Check voltage regulator. A quick check, pull the voltage regulator and look at the back . If it looks gray to white or has burnt spots on the back it's probably bad. It should be gloss to dark black.They have a tendency to start showing up after they get hot. This is a known problem on the 1100.

 

might be the tank vent the next time it happens loosen the cap, if you hear a whoosh of air thats it.

 

Not sure. If it's a fuel problem because it started with one plug wire unhooked, not the other, one pipe was hot, not the other. So I think it's a fire problem.

 

i just thought if fuel was being closed off you would loose one cylinder at a time. and its common and a easy fix.

 

Since heat gennerally isn't an issue that affects fuel to jus one cylinder,..I probably rule that out.
From details above, I might highly suspect an electrical issue with heat as a cause.
Nice to see someone actually looking for a failure and cause, instead of random replacements of suspected or assumed failures.


As many may have noticed, many critical componants aren't exactly mounted to facilitate good air circulation and cooling,... i.e. ignition module, coils, ect.
The relationship of coils and ignition module in the stock setup are kinda critical. A coil of low ohm specs will cause much heat in stock systems,... and heat can be damaging.


I've had coils fail upon upon heat, fine at first,..
then dead till cooled again. A difficult matter to detect.
If plug wires (or ANY wiring) or connections are of poor condition,... the same can occur under conditions of heat.
Although rare, electronic componants can also intermitantly or temporarily fail with heat.

While not always easy, interchanging componants to duplicate failure in opposing cylinder can help pinpoint specific points of failure,... such as switching plugs, coils, wires between cylinders to determine a specific failed componant.
This is easy with sparkplugs (and I HAVE found failed plugs in this manner), but not so easy when coils have differing plug wire lengths and other difficult issues.

So continue carefully in determining EXACT failure AND cause. No sense in repairing/replacing failed parts if cause still exists.

 

Since heat gennerally isn't an issue that affects fuel to jus one cylinder,..I probably rule that out.
From details above, I might highly suspect an electrical issue with heat as a cause.
Nice to see someone actually looking for a failure and cause, instead of random replacements of suspected or assumed failures.


As many may have noticed, many critical componants aren't exactly mounted to facilitate good air circulation and cooling,... i.e. ignition module, coils, ect.
The relationship of coils and ignition module in the stock setup are kinda critical. A coil of low ohm specs will cause much heat in stock systems,... and heat can be damaging.


I've had coils fail upon upon heat, fine at first,..
then dead till cooled again. A difficult matter to detect.
If plug wires (or ANY wiring) or connections are of poor condition,... the same can occur under conditions of heat.
Although rare, electronic componants can also intermitantly or temporarily fail with heat.

While not always easy, interchanging componants to duplicate failure in opposing cylinder can help pinpoint specific points of failure,... such as switching plugs, coils, wires between cylinders to determine a specific failed componant.
This is easy with sparkplugs (and I HAVE found failed plugs in this manner), but not so easy when coils have differing plug wire lengths and other difficult issues.

So continue carefully in determining EXACT failure AND cause. No sense in repairing/replacing failed parts if cause still exists.

But if you will go back over several years on the forum the 1100 has a heat problem from the location of the voltage regulator. It causes ignition problems, speedometers doing crazy things, burning up batteries or not charging.
Anything that can be classes as an electrical problem when the 1100 heats up the first place to check is the voltage regulator and if the are bad the back side of the regulator will show either burn spots or the sealing compound changing color from gloss / dark black to a gray or lighter.
This is something simple to check for people who don't really do a lot of mechanical repairs.

 

All the comments are excellent. Since only one cylinder check the coil using ohm meter according to specs. Compare the readings to each other too. CDI module doubtful since it's only one cyl. That voltage reg mentioned by one person is first check though. Good luck.

 

V-Star 1100 Wiki Knowledge Base - Charging System yes its under the pipe, i had a regulator diode fail, when it got hot it would not charge the battery and slowly go dead.i have a battery monitor with three lights green,yellow and red. after riding about 120 miles it would go from green to read so i knew i had a problem. usually when a regulator fails it either overcharges or undercharges. it regulates the voltage between 12.5 and 14 volts approx.

 

 

It just happened to me again today. It died, and then as quick as it died. I turned it back on and it started again, and away I went. So I didn't have a dead battery. ??? Weird