks this is kind of more of a sudden thing it was running fine and then just started doing that I thought I ran out of gas got to the gas station and it was half a tank?!
Did it go away when you filled the tank? I know on the 1100 it really doesn't need the fuel pump until you get below 1/2 tank because then the bottom of the tank is below the carbs
 

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Ok thanks this is kind of more of a sudden thing it was running fine and then just started doing that I thought I ran out of gas got to the gas station and it was half a tank?!
That's exactly what happened with my son. While riding home from purchasing the bike, he "ran out of gas". He managed to make it to a nearby gas station and the bike only took half a tank of gas. He got the bike home with no problem, but the next time he rode it, same issue. The quick check is this: if you are riding the bike and it stops as if it's out of fuel, hold the front brake and push the handlebars to move the front suspension up and down a couple of times. If the bike starts after doing that, you have something blocking the fuel line to the aux tank/fuel pump. More than likely a piece of the liner.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Did it go away when you filled the tank? I know on the 1100 it really doesn't need the fuel pump until you get below 1/2 tank because then the bottom of the tank is below the carbs
No I filled it and back up to full after draining what I was hoping to be bad gas
 

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Spark plugs produce a different spark depending on how they made. Some have a hotter spark , some have a colder spark. This is why you use the spark plug that the engineers design the engine for. Running too hot a plug will cause burning on the valves and can also cause pre-ignition, if it is too cold it will not fully ignite the fuel causing excessive fouling of the plugs
I remember this question from the old NAPA days, it's got to do with the insulation around the electrode - the spark is no different. Since this is a radical and unpopular explanation (all the old dirt track racers didn't believe it), I present you the NGK page.

The term heat range refers to the speed with which a plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head.
NGK Heat Range Explained
 
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I remember this question from the old NAPA days, it's got to do with the insulation around the electrode - the spark is no different. Since this is a radical and unpopular explanation (all the old dirt track racers didn't believe it), I present you the NGK page.



NGK Heat Range Explained
So, if I read that article correctly, it sounds as if the spark plug is working as a heat sink to drain heat out of the cylinder in such a way that the cylinder temp remains at the optimum operating temperature. Is that correct?

Now I'm gonna think out loud, I'm strictly speculating because I really don't know a lot of this stuff, if I'm wrong correct me. The engineers decide they want a specific temperature within the cylinder to ensure complete combustion. From this starting point, they perform a bunch of calculations and come up with the size of the cylinder they need for a particular temperature, the material its made from and the size of the cooling fins they'll have to have (or how much water running around) to keep it at the correct temp. When the plug sparks, the temp rises. In order to get the cylinder temp back to where it needs to be, the plug sucks out the excess heat.

Sound good or should I go back to electricity?
 
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I would suspect that compression ratio and engine rpm's have more impact on heat generation. The plug is a heat sink but I think the heat range is trying to balance it from hot enough to prevent electrode tip fouling but cool enough to prevent pre-ignition.
 
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Discussion Starter #48
So I am just going to but some new parts but before I do I just wanted to check with you guys and make sure that the only way that "unmetered" air can get through would be through the intake underneath the carb correct nothing above the carb is that right?
 

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Correct, air can leak through the connection between the head and the intake, when connecting it use a small amount of gasket sealant.
Also the intakes can have cracks in them from the rubber drying out , these you would need to replace. The top of the intake to the carb has a clamp , if it isn't tightened it could leak there. that is it. the rest of the air goes through the carb and is mixed with your fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Copy that thanks you definitely saved me some money there! Any suggestions for an OEM YAMAHA parts website?
 

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I use Partzilla as the only OEM part site, if you call and make the order they have military discount also.

I sent Les a PM to come to this thread, he is great with the parts to repair stuff like what you need ( he works in a parts house as the warehouse mgr.)
 

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I use Partzilla as the only OEM part site, if you call and make the order they have military discount also.
Sure, now you tell me. Most of my grip parts arrived today, there are still a couple being placed on a slow boat from China. They won't be here until May. Nobody said nuttin' bout no discount before.
 
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Discussion Starter #54
I use Partzilla as the only OEM part site, if you call and make the order they have military discount also.

I sent Les a PM to come to this thread, he is great with the parts to repair stuff like what you need ( he works in a parts house as the warehouse mgr.)
Okay so I got all new everything rubber o-rings the intake joints hoses everything... I installed them everything look beautiful then I did the carb sync test and took a video...
I use Partzilla as the only OEM part site, if you call and make the order they have military discount also.

I sent Les a PM to come to this thread, he is great with the parts to repair stuff like what you need ( he works in a parts house as the warehouse mgr.)
Got all new parts below the carb even got some new ones above installed them everything look great felt great... Proceeded to do the carb sync test... I took a video and for some reason I can't upload it... But basically one gauge is moving like it's supposed to and the other one isn't it moved but isn't reactive to throttle! Please ask me questions so I can explain better! Again thank you guys so much for your help!!
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I use Partzilla as the only OEM part site, if you call and make the order they have military discount also.

I sent Les a PM to come to this thread, he is great with the parts to repair stuff like what you need ( he works in a parts house as the warehouse mgr.)
Ok I got it saved as a link this is the video I took of the carb sync test
 

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There are a number of 650 sync videos on you tube that should be helpful and explain the technique. You should have snubber valves on the vacuum line to each carb to settle the gauges down to read and adjust.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Okay so I got all new everything rubber o-rings the intake joints hoses everything... I installed them everything look beautiful then I did the carb sync test and took a video...

Got all new parts below the carb even got some new ones above installed them everything look great felt great... Proceeded to do the carb sync test... I took a video and for some reason I can't upload it... But basically one gauge is moving like it's supposed to and the other one isn't it moved but isn't reactive to throttle! Please ask me questions so I can explain better! Again thank you guys so much for your help!!
Well.... It did work great for a bit then same problem again I looked and saw that the rubber boot not sure what it is called that is in between the air box and the carb The boot keeps slipping off the top of the carb which is causing that major bogging I hope! Just a little confused because I thought it was unmetered air that I was worried about and above the carb is all unmetered air I thought it gets metered through the carb, no? So if that does slip off shouldn't that not cause the bogging and stalling?!
 

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Well.... It did work great for a bit then same problem again I looked and saw that the rubber boot not sure what it is called that is in between the air box and the carb The boot keeps slipping off the top of the carb which is causing that major bogging I hope! Just a little confused because I thought it was unmetered air that I was worried about and above the carb is all unmetered air I thought it gets metered through the carb, no? So if that does slip off shouldn't that not cause the bogging and stalling?!
Rob- one of my early suggestions was to check the intake boots as I had the same problem.
What you are describing sounds very much like what I experienced when an inlet box boot wasnt seated and seriously unbalanced the carbs.

Also, see post #20. Hope it fixes your problem
 

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Discussion Starter #60 (Edited by Moderator)
Rob- one of my early suggestions was to check the intake boots as I had the same problem.
What you are describing sounds very much like what I experienced when an inlet box boot wasnt seated and seriously unbalanced the carbs.

Also, see post #20. Hope it fixes your problem
Copy that sorry like I said I didn't know the names of them I thought you were talking about the ones below the carb after rereading I see how I messed that up lol... Still I learned alot since that post so I still very much appreciate all the info and help!!! I'll be buying new boots 'er whatever there called and installing them hopefully it will be a better fit!!🤞does that happen often that they wear out and just sip off?
 
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