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One advantage of using full synthetic oil is that you only need to be concerned about mileage.
When using natural oils, vehicle mfg. would say change your oil at 3000 miles OR 3 months.
The reason: natural oils quickly attract bacteria and bacteria will start breaking down the oils regardless of mileage.
Synthetic oils do not attract bacteria like natural oils so now mfg usually just list mileage for oil change intervals.
 

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Castrol makes a semi- Syn. "Activo" and a full Syn. "Power 1" for MC Both are JASO M-2 and API SL. Their "GO!" is also JASO M-2, but API SG. Other than to tout additives, the label reads nothing about synthetics, so I can assume that the GO! is a dino...?

Has anyone tried Castrol? It's reasonably priced by the gallons online....and it's available for similar pricing at my local auto-parts store.

I do wish Rotilla (T6) would re-apply their JASO rating....my Road Star was smooth as silk on that. Feeling the heat that comes off the new Venture, I can't imagine a 50 flows any less efficiently than a 40 in that engine, but I won't mind being corrected...
 

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2010 Vstar 950. Candy Red.
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i've been using Amsoil for the past several years. 1yr/10K miles between oil changes, and independent testing shows it has higher viscosity and other scientific stuff than other brands. even when i reach the end of my oil cycle there is no degradation in clutch performance. i once used Castrol a while back when i changed out my clutch plates because i didn't want to wait for an order of amsoil to come in. after about 3,000 miles there began to be considerable clutch slippage. switched back to Amsoil and no issues ever since.
You're riding in the same temperatures I am. I think I'm going to give amsoil a try next time. My oil changes seem to indicate I could go considerably further than 5k between changes but don't want to with the non-synthetics I normally use.

BTW, K&N kn-204 filter, and between the 650 and 950 I've used valvoline, yamalube, castrol gtx. 10w-40 conventional. No noticeable differences.

Not that it matters, but just curious: I wonder if amsoil oil additive is part of the formula in their motor oil? I've considered trying their oil additive in the cars and bike.
 

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One advantage of using full synthetic oil is that you only need to be concerned about mileage.
When using natural oils, vehicle mfg. would say change your oil at 3000 miles OR 3 months.
The reason: natural oils quickly attract bacteria and bacteria will start breaking down the oils regardless of mileage.
Synthetic oils do not attract bacteria like natural oils so now mfg usually just list mileage for oil change intervals.
Authentic Poser, this was great information. I did not know about the bacteria factor in natural oils.
 

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Castrol makes a semi- Syn. "Activo" and a full Syn. "Power 1" for MC Both are JASO M-2 and API SL. Their "GO!" is also JASO M-2, but API SG. Other than to tout additives, the label reads nothing about synthetics, so I can assume that the GO! is a dino...?

Has anyone tried Castrol? It's reasonably priced by the gallons online....and it's available for similar pricing at my local auto-parts store.

I do wish Rotilla (T6) would re-apply their JASO rating....my Road Star was smooth as silk on that. Feeling the heat that comes off the new Venture, I can't imagine a 50 flows any less efficiently than a 40 in that engine, but I won't mind being corrected...
I don't trust anything from Castrol simply because they are the company that started bottling group III conventional oil and labeling it full synthetic. When Mobil went to the National Advertising Division (NAD) and filed a complaint NAD sided with Castrol and said it was perfectly fine to label group III conventional oil as full synthetic oil, Mobil argued that full synthetic oil is produced in a lab and explained the difference between a full true group IV PAO/group V Ester oil, NAD said that hydro cracking conventional oil was good enough to label it full synthetic.

The truth is when you buy a group III hydro cracked oil the molecules are still different sizes and shapes and will break down while a true full synthetic group IV PAO and group V Ester every molecule is identical and resists breaking down for a far longer period of time. Another big advantage of group V Ester synthetic oil is it is a positive charge so it clings to metal parts providing superior lubrication.

Castrol will never see the inside of any of my combustion engines.
 

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Amsoil makes good oil if you use their full synthetic oil because they use a group IV PAO base stock instead of group III conventional base stock.

groups I, II, and III are all conventional oil with group three being the most refined meaning they remove the most impurities from it over group I and II.

The oils molecules are still conventional oil meaning they are different sizes and shapes example.

00oOOOoooqqqqqQQ

The smaller molecules in conventional oil get used up faster than large molecules.

In a true synthetic oil the molecules are made in a lab so every molecule is the same example.

OOOOOOOOOOOOOO

Now seeing the difference in the molecules lets you understand better why a synthetic oil can protect better and lubricate better then a conventional oil, i.e. you don't feel the shifter get harder to shift as the oil gets miles on it.

With a synthetic oil having every molecule the same size they share the work load on a bearing surface or gear surface better than a conventional oil does. With the conventional oil the larger molecules are doing more of the work load but the smaller molecules are being used up so over time you have fewer molecules to do the job in a conventional oil vs a true synthetic oil.

What is a true synthetic oil, they are the group IV PAO oils with all other synthetics that are not in group IV PAO group placed into the group V category which will include ester based oils like Redline oil.

Both group IV and group V are man made with every molecule being the same as the others.

Group V synthetics have one advantage over pure group IV synthetics and that is a group V ester based synthetic carries a positive charge like a magnet so it clings to metal surfaces. That is why a lot of group IV PAO synthetics will add some group V ester to their formula. Group V oils will add some group IV PAO to their formulas because a pure ester group V can cause seal shrinkage resulting in oil leaks, by adding some group IV PAO which can cause seal swelling takes care of that issue so you won't get an oil leak.

I personally for me like Redline group V oils for my cars and motorcycles.

Here is a little known fact about semi-synthetic oils, by law a semi synthetic oil can not contain more than 30% synthetic oil in it. That means that 70% of a semi synthetic oil will be conventional oil, but it could also mean 99% could be conventional oil as there is no set standard for how much synthetic has to be in the semi-synthetic oil other than it can't be more than 30% synthetic.

Now group three conventional oils are also called hydro cracked and due to a ruling made by the NAD (National Advertising Division) said that Castrol could call their group III oils full synthetic when Mobil challenged Castrol.

No matter what NAD ruled group III oils are still truly nothing but a more refined conventional oil with different size molecules. Sadly the API followed the NAD ruling and call group III oils full synthetics.

Interesting note on this is that in Germany only a true group IV or group V oil can be labeled as a full synthetic, group III oils can not be labeled as synthetic oils well because they are not synthetic oils. NAD and the API have done a huge disservice to the American public by allowing oil companies to falsely label group III oils as full synthetics.

If you want a true full synthetic oil purchase only oils made from group IV and or group V base stocks.
Is that what t4 t5 t6 is?
 

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Is that what t4 t5 t6 is?
I think, “no...they are not in the same boat as Castrol” The T4, 5 and 6 are Shell oils designed for Diesel engines. T4 is conventional, 5 is a semi and 6 is a full synthetic. MY understanding may be flawed> Occasionally/frequently?, Shell "provides" some of their oil for the JASO rating. Apparently, it is an expensive process and they do not always do it. When the the T6 has a JASO rating, I have used it for mid to late season oil changes on my older, large VTwins. I have not used it on the 750 nor did I on my Fj1200. My dealer has said, “...as long as it has the JASO rating, (is not mfg’d with the anti-friction additives?), it’s not an issue. I have 35K+ on both an ‘04 Road Star and an ‘02 Warrior - no issues. I’ll not use it in my ’18 SVTC until the warranty expires...and again, only if it has the JASO rating. You’ll find the product at T.S. ....and Wallyworld, which can be fun experience, depending on your location...;-)
 

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I think, “no...they are not in the same boat as Castrol” The T4, 5 and 6 are Shell oils designed for Diesel engines. T4 is conventional, 5 is a semi and 6 is a full synthetic. MY understanding may be flawed> Occasionally/frequently?, Shell "provides" some of their oil for the JASO rating. Apparently, it is an expensive process and they do not always do it. When the the T6 has a JASO rating, I have used it for mid to late season oil changes on my older, large VTwins. I have not used it on the 750 nor did I on my Fj1200. My dealer has said, “...as long as it has the JASO rating, (is not mfg’d with the anti-friction additives?), it’s not an issue. I have 35K+ on both an ‘04 Road Star and an ‘02 Warrior - no issues. I’ll not use it in my ’18 SVTC until the warranty expires...and again, only if it has the JASO rating. You’ll find the product at T.S. ....and Wallyworld, which can be fun experience, depending on your location...;-)
I believe you are flawed. If I remember correctly the only real synthetic oils are sold by Mobile, Amsoil and I believe Royal Purple. All others are not true synthetic.

Sent from my motorola one 5G ace using Tapatalk
 

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I believe you are flawed. If I remember correctly the only real synthetic oils are sold by Mobile, Amsoil and I believe Royal Purple. All others are not true synthetic.

Sent from my motorola one 5G ace using Tapatalk
You’re right...after opening a couple searches, I remembered why I’ve been buying the same brands and types (esp. JASO) recommended here (and by my shop) for our bikes. I should have just said, “...if it says JASO on the label, I think you’ll be fine, for a Yamaha...” Judging from my post here, from 2019, it seems like this topic presents a “challenging” pattern for me...:confused:
 
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