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Discussion Starter #1
I'm currently riding a 650 and i'm thinking about upgrading to the 950, but i live near the snake and enjoy getting really low in those turns..and even occasionally scrape my boards on my bike, and form what I've heard there's not many people are there who care to lean in enough to scrape on the 650's high boards(for a cruiser.) i'm 6'2 and as you can imagine the 650 feels a little cramped, but i love the sporty feeling of how it powers through the turns and keeping up with the terrible riders on their sport bike(which i refuse to have.) but with age comes maturity and so does slowing down and getting a bigger bike...I've done plenty of research and seen some posts on here about reviews about the 950, how nice they are etc..and for my budget a used 950 is the top of the bracket. I've heard all i need to hear except for one simple question...and its really the deal breaker. Living in east TN i don't ride the interstate much and prefer the back roads, and as mentioned with my aggressive riding i scrape boards on my 650, if i get the 950, with its notorious reputation for its scraping(I AM FULLY AWARE THE SKID PLATES CAN BE CHANGED), how much would the bike hinder my riding style? no one seems to have ever measured the lean angle on a 950, and the ground clearance is only .4 inches lower on the 950 than the 650, but the 950 is wider causing much less lean...how bad is it? i know im going to have to slow down but i don't want to set my speed to a crawl to not scrape. is there anyone who's owned both bikes and put them to quite the cornering test?
 

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if you don't like the sound of scraping, don't get the 950. if it doesn't bother you, then get one. the 950 doesn't inhibit your lean angle, it just gives an audible alert when you've reached a certain angle that most other bikes don't give. and you'd have quite a challenge to wear out the floorboard plates enough to necessitate changing them. mine is lowered 2.25" inches and i scrape with nearly every turn or lean and i still have plenty of metal left after 7yrs/70k miles.

 

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Josh, the 950 isn't going to inhibit your lean angle or cornering. I went from an 07' 650 classic to an 09' 950 tourer. No difference to me in the cornering or lean angle. I don't ride real aggressively and love the difference in performance. Go take one for a test drive, I think you'll see what I mean. Keep us updated.


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Discussion Starter #4
Well i'm looking at a nice 950, but i didn't have cash in hand at the time and thus didn't test ride, but even they guy who owns it now mentioned if i didn't like scraping this wasn't the bike i'm looking for. i don't mind scraping, and i wouldn't mind at all if they were cheaply made and had to replace the sliders every year, some people make it sound like its really really bad with scraping, and if its just going to scrape on every turn, then i mind as well look for something with more angle available, but if you can lower it over 2 inches and still be okay, i think i can handle stock height. its got lindby multibars on it, should it worry about those scraping soon after i can hear the boards? or are they tucked in enough i could scrape the boards pretty well and not touch them?
 

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They should be tucked in well enough not to worry about. Those who complain about the 950 scraping a lot would appear to be fairly aggressive riders in my opinion and experience from owing one. I've banked some corners riding two up and didn't have any issues.


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They should be tucked in well enough not to worry about. Those who complain about the 950 scraping a lot would appear to be fairly aggressive riders in my opinion and experience from owing one. I've banked some corners riding two up and didn't have any issues.

I totally agree Keith. I ride a 950 every day and only scrape if I'm riding really aggressive. The only two times I scraped 2up was on some serious mountain twisties and on a tight on-ramp. I may lower mine like Bevo did and imagine I would scrape pretty often then.


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On my 950 I scraped a couple times in the 11,000 miles that I put on her. Both times were when the road I was on had a reverse slope and I was overly aggressive. I weigh in at 166 lbs and the bike suspension was at factory setting. Of the four Yamahas I've owned (250, 650, 950, & 1300), I drug my heels on the 250 more than any other.

Augie
 

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Discussion Starter #9
so here's the one im looking at, its got tons atlest $2500 retail in mods on it, and hes only asking $4500 for the bike. although id be throwing some viking bags on it as soon as i got it

 

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check the drive belt alignment and listen for any odd sounds coming from the transmission drive pulley or behind that pulley, because that is where the countershaft bearing is, most 950s i'v looked have the drive belt off to one side on one or both the pulleys indicating misalignment which puts a side load on the countershaft bearing eventually destroying it, if the belt looks right and you like the bike you should get it. i'v haven't seen many 950 tourers under 4,000 dollars that weren't wrecked, so even if you sell it later on you should still get at least 4 grand for it, so really you can't lose more than a few hundred on that bike
 

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gee i wonder who told you that, dealers and manufacturers always try to cover up defects with the line " it's normal for this bike" to do such and such, i worked at dealerships and they never admit to defects until the manufacturer does so first, but on the side i would tell the owner exactly what was what and then say " you didn't hear that from me " if a belt is riding at the edge of a pulley there no way tell if there is a side load on said pulley. until the belt shred's or the bearing fails.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
do you have a link with more details on that? ill have to check that....so far i trust the guy. I looked at this shadow once and told him i was new to motorcycles(which i lied about) and he fed me BS one side up the mountain and down the other lol he even told me the tires were new when i could clearly tell they were bald. but the guy with the 950 sounds pretty trustworthy. He pointed out the flaws i didnt even notice, and meantioned something about how everyone reports the manufactures belt tightness is very slightly too tight, so he's got it like 3/4 lbs more loose than manufacture specs or something like that, i dont remember exactly what he said, but so far everything that i know what he's talking about has been true. also its actually not the tourer model, he bought the seat and the windsheild after he bought the bike new...not sure why. but i checked the vin as well, and he still has the stock seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
gee i wonder who told you that, dealers and manufacturers always try to cover up defects with the line " it's normal for this bike" to do such and such, i worked at dealerships and they never admit to defects until the manufacturer does so first, but on the side i would tell the owner exactly what was what and then say " you didn't hear that from me " if a belt is riding at the edge of a pulley there no way tell if there is a side load on said pulley. until the belt shred's or the bearing fails.
cant blame you for trying lol thanks for the help anyways, its always nice to know what to look for when you buy a new bike, especially when the experienced riders of that bike tell you. i could tell you everything you should look for and hear on a 650 but the 950 is so different im left clueless
 

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there's a few post's on other forums about countershaft bearings failing on the 950 from pulley misalignment there may even be an older post on this forum about it, loosening the belt will definitely relieve a lateral load on cocked pulley, i believe most of em that failed started getting a clunking sound behind the front drive pulley at between 15 and 20K miles, the back pulley on most if not all 950s rides at the outside edge of the rear pulley but that not the one to be looking at, its the drive pulley at the engine, look to see if the belt is even all the way around. if it isn't then the engine is cocked in the frame, you can adjust the rear wheel to be slightly cocked to make the belt track even but only up to a certain point or handling will suffer, just use a good flash light and mirror to see that front drive pulley, if the belt looks pretty even your probably ok. the problem seems to be limited to just the tourer i haven't seen anything about this problem on the bolt..... yet , if the bike was running on lift you'd be able to see if the pulleys were off by looking at the belt on the small drive pulley sliding back and forth along the pulley, the back one spins to slow to see a belt wobble
 

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He pointed out the flaws i didnt even notice, and meantioned something about how everyone reports the manufactures belt tightness is very slightly too tight, so he's got it like 3/4 lbs more loose than manufacture specs or something like that,
The standard for belt tension is 10 lbs pressure to deflect the belt 5 mm. I'm not sure how only using 9 1/4 lbs of pressure would work. Need some mathematical analysis there. Hmm? :confused:

My experience with my 950 dictates that a careful inspection of the front pulley for signs of reddish brown dust would be prudent, one indicator of a loose drive pulley nut and spline wear on the counter shaft or pulley. Augie
 

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anytime i see an indications of a loose pulley i'll take the holding nut or bolt out completely so i can see if the shaft is too far through the pulley, because if it is all the tightening in the world won't hold the pulley tight.
 

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anytime i see an indications of a loose pulley i'll take the holding nut or bolt out completely so i can see if the shaft is too far through the pulley, because if it is all the tightening in the world won't hold the pulley tight.
So are you saying that the counter shaft engagement area could be too long, either from movement or poor design? If that is the case, would you use shims of some kind or replace the counter shaft?

Using of a Belleville washer on the counter shaft as Yamaha has done, should take up some slack. You are correct. If the nut bottoms out before compressing the Belleville washer on the counter shaft, you're hosed.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
not sure if he told me 3/4 or something else but he mentioned something about slightly reliving pressure, this guy sounds like he's done his homework. he did say though that it was causing the countershaft bearing to fail, and he said he adjusted it at about 3k when he did the first non break in oil change. the bike only has 4900 on it at the moment
 
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