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i'm close to the 600 mile mark already, so i'm going to change oil in the morning. the filler plug is behind the pipe, on the primary chain. i can cut a hex wrench down to loosen the big filler plug but not sure if there is enough space to slip it out. anyone ever took the plug out without removing the exaust? the engine oil should be a piece of cake. i have decided to use 5w-40 rotella t syn., and 3000 mile oil changes.
 

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Transfer case oil

Bill,

Here is a link to the Liner wiki. Scroll down to the two posts under "How to" That deal with changing transfer case oil. The second one, Alternate methode, talks about using a Craftsman 3/8 ratchet that fits in the small space between the exhaust and the transfer case.

I think Yamaha does suggest removing the exhaust. You might support the exhaust and only take off the rear bolts. They talk about setting the kick stand on a 2X4 to get the bike level. Be sure you take steps it won't fall over when you turn the wrench. My jack is not level it slopes toward the exhaust side. That would work.

http://www.linerwiki.com/index.php?title=Main_Page

Dave
 

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Why 5-40 iso 20-50? :confused:

Eh, nevermind that question. Saw you other thread. It's 20-50 for me. Thin as water when I drained it last time, mostly due to it being HHOOTTTT as in air-cooled HOT HOT HOT make my truck oil feel luke warm mudda fuggin HOOOOOOOOTT! =)

T case was easy enough as I rotated the rear pipe 'out/away',,, 75w-90 synthetic
 

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what a job changing oil in this thing. next time i will make some special tools to make the job easier. i used the alternate method on wiki for the primary change. i had to hand pump it through the over flow hole. will have a better pump next time. no exaust removal neccessary. this time it took 3 hours. with some special made wrenches and a better pump i think i can get it down to an hour. i hate to think what a dealer gets for an oil change.
 

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Why 5-40 iso 20-50? :confused:
I understand your confusion, he talks about an oil change using 5w-40 but describes the steps for changing the transfer case gear lube?

I used one solid hour to change the gear oil and did it by removing the muffler. I will beat that time on the next change because I learned what I don't need to remove and/or loosen after doing the break in gear oil change at 600 miles.
 

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But changing the crankcase oil is done easiest by lifting the scoot 3+ inches off the ground and then set the front and rear wheels down on a double layer of 2 x 6's. By doing this you can use a normal sized 17mm box wrench.
 

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I understand your confusion, he talks about an oil change using 5w-40 but describes the steps for changing the transfer case gear lube?

Nah, why use 5-40 in the crankcase, but then I found he has another thread describing his decision. His bike, his choice.

I used one solid hour to change the gear oil and did it by removing the muffler. I will beat that time on the next change because I learned what I don't need to remove and/or loosen after doing the break in gear oil change at 600 miles.
I 'cheated' at my 600 mark t-case change,,, I was changing to a D + D and already had the OEM muff removed. Just had to loosen 1 clamp to rotate the rear pipe. Took longer to access / remove the drain / level check plugs than it did to do the rest of the job. I'll probably do the same method (remove and/or rotate pipe) next go round.
 

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I drained my chain case. then took out the level oil screw and used a oil pump can to fill it with transfer oil. Took some time but went in easier then trying to cut socket and getting it in. Only cause the piece I had that was already cut didn't fit...lol... didn't want to cut it down again. had hand pumper that was new and used it to try and worked nice.
Ride Safe.
 
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