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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,
im new on here a quick hello to everyone.
can someone tell me does the 99 xvs 1100 have a ring lock nut on the rear suspension unit ? someone told me it should have . i cant see one.:|
 

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Hi Mike, and welcome to the forum. If I understand you correctly you're looking for the adjustment ring on the top of the 1100 rear shock. There should be a spanner tool in the toolkit to adjust it. It's hard to see from just taking the seat off and even harder to get the tool on it. Instructions are in your owners manual - section 3 around page 15 (you can find one online if you don't have yours). I had the plastic guard off behind my AIS pump to do some other things and it was easy to do from there. A tip - lift the rear wheel off the ground - makes it a lot easier to turn the adjuster.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hi thanks for answering.
yep i know that , but someone told me that there should also be a sort of locking collar otherwise it will slowly bounce back to the bottom setting. true or not?
While on the subject..i have adjusted it to #6 still bottoms out when fully loaded but not too much.
I have seen these heavy duty springs on Ebay that apparently you can change with the original spring.
But when i went to loosen the old spring right off, it got to #1 and then wouldnt move any further.
Has anyone ever changed these springs before and how would you go about it, as in the manual it says it cant be changed???
 

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The nut does not have a locking collar. I don't see how it would ever turn on its own. Replacing just the spring probably won't help your situation. Most likely the shock is work as well and adding a stiffer spring won't help the shock issue. Spend the money and replace with a progressive shock & spring. The two come complete as one unit. Most likely others will chime in with the same advise.
 

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Actually, a new spring is probably the most likely best fix. Springs are, by definition, energy absorbers. Spring rate defines how much energy it takes to compress the spring a given amount. A higher rate spring requires a higher force to compress (in this case "bottom out").
NOw, unless you are VERY familiar with compressing springs to replace them (as on strut suspensions) and have the right tools, don't try it yourself, it is extremely dangerous.
Proper disassembly involves compressing the spring, removing the spring keeper, releasing the spring, compressing the new spring and installing, installing the keeper, and releasing the spring.

I sent mine to a shop and for $35 they swap the spring for me
 

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Discussion Starter #7
if i do change the spring i will take it to a special place for that. i worked in light engineering and know what a pig that kind of thing is to do . thanks for the info guys
 

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