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In part #1 I went through and described how I modified my rear turn signals and added a tail light circuit for my run-turn-brake project. In this part I’ll describe how I wired everything in for the brake and turn functions. In addition to the run-turn-brake I also wanted to add simple 4-way emergency flashers. While something many bikes don’t come with, I’ve had instances where they have been a nice feature to have.

Before I embarked on this project I sat down and drew up a crude sketch of what I was going to need to do with the wiring. This way I could run it past others to make sure I wasn’t overlooking anything. This also made it easier for me while I was working to stay focused on each part of the circuit. I didn’t want to subject anyone to my chicken scratch on paper so I found an app that let me draw up a schematic/wiring diagram if you will. Be forewarned, this is extremely busy and a bit daunting, but after studying it a while and understanding what everything does it really isn’t that bad. The other thing I want to mention (and this is important) is having this drawn out and taking your time will help reduce frustration and errors. The bike wiring colors are not the same as the tail light converter box. For example the brake light circuit on the Road Star is a yellow wire, but the brake circuit on the tail light convertor is red. So you can see where this can get confusing. So a diagram and patience pays off.

Here’s what I came up with (I’m going to do a part #3 with my electronic cruise so you can disregard the relays at the bottom for this part).



As mentioned in part #1, one of my objectives was to not cut or modify the OEM harness in any way. So I found the terminals from Cycle Terminal for my Road Star and made an adapter harness where all my wiring work takes place. I had an old (still new in the box) trailer light convertor I bought back in the late 90’s for a Toyota pickup I had. It didn’t work as I expected it to and I was advised that I needed a powered trailer light converter. So that’s what is in my schematic (side note: the converter box I had also didn’t work when I tried to put it on my car so it was faulty and led me down a wrong path…..isn’t electrical stuff fun!!)

I decided that I had enough room above the tool kit to put the converter box so I started there. As mentioned in part #1 I’d found a cloth looking heat shrink wire loom product to keep the wires together and look more factory. I ran the wiring along the frame and fastened it with zip ties.



I have a battery tender harness with a fuse for winter storage so I cut and tapped into that for my power source for both the powered trailer converter and the 4-way flashers. On my Road Star the flasher relays and fuses are under the left side cover. There was ample room to add the flasher for the 4-ways along with the necessary relays for my electronic cruise control addition.

In the above picture you can see the flasher for the 4-ways at the very bottom. Power runs directly through it from the fused wire from the battery tender. This allows me to use the 4-ways without having a key in the bike should the need arise. Then it travels through a double pole, single throw switch (if you use a simple single pole switch you’ll need to add diodes to prevent power from back feeding when using your turn signals) and to the left/right turn circuits.

I decided to mount my 4-way switch under the tank on the rear mount. It’s out of the way and barely visible. I used a piece of stainless from an old BBQ grill I had saved for such a project. I cut out a template from a light piece of cardboard to put in place to see what size and shape was needed. I measured the tank bracket and cut the mount 1/4 inch wider so I could put the bracket in a vice and bend over 1/8 inch on each side so the mount wouldn’t swivel on the bolt. Here’s what it looked like.



Here is another picture after the wiring was completed. The yellow/blue/green/etc wires are going into the trailer light converter. You can also see the grayish looking wiring loom going left in the picture. That is going to the 4-way hazzard switch mounted below the tank.



This project was something I’d wanted to do. And while I know there are aftermarket alternatives that do similar things, I wanted to save a few $$ and build something myself. Since I used factory style connectors and left the OEM harness in tact, I could unplug and remove all of this in just a few minutes returning the bike back to it’s stock functionality. Plus I needed to use some of these circuits for the cruise control system so it just made sense to do it all together.
 

· Administrator - "Loose Nut" - Bandera, Texas
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Very nice work and write up. Does the finished product work as you intentioned?
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Very nice work and write up. Does the finished product work as you intentioned?
Yes it does. I posted a video in part #1 demonstrating the operating functions and what I felt was the best bulb in the rear turns for the contrast ratio between run and brake/turn for my bike.

The electronic cruise control is a wonderful addition. I wouldn't even be considering my trip to Texas on the bike had I not added that. :cool:
 

· Administrator - "Loose Nut" - Bandera, Texas
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Yes it does. I posted a video in part #1 demonstrating the operating functions and what I felt was the best bulb in the rear turns for the contrast ratio between run and brake/turn for my bike.
Guess I'm asking if you had to do it all over again, would you change anything. I know in the past some of my projects worked, but with hind sight I would have done it a little different.

The electronic cruise control is a wonderful addition. I wouldn't even be considering my trip to Texas on the bike had I not added that. :cool:
You need to possibly start a thread and elaborate about your trip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Guess I'm asking if you had to do it all over again, would you change anything. I know in the past some of my projects worked, but with hind sight I would have done it a little different.
Actually that's a great question. To be honest, very little which is kind of surprising. I agree once you do something like this you find ways to refine what was done.

Here is a list of things I'd do slightly different and probably will on the '03 Road Star I picked up from this forum.
1) I'd probably see if I could use a non-powered trailer converter to lessen some of the wiring work.
2) I might go ahead and add diodes to each turn circuit coming from the 4-way switch. That way I could use a easier to find single pole, single throw switch. My current switch is pretty cheaply made and sometimes I have to "fiddle" to get everything working right. But hey, it was red and had the hazzard triangle on it so it was hard to pass up! :yessmile:
3) I cut my battery tender lead and put in a bullet connector to gain power for the 4-ways and the powered tail light converter. I think I'd make my own tender fused lead and just solder heat shrink the connection and do away with the bullet connectors.
4) Lastly, I wasn't planning for future mods or add-ons. I recently picked up a Harley tour pack that I'm going to put on my bike. I think I've figured out a way to use a Harley docking system so I can add and remove it without much difficulty. So I wish I'd have added a plug for the lights of the tour pack. So that's something I'm going to go back in and add now.
 

· Administrator - "Loose Nut" - Bandera, Texas
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Where would be a good topic section for such a post? I may have to do that. :cool:
I would put it in the General Vstar section, most riding threads are there.
 
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