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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks, hoping someone with some xvs650 drive assembly experience can help me out. So gear oil was leaking into the shaft coupling where the splines are. I took it apart and noticed the fluid passing what I thought is the oil seal (item 13 on the IPB pic attached). I removed the seal and right behind it was the retainer that holds the balls of the bearing, they dont seem to be enclosed in anything. Just freely moving around. I dont think the retainer should be in pieces like this and I looked in the IPB and do not see that component so I think it is supposed to be part of the bearing (IPB part index 10). The first picture is what it looks like after I removed the seal. The second picture is what I thought was the seal or is it a piece of the bearing? Did the last person who install forget to put the seal in? The third picture shows 1 of about 5 pieces of the retainer, the rest are still inside the housing holding the rest of the ball bearings in place. I have the IPB attached and the final picture is just another view of what I see now inside it. Am i missing something here? It looks to me like I need a new bearing too?

You guys' experience is greatly appreciated.
 

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IF you dont already have it, the Yamaha factory service manual is available online as a free PDF download

there is a procedure in the manual for taking that apart - google Yamaha V Star 650 factory service manual

its usually the first search result

if the bearing is loose or contained that will normally show in the exploding parts drawings

there are also similar part drawing trees on bikebandit.com

how do the splines look? if they are all chewed up that would explain a destroyed bearing and seal

if the PO left out the seal the oil would have streamed out while the bike was running
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info, I will search for the manual now. The bike had been in storage for 4 years. When I bought it it hadnt ran since prestorage. I got it running and took it out and noticed that the gear oil was dripping out of the bored hole im the coupling where the shaft female and male splines connect. My tire was pretty wet with oil, thats what initially got my attention. I have the Clymer service manual and i followed the steps for the removal of the wheel and the splines and gear case but didnt see anything on this part. I tried to see if anyone had anything on youtube either but couldnt find it. Hopefully the manual can give me a picture of what a normal one looks like.

Thanks again.
 

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did you check the level of the hypoid oil in the final drive before you drained it?
 
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Discussion Starter #5
did you check the level of the hypoid oil in the final drive before you drained it?
Not sure what hypoid is but the gear oil was full before its initial voyage but it had very little in it when I drained it. I did not physically check before I drained it but maybe a half a quart or less drained into the pan though. But i feel like what i took out was a seal. It had a spring that was attached to it too. Ive replaced wheel bearing seals before and seen similar springs inside of the grease seals on those. Ive never seen the internals of a ball bearing till now but the roller bearings i have changed do not have springs. I honestly just dont know what im looking at, but i dont think the ball bearing should look like that. I think I am just going to have to order all the parts to be able to identify what part is what.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
IF you dont already have it, the Yamaha factory service manual is available online as a free PDF download

there is a procedure in the manual for taking that apart - google Yamaha V Star 650 factory service manual

its usually the first search result

if the bearing is loose or contained that will normally show in the exploding parts drawings

there are also similar part drawing trees on bikebandit.com

how do the splines look? if they are all chewed up that would explain a destroyed bearing and seal

if the PO left out the seal the oil would have streamed out while the bike was running
Well, i got the manual. It definetly offers the instructions for the bearing removal however it specifically says this is difficult and rarely done. Have you ever done a project like that? Would it be better to just fork over the money and buy a used drive assembly off of ebay?

Thanks for the advice.
 

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Hey folks, hoping someone with some xvs650 drive assembly experience can help me out. So gear oil was leaking into the shaft coupling where the splines are. I took it apart and noticed the fluid passing what I thought is the oil seal (item 13 on the IPB pic attached). I removed the seal and right behind it was the retainer that holds the balls of the bearing, they dont seem to be enclosed in anything. Just freely moving around. I dont think the retainer should be in pieces like this and I looked in the IPB and do not see that component so I think it is supposed to be part of the bearing (IPB part index 10). The first picture is what it looks like after I removed the seal. The second picture is what I thought was the seal or is it a piece of the bearing? Did the last person who install forget to put the seal in? The third picture shows 1 of about 5 pieces of the retainer, the rest are still inside the housing holding the rest of the ball bearings in place. I have the IPB attached and the final picture is just another view of what I see now inside it. Am i missing something here? It looks to me like I need a new bearing too?

You guys' experience is greatly appreciated.
Unfortunately, there is some history on the 650's with the failure of the bearing retainer on the outboard bearing of the pinion shaft. The bearing part number has been changed by Yamaha so they have recognized the failure and made a change to the bearing. It is an open bearing as it is lubricated by the oil in the final drive assembly. The seal is the one you have removed. If the retainer is disintegrating, the metal pieces can get into the pinion/cone gearing and damage those teeth. Those parts are not replaceable... you have to buy a whole new unit. My 650 starting making a strange noise on my last ride before hibernation. After a lot of googling, I found at least a half dozen articles from owners having the same failure I see in yours. I think I have the same failure but its uncommon enough that shops in my area have never done the repair. Heating a disassembled drive unit to 300F to take out bearings and determining new spacer shims was more than I wanted to get into. I figured I pay at least half the cost of a new unit to take it to a shop that has the tools needed for the repair, then worry about it. I just ended up buying a new unit that I will install when warm weather hits to get back on the road. Then I will take my time, tear down and inspect the old unit, see if its worth fixing, then either keep it or sell it. All my splines looked great by the way. My bike is a 2007 with 8000 miles and was never abused. Just a poor bearing for the application and loads. Good luck.
 

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The spring pieces likely came off the seal you have already removed or are a part of the seal numbered as 6. Did you catch any metal parts when you drained the oil from the unit?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Unfortunately, there is some history on the 650's with the failure of the bearing retainer on the outboard bearing of the pinion shaft. The bearing part number has been changed by Yamaha so they have recognized the failure and made a change to the bearing. It is an open bearing as it is lubricated by the oil in the final drive assembly. The seal is the one you have removed. If the retainer is disintegrating, the metal pieces can get into the pinion/cone gearing and damage those teeth. Those parts are not replaceable... you have to buy a whole new unit. My 650 starting making a strange noise on my last ride before hibernation. After a lot of googling, I found at least a half dozen articles from owners having the same failure I see in yours. I think I have the same failure but its uncommon enough that shops in my area have never done the repair. Heating a disassembled drive unit to 300F to take out bearings and determining new spacer shims was more than I wanted to get into. I figured I pay at least half the cost of a new unit to take it to a shop that has the tools needed for the repair, then worry about it. I just ended up buying a new unit that I will install when warm weather hits to get back on the road. Then I will take my time, tear down and inspect the old unit, see if its worth fixing, then either keep it or sell it. All my splines looked great by the way. My bike is a 2007 with 8000 miles and was never abused. Just a poor bearing for the application and loads. Good luck.
DMIL, thanks man!! Great info. Before i by the bearing i will make one attempt to remove it the old one. If that isnt possible looks like im buying a new rear drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, so I got the collar out and am now looking at the bearing directly. The spring on both sides is broken apart in several different places. I took the gear case off from the other side and can see that the pieces could have easily gotten into the gear case. Thankfully no damage to any of the gear teath. From how I read the manual it says to heat the final gearcase. I am going to attempt to use a heat gun to do this but just not sure if it will work. I dont know how to actually pull the bearing out once heated.
 

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From memory, i think that heating is only required for the outer race of the inboard needle bearing on the opposite end of the pinion shaft as it is pressed in. Does that bearing feel rough and need replacement too or are you just being safe because of the broken metal fragments. Make sure you get all those pieces out of the unit. Please read the shop manual carefully as I didnt check it. A repair shop should be able to pull the bearing with failed ball retainer off the pinion shaft. You will need to order the oring seals and grease lip seals if you replace the bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No worries, I was a little confused with the manual. i do think it is referring to the other bearing as you say but when i tried pulling out the broken bearing it wouldnt budge. The way I read the manual it just sounds like the reverse thread coupling comes out then the bearing. I tried to gently pry on the gear to push the bearing out but it still wont budge. The first picture is of how I tried to pull out the bearing. The second is how i tried to pry the gear out.
 

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thanks for the pics. I would expect that the failed bearing has a light inner race press fit on the pinion shaft and light outer race press fit into the final drive housing, so the entire pinion shaft with bearing would have to come out to remove/replace the bearing. And that looks like a bugger to do and the manual isnt much help. I think I would try taking a wooden dowel with soft hammer and tapping in the direction of the pinion shaft where you have the screwdriver. Go lightly.. you dont want to mess up the needle bearing at that end where the screwdriver is shown. I would avoid using anything metal to avoid damaging parts. Keep us posted... I am interested as I think I have the same repair in front of me down the road. Open the attachment from the manual.
 

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Thanks foe the tip. I will try, im going to a buddies sometime this week who has a heat gun. I still think maybe heating up the housing would release either the bearing or race inside for it to come out. The thing is is the manual and the IPB dont show a race to it. And i went to the website below who showed pictures of replacing the rear drive geae with another model drive and there was no mention of removing a race, thats whats throwing me off. But i will keep you posted on what I come up with.

 

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Sounds like you are confused by my comment. The bearing itself is made of an inner and outer race that the bearing balls run in. The bearing and pinion shaft have to be removed from the drive housing as an assembly. Then the bearing can be removed from the shaft which appears to be held in place by a bushing. Maybe this pic will help
91878
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sounds like you are confused by my comment. The bearing itself is made of an inner and outer race that the bearing balls run in. The bearing and pinion shaft have to be removed from the drive housing as an assembly. Then the bearing can be removed from the shaft which appears to be held in place by a bushing. Maybe this pic will help View attachment 91878
Hell yeah!! Yeah that does help. I was confused by the manuals drawing of it but your details clarify. I also just spent 20 minutes banging on the back of the internal part of the bearing or race, the part that is against the shaft (the first pic is of what i was hitting) to try and get it to budge with no luck. I will see what i can do to get the shaft out, but as of now the only thing that seems to be holding the shaft and bearing in it is the bearings outer race. The pinion shaft needle board bearing you highlighted has an internal spline i guess? (Second pic) so i figured if i could hit that it would free it but what little I tried didnt work either. Im back at trying to heat the housing up to get the shaft out and try using something like a ball joint seperator to pry the pinion gear away at the spline, your thoughts?
 

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Hell yeah!! Yeah that does help. I was confused by the manuals drawing of it but your details clarify. I also just spent 20 minutes banging on the back of the internal part of the bearing or race, the part that is against the shaft (the first pic is of what i was hitting) to try and get it to budge with no luck. I will see what i can do to get the shaft out, but as of now the only thing that seems to be holding the shaft and bearing in it is the bearings outer race. The pinion shaft needle board bearing you highlighted has an internal spline i guess? (Second pic) so i figured if i could hit that it would free it but what little I tried didnt work either. Im back at trying to heat the housing up to get the shaft out and try using something like a ball joint seperator to pry the pinion gear away at the spline, your thoughts?
I would be very cautious about striking at the hole access to the needle bearing as you probably cant hit the pinion shaft end but just the needle bearing race...you dont want to damage that. I would try hitting on the flat back shoulder of the driving gear teeth with something soft that wont damage teeth. The needle bearing is likely similar to that for the end of the ring gear shaft which you could see in earlier pics.
 

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I had the same issue on a 2005 650. It was not worth my time or effort, or specific tools IE reverse castle nut. I opted to go the ebay route. I found a guy in colorado that warranties them for 60 days. $300. Give them a call.
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I had the same issue on a 2005 650. It was not worth my time or effort, or specific tools IE reverse castle nut. I opted to go the ebay route. I found a guy in colorado that warranties them for 60 days. $300. Give them a call.
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Thanks for the info man. I was actually able to get it. But I will keep this in mind. For how much im enjoying working on this bike, having a parts guy to go to down the road is helpful
 
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