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Some say you should not put anything but genuine Yamaha oil into your Yamaha. Others say a good synthetic will be fine. How about Shell 5W x 30 Fully synthetic for my 2002 Vstar?
 

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yamaha does not own any oil wells, so there is no genuine Yamaha oil anything, they are (were) selling someone else's oil in their own bottles

if you dont have the owners manual for your bike you can download it for free from the yamaha website (google you bike model and "owners manual" )

the recommended oil weights for a range of temperatures will be in the specfiication section. Most of the Vstar bikes take either 10W30 or 20W40, the latter for hot climates.

Any oil that meets the specs listed in the manual will run your engine for 100k miles with scheduled changes and filters. Using a synthetic oil will push it past that.

At my age I expect both my bikes will still have a long way to go after Im long gone - I only ride about 5000 miles a year... I will be pretty old by the time either bike rolls over 100,000 miles
 

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I used Rotella T6 in my VTX 1300, 128,XXX miles.
The engine died, but not related to an oil problem.

Keep in mind, as KCW said, Yamaha, Honda, Harley, etc, don't own oil wells.
They specify what they want in their oil, and the lowest bidder gets the contract.
 

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Quote from Bob the Oil Guy:

"Citgo has the contract for YAMALUBE"
 

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All the manufactures bid out there labeled oil to the lowest bidder, if you want top of the line oil then you need to look at Redline, Mobil One, Motul and maybe Royal Purple for motorcycle oil.

Royal Purple is not the old Royal Purple as they were purchased some time ago and they started making most of their oils with group III conventional oils and labeling them as full synthetic oil.

You can thank the National Advertising Division (NAD) of the Council of Better Business Bureaus for that as Mobil filed a complaint some years ago against Castrol for doing that and NAD ruled that it was perfectly fine and now we have group III conventional oils being sold as full synthetic oil.

Funny thing is in Germany they can't do that, you have to have group IV PAO or group V Ester to label your oil as a full synthetic, they don't allow the group III to be labeled as synthetic.
 

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Ive switched both my bikes over to Mobile One 10W40

they both seem quieter, shift easier (less clutch drag when shifting?!) and run smoother - but that could just be the normal change from expired oil to fresh oil.
 

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I started out racing Yamaha YZ's in 1970 and rode trials starting in 1972, I have always used Castrol oil in every bike I have ever owned. This includes Harleys, Yamahas,Hondas and Kawasakis. It has done me good for almost 50 yrs and 16 different bikes.
 

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From an engineering perspective using words like easier, smoother, quieter... are weasel words in any technical spec.

I understand the placebo effect, you pay twice as much for anything and you expect it to be better

but how do you measure things like "better, easier to shift, quieter.." without instrumenting the hell out of your motorcycle and measuring force on the shift level, sound level (SPL) at your helmet, vibration in the engine...

It can be done, but sometimes you just go with your subjective observations. Im running Mobile One in both my bikes now and to me they are running "better". Thats good enough for me.

There is one definite difference I have noticed on both - they use to make a whirling / sliding noise which I can hardly hear now with the synthetic oil. If I had to guess what it was, maybe the rings sliding on the cylinder walls, or the cam riding on the tappets? Some metal to metal contact like that which is not a pressurized oil bearing / float interface.

A motorcycle engine is a noisy beast by design.
 

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i once switched to Castrol after repairing my clutch because i didn't want to wait for another shipment of Amsoil to come in. about 3 or 4 months later my clutch starts slipping again. replaced the Castrol with Amsoil 10W40 and then able to go full year/10,000 miles without any slippage. that's all the technical spec i need.
 
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