[Chuzz]

Hey Guys, been a while since I've been here, but it's been a busy summer. Anyway, I last rode my buddy's 2000 Silverado edition bike about 6 weeks ago and it rode and shifted fine. I tried to ride it a couple of days ago and I can't get it to shift correctly. I take off in first and it won't shift into second gear. When I put my heel on the shift lever, it feels like it's going into 4th or 5th gear. I'm not a motorcycle mechanic, but am an old retired pipe-fitter with years of automotive mechanics experience. Is there a simple clutch adjustment or something I can check on this bike? I talked to my buddy about it and he said not to worry about it, that he'll just take it to a shop when he gets here in December. I'd really like to fix it for him to avoid him going to that expense. I spent several hours straightening out various accessory pieces that were bent on this bike when his wife ditched it back in April. I have it looking pretty good, but can't ride it right now because of the shift problem. Any and all suggestions will be considered and appreciated. I'd still like to get it sold for him before he comes back and sinks more money into it. That way, I can still collect my 10% commission. LOL

 

[KCW]

look at the clutch lever on the handlebar

when you wiggle it with your finger tips there should be about 1/4" of free play, where the lever moves without pulling the clutch cable at all.

If you have no free play then the clutch is not fully engaging when you release it, which will cause the clutch to slip under power (which is not the problem you are having)

If there is a lot of freeplay, an inch or more, the clutch may not be disengaging when you pull it in, which will make the engine still pull on the drive shaft when you try to shift (not letting go) and that will make a motorbike hard to shift - its like you are shifting and not using the clutch at all.

If the bike seems to be shifting from 1st all the way to 4th as you described something else is going on. Look at the shift lever from the toe shifter, see if things look bent or mashed.

The other thing to check is the oil level in the engine - if the case was cracked it possible all the oil leaked out while riding, and the transmission uses the same oil as the engine.

 

[lesblank]

Look at joint labeled 27 and 28. This is a splinded fitting and sometimes it will rotate not allowing correct gear change.

 

[Scrumdown]

Would it be a good idea to change the oil, to see if there is any metal in the oil?
I know the 2000 RS Silverado is a wet clutch, using engine oil.

Ride Smart! Ride Often!

 

[Chuzz]

Thanks for the quick responses, guys. I will check the clutch adjustment and shift lever. I can't check the oil in this bike because I can't get the frigging seat off! I've tried every suggestion I've found hear and on youtube and NOTHING I've tried has worked. John had to take it to a shop last year just to get the oil changed because he couldn't get the seat off either. I've talked to two other guys that ride the same bikes and they both said the seats are a royal pain to get off. Sometimes the release works and sometimes it doesn't. It NEVER had for me and I've tried 30 or 40 times at least. Can I remove the gas tank with the seat on and rig a pin release of some type?

 

[KCW]

if you cant check the oil and you cant find a problem with the linkage on the shifter then dont ride the bike

if there is no oil in the crankcase that would be a cause of transmission shifting problems, and it will also destroy the engine when the oil pump starts sucking air.

 

[Scrumdown]

I have the same year&model. I'll try to look when I get home any suggestions to remove the seat and anything else about the shifter.

Ride Smart! Ride Often!

 

[Chuzz]

The bike starts just fine and there's no signs of any leaks on the garage floor. I won't ride it anymore if I can't get the clutch adjusted. It's really aggravating not being able to get the seat off to check the oil. This looks like an obvious design flaw to me because there are so many youtube videos about it.

 

[Brad_G]

What is your procedure to remove the seat? Might help us to understand. These seats can be a challenge.

I know the first time I took it off I fought it a bit. Now I take it off whenever I clean the bike and it's been easy enough. I twist the key left gently. Don't push down as that works the fork lock mechanism and not the seat release. Then I use the heal of my hand and push down on the front of the seat to release. May do that a couple times while holding the key turned. Maybe take your fist like a hammer and bounce the front of the seat a couple times. Once the seat is off make sure to get some lube on the latch and cable. Work it a little with the seat off so you can watch it. Latch it with your finger and then unlock with the key to make sure it's working smoothly.

Is this a stock seat? I have a Mustang seat. If it's not stock maybe the locking loop on the seat is a bit too short and putting pressure against the latch causing it to be hard to get off. That might require a bit more downward force on the front of the seat to relieve tension.

 

[Chuzz]

Hey Brad, I've tried turning the key counter clockwise and feeling the resistance in it and pulling up the front of the seat. Doesn't work. I've tried pushing down on the seat while turning the key. Doesn't work. I've tried a couple of fist hits while feeling resistance in the key. Doesn't work. It's a Millennia Edition with Silverado accessories, if that makes any difference. It has been pouring down rain all afternoon and I have a doctors appointment tomorrow morning. I HOPE to get to the bike and start trying some of the ideas you guys have presented sometime tomorrow afternoon.

 

[Boots]

Hey Brad, I've tried turning the key counter clockwise and feeling the resistance in it and pulling up the front of the seat. Doesn't work. I've tried pushing down on the seat while turning the key. Doesn't work. I've tried a couple of fist hits while feeling resistance in the key. Doesn't work. It's a Millennia Edition with Silverado accessories, if that makes any difference. It has been pouring down rain all afternoon and I have a doctors appointment tomorrow morning. I HOPE to get to the bike and start trying some of the ideas you guys have presented sometime tomorrow afternoon.

Hey Chuzz, This is a just in case on using the key to get the seat up. It's something that threw me for a loop spending a couple of extra hours on it as this bike is new to me and no one ever explained this to me.

When using the key to turn on the ignition, you naturally push the key down and turn counter-clockwise. To release the seat, you do NOT push down, only turn the key counter-clockwise about a quarter turn or less.

I have a RoadStar Silverado sitting in my side yard that has a tranny problem. My friend had this RoadStar for years and when the tranny decided to give him problems, his wife suggested getting the SVTC he always wanted so without hesitation, the new bike came around and this RoadStar was sitting in his yard. He offered the J&M CB on it to me so it's at my place minus a CB now. I might work on it some to investigate the transmission but holding off on that for now, probably a good winter project. And, the key threw me off for a while since I needed the seat off to get to the CB wiring.

Good luck,

 

[RonK]

--

I can't help with the seat removal if you've already tried turning the key with different pressures and wiggles of the front of the seat simultaneously and no result. What I've done on two R*s is to eliminate the need to use the key at all by putting a wire from the release mechanism under the seat and running it off the the side so I pull on the wire and it releases the locking mechanism. That works every time.

I wouldn't put the seat back on until I've made that change.

--

 

[KCW]

100X thumbs up for RonK

its a known issue on the RoadStar - its not going to fix itself

I like the way the Royal Star is set up

the ignition switch is on the right side of the bike, behind the seat (near the battery where it should be for short wires)

the seat release is a key on the left side below the seat

whenever engineers try to combine multiple functions into one control, its more complicated than it needs to be, and reliability suffers

 

[Chuzz]

Wow! I actually got the seat off today! I checked the oil and there's only about an inch on the dipstick. Should I add some more and if so, what type of oil goes in the 1600? I have some 0w-20 that I use in my car, but don't know if that's too thin or not. It's Mobil 1 full synthetic. What do you guys recommend and what's an acceptable level. This dipstick has a grid pattern on it, but no lines for full or add. What's up with that? Anyway, I checked the clutch play and there's about 1/4" of free play before the lever catches. I can see the shift lever moving freely as well as the clutch lever. Nothing appears to be loose or noticeably damaged. I'm hoping it's just that the oil level is too low. Before I put this seat back on, I think I'll try to hook up a wire release like I've seen on youtube. Unless any of you guys have a video or photos of how you did it. Thanks

 

[Scrumdown]

https://youtu.be/9Z_rt0I5Uas

This guy gives a good explanation on how to change the oil & reading the dipstick.

This picture is from the service manual.

Here is a link to the service manual...
www.werder.ee › ManualPDF
Web results
Yamaha XV1600 A RoadStar 98-03 Service Manual ENG

Ride Smart! Ride Often!

 

[Chuzz]

Thank you Scrumdown. I can see that it takes Yamaha 20w-40. I'm glad I didn't decide to top it off with my Mobil 1.

 

[RonK]

--

As long as there is any amount showing on your dipstick, you are okay. That reservoir holds about 2 quarts so if it's on the stick you know it has at least 1 3/4 quarts over what's in the engine.

What everyone will tell you that's changed oil is to only fill with 4 quarts after an oil and filter both, being replaced. These engines will spray out any more oil than that into the breather line. To drain when changing, drain from the tank and engine and filter. Add only 2 quarts to tank, replace dipstick, start engine for 30 seconds, remove dipstick, then add last 2 quarts, replace dipstick. Unless you have a leak somewhere, you won't burn any oil before the next change.

--

 

[Chuzz]

I'm not going to change the oil, RonK, I'm just going to top it off. Apparently when Cathy ran it into the ditch it leaked some out while it was lying there for a while. The oil that's in it is very clean, so it wasn't ridden much after John had it serviced. I just don't understand why it shifted fine for a while but doesn't want to now. I'll find out if it's the oil level or something else tomorrow. While I have the seat off, I'm going to take the latch loose and give it a good cleaning and lube it. I'll bet it hasn't been done since the bike was new and it's now 20 years old.

 

[RonK]

--

The oil level being only part way up the stick does not mean you are short of oil. But you can go ahead and add some if it will make you feel better. That small amount has no effect on your gears, your shifting, or your engine. If some leaked out prior to tipping over, then it may have had too much oil in it.

--

 

[Chuzz]

Well, as RonK predicted, the addition of the oil didn't help at all. BUT, I do have the seat latch working better now and found a couple of bad connectors on the battery cables and ground wires. So, I cleaned them up and replaced a broken connector on the inline fuse off the hot post on the battery. I still can't get the sucker to give me more than 2 gears and am done fooling with it. John said to leave it alone and he'll take it to the shop when he gets here. I can't ride it for now, but have reached the point that I don't care. Now, I'll dedicate my time to my transferring my mini bike to a larger engine. It has a 3 hp chinese engine on it and I'm taking a 7.8 hp Generac engine and putting it on. I have new tires on it along with a new throttle and am just waiting on my 3/4" 12 tooth clutch kit to come in. I won't be able to keep up with the Road Star, but I'll still have fun!