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so what is it about Amsoil that makes it better than any other name brand petro oil or synthetic oil?

Is it made from the oil of baby seals? Made from the wings of butterflys?

The little bit I have looked into this, synthetic oil is made from crude oil, using a different process with other materials in the formula.

What is Amsoil doing that no one else can do?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Rural King not far from me has 10w-40 Amsoil motorcycle oil on their shelves inside the store.
We have a gas station that has some of the amsoil product on the shelf but is usually just car oil and diesel additives. I just bought quicksilver motorcycle oil and will see if there is any difference between the valvoline full syn i was running.
 

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so what is it about Amsoil that makes it better than any other name brand petro oil or synthetic oil?

Is it made from the oil of baby seals? Made from the wings of butterflys?

The little bit I have looked into this, synthetic oil is made from crude oil, using a different process with other materials in the formula.

What is Amsoil doing that no one else can do?
AMSOIL vs Mobil 1 - Reno Synthetics
the site claims that testing was done in an independent laboratory.

https://www.amsoil.com/performancetests.aspx

AMSOIL Leads Others in Industry-Standard Testing - Engine Builder Magazine
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
I rode about 60 miles with the quicksilver 10 40 and seemed to perform well.
Maybe because its fresh oil but shifting did not seem as clunky compared to the valvoline 4t. Clutch seemed to operate smooth also. Maybe placebo effect? Can't say. It is good oil though. I will see as miles progress.
 

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i think it's absolutely ridiculous that you can't purchase this Amsoil directly, either in person or online. it would be easier to just be able to go to a store and pick it off the shelf, but it's a small price to pay to have a 2 minute phone call and have it shipped to you within a couple days and to get a superior oil that allows me to only have to change it out once a year. And I always tell him i'm with this forum and i'm pretty sure he's been giving me a discount that was once offered here to forum members, but those threads were erased when his sponsorship ended.

1-877-356-6099
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
Professional Review of Bobistheoilguy.com (BITOG)

just made my 7th annual call (i'm a couple months behind this year) to Bob. the oil guy. i didn't time the call, but it was right about 2 minutes total. sitting in my chair. in my boxers. easy peazy. refried beansy.
 

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just made my 7th annual call (i'm a couple months behind this year) to Bob. the oil guy. i didn't time the call, but it was right about 2 minutes total. sitting in my chair. in my boxers. easy peazy. refried beansy.
What was the cost per quart or case if you dont mind sharing

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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i forgot to even ask. last year it was $61.87 for 4 quarts plus filter. that must also be with free shipping as well because that total is about $10 less than if you price out 4 quarts plus filter on their website which comes out to over $70. the website quotes $13.50/qt and $17 for the filter. so i'd say i'm being charged between $11-$12 a quart. it wasn't priced out individually on my previous receipt.
 

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Amsoil makes good oil if you use their full synthetic oil because they use a group IV PAO base stock instead of group III conventional base stock.

groups I, II, and III are all conventional oil with group three being the most refined meaning they remove the most impurities from it over group I and II.

The oils molecules are still conventional oil meaning they are different sizes and shapes example.

00oOOOoooqqqqqQQ

The smaller molecules in conventional oil get used up faster than large molecules.

In a true synthetic oil the molecules are made in a lab so every molecule is the same example.

OOOOOOOOOOOOOO

Now seeing the difference in the molecules lets you understand better why a synthetic oil can protect better and lubricate better then a conventional oil, i.e. you don't feel the shifter get harder to shift as the oil gets miles on it.

With a synthetic oil having every molecule the same size they share the work load on a bearing surface or gear surface better than a conventional oil does. With the conventional oil the larger molecules are doing more of the work load but the smaller molecules are being used up so over time you have fewer molecules to do the job in a conventional oil vs a true synthetic oil.

What is a true synthetic oil, they are the group IV PAO oils with all other synthetics that are not in group IV PAO group placed into the group V category which will include ester based oils like Redline oil.

Both group IV and group V are man made with every molecule being the same as the others.

Group V synthetics have one advantage over pure group IV synthetics and that is a group V ester based synthetic carries a positive charge like a magnet so it clings to metal surfaces. That is why a lot of group IV PAO synthetics will add some group V ester to their formula. Group V oils will add some group IV PAO to their formulas because a pure ester group V can cause seal shrinkage resulting in oil leaks, by adding some group IV PAO which can cause seal swelling takes care of that issue so you won't get an oil leak.

I personally for me like Redline group V oils for my cars and motorcycles.

Here is a little known fact about semi-synthetic oils, by law a semi synthetic oil can not contain more than 30% synthetic oil in it. That means that 70% of a semi synthetic oil will be conventional oil, but it could also mean 99% could be conventional oil as there is no set standard for how much synthetic has to be in the semi-synthetic oil other than it can't be more than 30% synthetic.

Now group three conventional oils are also called hydro cracked and due to a ruling made by the NAD (National Advertising Division) said that Castrol could call their group III oils full synthetic when Mobil challenged Castrol.

No matter what NAD ruled group III oils are still truly nothing but a more refined conventional oil with different size molecules. Sadly the API followed the NAD ruling and call group III oils full synthetics.

Interesting note on this is that in Germany only a true group IV or group V oil can be labeled as a full synthetic, group III oils can not be labeled as synthetic oils well because they are not synthetic oils. NAD and the API have done a huge disservice to the American public by allowing oil companies to falsely label group III oils as full synthetics.

If you want a true full synthetic oil purchase only oils made from group IV and or group V base stocks.
 

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American, Thanks for the info posting. Very informative and understandable.
There is a new class of oil being called group III+, it is from Shell/Pennzoil (Shell owns Pennzoil) group III+ is "Gas To Liquid" process also called "GTL", this process creates an oil that is very close to PAO synthetics, but it is very hard to find much information on it because Shell developed it and hold the patents on the process. So all the Shell synthetic oils and Pennzoil synthetic oils are this new group III+ "Gas To Liquid" process.
 

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No matter what NAD ruled group III oils are still truly nothing but a more refined conventional oil with different size molecules. Sadly the API followed the NAD ruling and call group III oils full synthetics.

Interesting note on this is that in Germany only a true group IV or group V oil can be labeled as a full synthetic, group III oils can not be labeled as synthetic oils well because they are not synthetic oils. NAD and the API have done a huge disservice to the American public by allowing oil companies to falsely label group III oils as full synthetics.

If you want a true full synthetic oil purchase only oils made from group IV and or group V base stocks.
I thought it was only in the US that group III oils could be called synthetic? I do know that Mobil 1, Amsoil and I think Royal Purple are true synthetics. How do you know which group an oil is processed from?
 

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Hi all... here's what I do for my oil these days...
Mobil V-Twin has enough zddp for our bikes but is twice the price as Mobil 15w/50. I can add 1 oz of Zddplus to 15w/50 and bring the z and p up to approx p1700 / z1900 (ppm in 4 quarts) which is actually slightly higher than mobil 1 V-twin oil z&p. Then I prefer to drop the viscosity a smidge with 15% 30w. 40w is what I'm shooting for but I don't start with Mobil 40w because it has a lower zinc and phosphorous amount than the 15w/50. Adding a little Marvel Mystery Oil is just another preference I do because I like the stuff and it's been around forever. I am doubled up on stock clutch springs because prior to that I had clutch slippage with the stock spring regardless of oil type I used (V-twin oil included).

3.2 qt 15w/50 Mobil 1, .7 qt 30w Castrol Magnatec
1 oz Zddplus
4 oz MMO
HF303 Racing Filter

https://www.amazon.com/Hiflofiltro-HF303RC-Racing-Oil-Filter/dp/B00FJFD6K2/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1544319307&sr=1-1&keywords=hf303rc

https://www.amazon.com/ZDDPPlus-Engine-Additive-Phosphorus-Bottles/dp/B006LB70SW/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1544316173&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=zddplus&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/d/Engine-Oil-Additives/Marvel-MM12R-Mystery-Oil-Pack/B0725JQXKS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1544316299&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=marvel+mystery+oil&psc=1
 

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Very well know for industrial lubrication products, heavy equipment and deisel. At least that's how I know the brand.
 

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^ Les, You said before you use Mobil 1 for your motorcycles

just the regular Mobil 1 in the correct weight for your bike, or do you get the Mobil 1 designated for motorcycles?

Im sure they are not the same price.
Im not sure they are the same oil in different bottles.
 

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I use the Mobile 1 Motorcycle V-twin 20-50 oil. In my opinion it holds up VERY well in the Texas heat. Never had to add any oil between oil changes. I'm bad about stretching my oil changes close to the 5k mark. I alway have the oil and filter to change but slow to do it. I've got a magnetic plug and never had anything to worry about on it. I got my 1100 after it's first oil change and used mobile 1 on every change except one. I used the Valoline motorcycle synthetic 20-50 once. The tappets made a little more noise so when back to mobile 1. Had 65k trouble free miles on bike. This one:
 

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I just put in Lucas synthetic 20w/50 oil for motorcycles.
I put a little 5k on the oil I used, Shell Rotella*T6 Full Synthetic engine oil. I felt I was hearing more "engine noice" the last 1000 miles or so. Not liking the way it was shifting towards the end. Maybe change sooner?
I've put close to 700 miles. I like the way it runs. No "engine noices". Shifts wonderfully. I will post my opinion after the next 5k miles.

Ride Smart! Ride Often!
 

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looking around a bit, Mobil one does not appear to be offered in 20W40, which is what the VS650 and Royal Star owners manual call for during summer temps

10W40 in Mobil 1 intended for cars...

manual recommends 10W30 only for colder temps

I may have to get another full synthetic oil for Ursa. Not worried so much about the 650.

Rotella comes in a 15W40, but its intended for diesel engines.

the Royal Star V4 engine is noted for having a clutch whirl, kinda between a chirp and a purring sound. Would be interesting to see if synthetic oil changes it.
 
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