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Discussion Starter #1
What brand of motor oil you use and why?
Conventional or synthetic?
Any performance or cleanliness differences?
Lets hear it!
 

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I use synthetic rated for motorcycles. I change my oil every 5k miles just like I do with my cage. Sad thing is when I drain the oil from the bike is looks cleaner that what I drain from the cage. My tech keeps telling me to save that oil for him to use in his bike.
 

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Rotella T6 full synthetic 5W-40 in the V-Star. It's rated for wet clutches, has good cold weather viscosity and synthetic is more heat and wear tolerant than petrol-based.
 

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I use quicksilver 20w-50 Motorcycle oil with good results. Only $29 a gal at Wally world.
 

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i think i'm going try amsoil 20/40 yamaha recommends 20/40 in the 650. yamaha stopped making it and amsoil is the only brand i could find that has a 20/40
 

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I use Rotella T4 15w40 for diesels. Easy to get and inexpensive. Recommended from a friend that has a Roadstar that has 130,000km on it and he has had the bike since new. No issues.

Tried Motul 20w40 synthetic..didn't like it...very expensive.. clutch was different..stiffer .. engine was louder.

I've got 10,000 miles on it with Rotella no oil related issues.
 

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I've wondered about this brand saw it a month or so ago.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
I have about 7,000 total miles with it and no issues. I know that isn't much but that's all I can tell you.
 

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I have about 7,000 total miles with it and no issues. I know that isn't much but that's all I can tell you.
I usually put about that much on my bike a summer since we have all kinds of weather in Utah. I think I'm going to give it a shot. What weight did you use?

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What weight did you use?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

20W50 full synthetic. I believe that is the only weight they make specifically for bikes.
 

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i've been using Amsoil for the past several years. 1yr/10K miles between oil changes, and independent testing shows it has higher viscosity and other scientific stuff than other brands. even when i reach the end of my oil cycle there is no degradation in clutch performance. i once used Castrol a while back when i changed out my clutch plates because i didn't want to wait for an order of amsoil to come in. after about 3,000 miles there began to be considerable clutch slippage. switched back to Amsoil and no issues ever since.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
20 50 seems a little thick.
amsoil makes a 20/40 also exactly what the manual recommends for the 650 in the warmer months
Yeah the thing I hate about amsoil is finding someone who sells it and when you do, you have to wait. It is good oil and do like it though.
I have just been using 10/40 valvoline full synthetic motorcycle oil.
Little over 6 bucks a quart. Not sure if its worth the money for frequent changes.
 

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This explains the viscosity ....

How is viscosity rated? The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) developed a scale for both engine (motor oil grades) and transmission oils.

What are motor oil viscosity ratings?

Viscosity is notated with the common "XW-XX." The number preceding the "W" rates the oil's flow at 0 degrees Fahrenheit (-17.8 degrees Celsius). The "W" stands for winter, not weight as many people think. The lower the number here, the less it thickens in the cold. So 5W-30 viscosity engine oil thickens less in the cold than a 10W-30, but more than a 0W-30. An engine in a colder climate, where motor oil tends to thicken because of lower temperatures, would benefit from 0W or 5W viscosity. A car in Death Valley would need a higher number to keep the oil from thinning out too much.

The second number after the "W" indicates the oil's viscosity measured at 212 degrees Fahrenheit (100 degrees Celsius). This number represents the oil's resistance to thinning at high temperatures. For example, 10W-30 oil will thin out at higher temperatures faster than 10W-40 will.

Monograde oils such as SAE 30, 40 or 50 are no longer used in latest automotive engines, but may be required for use in some vintage and antique engines. Straight SAE 30 oil is often specified for small air-cooled engines in lawnmowers, garden tractors, portable generators and gas-powered chain saws.
Some more of grades, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Thing is, my 2002 vstar 650 does not spec for 50 weight. 40 is the max and probably for good reason.
You go too thick and actually slows the rotation of components inside the engine.
 

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↑ what slug said.

The engineers at Yamaha have proven they are excellent mechanical designers. I will follow their recommendations until a better engineer with a better track record tells me otherwise, with a dam good explanation to go with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Well I did an oil change and used 10/40
I could not find the valvoline 4t full synthetic so I went with the quick silver full synthetic motorcycle oil.
I had about almost 2500 miles on it and probably know why Yamaha recommends 3k. I drained out the valvoline 4t out and was dark. Not amber or black but very dark. It smelled bad too. Obviously fuel dilution.
I changed the final drive fluid and it looked like new, just stinky. Just an fyi.
 

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Yeah the thing I hate about amsoil is finding someone who sells it and when you do, you have to wait. It is good oil and do like it though.
I have just been using 10/40 valvoline full synthetic motorcycle oil.
i think it's absolutely ridiculous that you can't purchase this Amsoil directly, either in person or online. it would be easier to just be able to go to a store and pick it off the shelf, but it's a small price to pay to have a 2 minute phone call and have it shipped to you within a couple days and to get a superior oil that allows me to only have to change it out once a year. And I always tell him i'm with this forum and i'm pretty sure he's been giving me a discount that was once offered here to forum members, but those threads were erased when his sponsorship ended.

1-877-356-6099
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
http://www.amsoil.lube-direct.com/2013/11/bobistheoilguy-review/
 
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