[Stratoliner07]

Time to change my oil what oil you guys using that you recommend?

 

[Mrdub]

I use Rotella T4 15W40.. Got that recommendation from a friend on a Royal Star.. a lot of others use it too . No issues with the wet clutch either. Easily accessible form Wally Mart and your local Auto parts supplier. Walmart is $15 for 1 gallon in the USA. I'm in Canada.

Here's another thread on here about it.
http://www.starbikeforums.com/forums/20-oil-lubrication/110642-oil-types-preferences.html?highlight=oil

 

[lesblank]

Here is a link to a recent discussion of oil type. As you can tell almost every one has a different opinion. I suggest to follow the manual, Yamaha engineers are much smarter than me.

http://www.starbikeforums.com/forums/20-oil-lubrication/110642-oil-types-preferences.html

 

[TimBucTwo]

Yamaha 20w-40 is harder to get and a bit pricey. Yamaha themselves I believe have switched their recommendation from 20w-40 to 20w-50.

Shell Rotella is a diesel type oil that can take the pressures, between gear teeth, that are present in bikes that share engine and trany oil. I use it in my Honda. I also us it in my Stratoliner. However I do use Rotella T4 15W-40 instead of a 20w because I don't ride at freezing temps.

Asking what oil is best is like asking what tire is best. Ten different members will have 10 different choices.

With that said, many motorcyclist are in fact using the Shell Rotella in either T4 or T6(Full Synthetic). I wouldn't use the T6 in the 'liner because of the cold weight of 5w. Rotella-T4 is usually available at any auto parts store.

Next question; What oil filter is best?
Some will say the K&N isn't the best but I buy the one with the nut on the end for easy removal. I change oil more often than others so my oil choice and filter is driven by that.

 

[Scrumdown]

Recommendation ... Fresh clean oil and a new filter.



:grin::nerd::grin:

 

[patrickdk]

I'm not sure where k&n stacks up, but I think it was midweight, not top, but good enough atleast.
fram and all the variations of it are the worst, you can find good fram filters, but they can get hard to find, and be sure of.
I'm using k&n on my cars and bikes due to the nut end myself
I do change my filter with every oil change on my cars and bikes. I will skip sometimes, but I find it's harder to track what oil changes I changed the filter vs not, and just do both, unless something comes up and I cannot do it.

I'm currently running 7100 10w-50 in my 950, down to 15f to 85f so far temps it has been in. Now that I'm in florida, I'll probably change it up, as I don't need to run <30f anymore, probably more like <40f

 

[pauli466]

Time to change my oil what oil you guys using that you recommend?

does price matter?

 

[MajorSpittle]

I use Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 Full Synthetic

I have only used Mobil 1 Full Synthetic in all my vehicles the past 15ish years. I have only changed oil in my vehicles once a year regardless of miles in all that time. Never had engine issues or oil consumption in 5 different vehicles. Currently have a MiniVan with over 250,000 miles on it, put 160,000 on a SUV, and I currently have a little Chevy HHR that has around 140,000 miles that back at about 80,000 miles I had a rock go through the radiator on a trip and dump out all the coolant. I had to drive it about 5 miles with no coolant. Ran it until it overheated 3 times to get me to a shop so it could get fixed. New radiator, oil change, and I was on my way. Damn thing has never given me an issue or used oil even with that abuse. I thought for sure it was toast and didn't trust the car for the first 3K miles after that. It shocked me that never even started making noise or using oil. Those little chevy ecotech engines are damn good and I am a firm believer in a good full synthetic oil after that.

 

[KCW]

I think MajorSpittle has hit the square snail in the head.

If you are going to ride your bike under normal conditions, then following the oil requirements in the owners manual (20W40 for summer weather) is all you need to do. The cheapest generic 20W40 at walmart meets all the requirements, as long as the bottom half of the API lollypop symbol is clear (no resource conserving, enhanced additives for mileage or wear). You dont need to buy "motorcycle oil". Motorcycle oil is regular car/truck oil without the extra additives. They are charging you more for what they are leaving out. You can follow the 4000 mile oil change and 8000 mile filter change schedule in the owners manual and sleep well at night.

But if you are going to race the bike, ride it WFO for hours at a time at 85+mph, be in stop and go traffic where the engine will overheat, then having a higher grade or synthetic oil will make a difference.

I have to ping you for this " I had to drive it about 5 miles with no coolant." I have purchased several cars over the years with blown engines, for a couple hundred dollars, because the oil or temperature light came on and the owner did not immediately pull over and stop. With no oil pressure the bearings go metal to metal within seconds, and overheating will warp your heads and blow out the head gaskets. "had to drive" is very subjective. The price and inconvenience of calling a tow truck is cheap compared to calling a tow truck 5 miles down the road and replacing an engine. You dodged a bullet. I dont want to pick on you, but that is not something that anyone should try to duplicate.

If you want to put dollar signs on it, you can buy generic oil and change the oil every 2000 miles and the filter every 8000 miles, for less money than using synthetic oil for 4000 miles. The synthetic oil will still cost you more than twice as much.

 

[Scrumdown]

KCW ... I ride 33 miles each way to work. Combo of city & highway.
I was thinking putting in Rotella T6 5W-40 & new filter.
Temps are average 85+ from June on with high humidity.
What would you recommend on mileage for change?
Filter recommended?

 

[KCW]

I change my oil at 4000 miles and the filter at 8000 miles.

Keep in mind the requirements for oil and filter are different, the oil breaks down, the filter captures particles. Putting new oil in with a filter that has 4000 miles on it, does not mean the filter will suddenly let all of the trapped particles blow thru. The few ounces of oil still in the filter is nothing compared to the 3 quarts you are changing, and the oil that is still adhering to all the surfaces inside the engine and transmission.

I think I have been buying Fram filters from bikebandit. Whenever I buy something from them that is over $100 (free shipping) I get whatever else I might need for the next few years: plugs, filters... and always have them on hand.

Should point out, of the 26,000 miles I have put on my bike about 1000 miles was at 65mph or higher.

I ride mostly secondary roads, and hardly ever ride over 60mph.

 

[Scrumdown]

Should point out, of the 26,000 miles I have put on my bike about 1000 miles was at 65mph or higher.

I ride mostly secondary roads, and hardly ever ride over 60mph.

See a lot of my is 60 +. And my brain is thinking (I know scary) that with a synthetic oil I should be good w/ every 5k plus filter. (I replace filter at the same time as the oil. Because.)

 

[doubleot]

See a lot of my is 60 +. And my brain is thinking (I know scary) that with a synthetic oil I should be good w/ every 5k plus filter. (I replace filter at the same time as the oil. Because.)

This is my mentality as well.

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